The fuel pump is in the tank (you probably knew that already, my apologies), however, the process is a little involved. I just completed this job on my 2001 Grand Marquis last week and the following is a synopsis of the procedure.
Before beginning, siphon out as much fuel as possible. My hose was not long enough to reach into the tank, so I disconnected the fuel lines, attached the siphon to one of the lines and pumped it dry.
I did this job with the back of the car supported on vehicle ramps (and got the car up there without starting it-creative jacking helped out a lot)
1. open the fuel door, and remove the 4 bolts around the outer edge of the fuel spout opening.
2. On the back side of the same area, there will be 4 more holding the grommet to the body of the car.
3. Check your vapor lines that are connected to the fuel filler neck, and disconnect if you need to (I had to in order to get the tank out without ripping them)
4. Disconnect the Fuel filler neck mount bracket
5. Disconnect the fuel lines from the tank (if not done already) you will need disconnect tools.
6. Follow the electrical cable for the pump up into the chassis and disconnect it from the plug.
7. Place a floor jack under the fuel tank and raise the jack to secure (not crush) the tank.
8. Using a ratchet and plenty of extensions to get to the fuel tank straps. make sure the jack is able to support the tank before you start to loosen the studs. (I sprayed WD-40 on the nuts first thing in the morning and again about an hour before beginning to assist in the removal)
9. The first strap will come out ok, possibly with a loud pop noise.Move to the second strap and remove the nut holding it on. The second will make a loud pop and the tank will now be able to move about.
10. Before dropping the tank, remove the straps by working them around the parts, and using a nail, push the retaining pin out through the hole in the side of the strap mount.
11. With the straps completely out, use the floor jack to slowly start lowering. Drop it a few inches and begin to look for odd connectors and bits on the top of the tank. There will be some there to include more vapor lines. Disconnect the electrical plug and continue to lower the tank.
12. On the top of the tank there will be a few more vapor lines that are mix of pressure fit lines and some heat shrink lines. disconnect the pressure fit lines (they should feel more like rubber, and not shiny hard plastic)
13. The vapor valve on the top of the tank has heat shrink tube holding it in. I broke my valve trying to disconnect the hose. Don't do this. A new valve will cost about 100 bucks. Instead, pry out the valve from the tank, gently work it from the sides, it will come out of the rubber gasket (WD-40 will assist in this as well).
14. With the lines disconnected and electricals disconnected, the tank will come out easily enough. drop it down, lift it off the jack, and begin working it toward the back of the car to get it out. It is a 26 pound tank by itself, this is why siphoning the fuel will make the job so much easier.
15. Once out, the fuel pump is removed by taking out the bolts holding the fuel pump assembly in the tank. Once all are out, the unit pulls out, give special attention to not damage the float for the fuel level indicator. The fuel pump is mounted on that assembly and is pretty intuitive for removal/install.
16. THE HIDDEN MISERY FORD DOES NOT TELL YOU is that when you reinstall everything, your straps will seem "too short". This is due to the fact that the bolts that you would tighten the straps to are designed with a perforation. once they are installed, the last 1/4-1/2 inch are broken off after the straps are torqued down. The new bolts cost about 31 dollars a piece. (I went to Lowe's, bought a 3/16 x 16 threaded bar and cut it about 3/8 of an inch longer than the studs you will remove from the car. (a double nut extraction will work, again WD-40 will work wonders on the extraction). I used a grinder to shape my new $1.33 stud to OEM design, using JB weld to block the threads at the same location the OEM threads are separated. New studs fit right in, and the JB weld gave it something to bite into making it tight (also used loctite of course). With the new studs, the tank bolted right up, tightened in and stayed on. Took a 280 mile trip through the mountains in california and the tank is still there, no issues.
Dec 08, 2013 |