I have a really old Roper gas oven. It has a spark ignitor. The range works fine, but when I try to use the oven it just keeps clicking. It is sparking down below, and so I tried manually lighting the pilot. The pilot stays lit, but it won't light the rest of the panel to heat up the oven/broiler. What do I need to do?
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This is what I would do: I would unplug the range and connect my test cord to your range cord. I use an ammeter along with my test cord to read the amp draw of the bake ignitor. If it cannot get above 3.5 amps I know the ignitor is bad or weak. Since the oven is working that means there is a good circuit. In order for the safety bi-metal to open the amp draw must reach 3.5 amps or better. So to me I am thinking bad ignitor. To get to it I remove the door oven racks and bottom, I then remove the flame spreader and unplug the quick connect to the ignitor. I remove the burner and ignitor and replace the ignitor on a work bench. I am too old to be bending over and trying to do any parts replacement inside an oven. LOL. I have a training film which shows how the silicone carbide ignitor works HERE. Post a model number and I may have a service manual, do not forget to rate the answer.
Well there are other parts that control the igniter,but if you can remove the igniter and look for any cracks.Most are hard to find so you may need a magnifying glass.Any crack no matter how small will keep it from glowing.The gas will not flow until the photo senser has detected the igniter glowing for several seconds.You can get a parts breakdown at SearsPartsDirect.com.Well hope this helps.
Sounds like you need an bake element ignitor if the bake doesn't work but if the broil also doesn't work, it could be the electronic clock/timer control. the part number for the bake ignitor is 8054129 .Best off to call a reliable service company such as Sears.
If it takes more than 2 minutes to light then that ignitor is weak. It should be very bright. It has to draw 3.5 amps to open the valve. The valve is good because the ignitor is working the oven control is good, all it can be is a weak ignitor. It should draw 3.5 amps or have measure 37 ohms.
First look to see if the ignitor is coming on. Most common problem is the ignitor is weak or just bad. When the power is applied to the ignitor it glows and builds up resistance to open the gas valve then it lights. If the ignitor is weak or bad it will not build up enough resistance for gas to come into the burner. One sign of this would be a "woosh" sound when it trys to light. If the ignitor is coming on but not lighting it is most likely the ignitor is bad. Should have a full glow. Also, if the ignitor looks whiteish in color this is a sign of it going bad. You can compare to the broil ignitor to be sure. If the ignitor doesn't come on at all will need to see if you have power to the ignitor. Let me know what you find and let's solve it before you rate the solution.
If there is no spark at all then the circut is not being completed. The main problem that I had was that there was no ignition even though there WAS a spark and gas. I cleaned out the small pin hole sized inlet on the gas valve with a needle. This allowed the gas to enter the feeder and distribute the gas towards the ignition spark properly.
Also it is very important that the range be level. If there is a pitch to the range the gas may be exiting the distribution cap improperly resulting in improper distribution!