Question about Sherwood RD-6500 Receiver
Bought a Sherwood RD-8601 receiver and have problems with it kicking out instantly. Noticed speaker outputs indicate "6 ohms". I have remnants of an old KLH A/V speaker set and 4 advent satellite speakers. I have measured the them with the following results .... my RF,LF,RR,LR and CTR are 8 ohm speakers. The sub woofer has 2 channels, each with its own 4 ohm driver and is driven by the same receiver outputs that drive each front speaker through a cross-over(or some kind of circuit) in the sub. I believe this was the original sub-woofer setup and is still used when there are not sub-woofer outputs on the receiver being used.The sub-woofer appears to look like 4 ohms to the receiver. I can't see the 8 ohm load causing the receiver to kick out as there would be less current generated (than 6 ohms) so if the speakers are causing a kick-out the 4 ohms on the sub must be doing it. I feel if I change the sub-woofer drivers to 8 ohm I may solve the problem and would like any input on whether this is a good idea. I hate to buy a whole new speaker set for nothing and have my eyeball on 2 nice KEF 8 ohm drivers that will fit perfectly in the sub-woofer box. Thanks for any input.
I assume you have no sub-out, or even if you do, you are not using it. The type of subwoofer you are mentioning is very old, but still useful. I'm going to take a guess that you have the subwoofer connected to the same speaker terminals as another speaker. With your 4ohm load from the sub, connected with another speaker, the load your amplifier is seeing is now less than 4ohms. With these old subs, you run the speaker outputs from the left(or front left) to the sub where is says from amp. There will be another set of connections that say satellite(or to speakers). In this configuration, your amp will see only the impedance of those front speakers. Try this ASAP, before you blow your amp up. If you require more assistance, please visit my website at audioserviceclinic.com. Thank you.
Posted on Dec 20, 2014
On page 6 of the manual it states you should use a powered subwoofer and the unit provides a sub output on the rear panel for it. The message from the amp kicking out is that you're not going to get away with your workaround.
I would advise you to purchase a nice amplifier (2-channel bridgeable or single channel) for the subwoofer. That way you'd be sending only LFE signals and your receiver has provisions for adjusting its volume relative to the rest of the channels. I use a nice 5-channel Carver for my 3 subs and both Rear Surrounds.
On eBay I see what I would get if I were you - a Carver M-200T (120W x2; 300W bridged). I have one.
Posted on Apr 04, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Generally speaking, an amp protects itself from heat, shorts and overloads.
Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.
You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.
If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.
If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced hands-on tech.
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