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Sorry no diagram. But here is how it works. In the start position(Power) the wire goes to the start fuse, from the fuse it goes to the clutch pedal switch. Push the pedal and it goes to the starter relay. On the other end is ground. If it is good it pulls the relay closed. On the closed end is battery power to the starter.
It's easy put new master cylinder in place but don't connect rod to clutch pedal or bolt it to bulk head and leave metal solace feed pipe undone , connect fluid feed pipe to cylinder then tilt cylinder so slsve out let faces more down wards then top up fluid pot when fluid runs out slave outlet reconnect slave pipe , bolts master cylinder back in place and connect pedal to it , then undo nipple on slave cylinder let fluid run out freely titghten niplle then pump clutch pedal until it becomes firm job done .
15 minute job .
go to the wreckers and get all the parts out of a manual cab the same as yours . You will need a clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder as well as the piping from one to the other ( get new master/ slave cylinder as it will reduce the possibility of hydraulic problems . If it is going to be a cable clutch then get everything associated with a cable including the correct throw out lever in the bell housing.
It's leaking on the driver's side? That would be the master cylinder bolted onto the firewall. You will have to replace with a new or remanufactured clutch master cylinder. When the seals go out, the whole unit must be rebuilt. The store will give you a discount if you bring in your old one for exchange. The clutch slave cylinder will be down on the transmission bell housing. Follow the small steel line from the master cylinder. It goes right to the slave cylinder. Pretty easy to change out the master cylinder. Remove the steel line, unbolt unit from the firewall, then under the dash, there's a rod from the clutch pedal to the master cylinder. Just undo the retaining clip or pin holding the rod to the pedal. When the new unit is installed and filled with fluid, then you get to learn how to bleed the hydraulic clutch at the slave cylinder-the fun never stops.
your clutch will not engage when the piston is pushed in fully, you
probably have air in the slave, the line , or the master cylinder. Place a
piece of plastic and an old towel over the bike to catch any drips.
Remove the top master cylinder cover and take an old, clean, lint free, cotton sock and gently soak up all the old brake fluid in the master reservoir. Place the sock into a used zip lock bag and discard. DO NOT touch the clutch/brake lever or you will draw air onto the system. Now fill the reservoir with DOT 3/4
brake fluid and bleed the slave cylinder. Warning: be careful not to
spill DOT Brake fluid on your paint or plastic.
Place a tube on the bleeder screw (slave cylinder) and loosen the
bleeder screw. now pump the lever to push the air out of the system.
Hint: if you do not have pressure in the master, loosen the brake hose
banjo bolt enough to burp the air out of the master(2 or 3 pumps of the lever). Retighten the banjo
bolt and bleed the rest of the system. Bleeding the system
should restore clutch performance. If you notice fluid leaking from the
master or slave cylinder , replace the o-rings in the slave cylinder
piston and rebuild the master cylinder. A master cylinder kit and slave
cylinder o-rings are available at your local Honda dealer.
FIRST REMOVE ALL OLD FLUID FROM CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER YOU CAN USE A SIPHON YOU HAND PUMP.AUTO PARTS STORES SELLS THE HAND PUMP SIPHONS. THEY DONT COST MUCH AND KEEP FROM MAKING A MESS.SIPHON OUT MUCH AS YOU CAN THE OLD FLUID IN THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER.THEN POUR IN THE NEW FLUID DOT 3 BRAKE FLUID IN CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER.OKAY YOU NEED A HELPER.LOCATE THE SLAVE CYLINDER.REMOVE SLAVE CYLINDER HOLD SLAVE CYLINDER 45 DEGREES WITH BLEEDER SCREW LOCATED AT THE HIGHEST POINT.HAVE A SMALL DRAIN PAN UNDER SLAVE CYLINDER.HAVE HELPER FULLY DEPRESS AND HOLD THE CLUTCH PEDAL THEN OPEN BLEED SCREW.CLOSE THE BLEED SCREW AND HAVE HELPER RELEASE THE CLUTCH PEDAL.REPEAT THIS PROCESS UNTIL ALL THE OLD BRAKE FLUID AND AIR BUBBLES LEAVES THE HYDRALIC SYSTEM AND WHEN YOU CAN SEE GOOD STREAM CLEAN FLUID NO BUBBLES YOU HAVE GOOD SOLID CLUTCH ALL IS GOOD.MAKE SURE THROUGH THE BLEEDING PROCESS YOU DONT LET CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY OR YOU WILL HAVE TO START OVER.KEEP CLUTCH MASTER CYLINER FULL BRAKE FLUID WHILE DOING THE WHOLE BLEEDING AND FLUSHING PROCESS.
You mean brake fluid?? There should be nothing in between the master and slave, unless you have a switch of some sort, but being that old, I doubt it. I really don't understand your question, but hope this helps.
This is not a bleeder hole, this is a weep hole like in a water pump to see when there is seepage past the seals.
Bench bleed the system. With the master cyl. line and slave cyl assembled, place the master cylinder in a vise, fill the master cyllinder. actuate the slave cylinder back and forth lower than the master cyl. This will allow the air to escape upwards back into and out of the master cyl.
Once bled the system can be installed.