Constast cycling sound from my stereo onlt its intermitent
Can any one tell me why even with the power off my stereo is making a wierd like almost cycling noise.slickslickslcikslickslickslickslicklsick. I have cheked the wires and the amp and batt. the only way i have been able to make it stop is by un plugging the door speaker wires from the amp.
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Re: Constast cycling sound from my stereo onlt its...
If the other speakers play after the door speaker wires are disconnected, the problem is likely a speaker wire shorted to the door. If the vehicle had OEM amps and you didn't bypass them, that could also be a problem.
Disconnect the door speaker wires from the amp and check for continuity from the speaker wires to ground. There should be none. Also check the resistance across the speaker wires. They should read approximately the same as the rated impedance of the speakers.
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Your not getting enough power to your amp and this will damage them for
sure! Also your amp needs to have it's own separate wire that goes directly from your battery to the amp! If you run your power wire for your amp any other way you are asking for major electrical problems. You need to have a piece of 8 Ga. wire running from your battery
all the way to your amp, also need to have a very good ground very
clean and making contact fully through another piece of wire the same
size as the + wire from your battery! This is so important that you do
this simply because if the wire is too small it will get hot from the
current draw by your amps that it will eventually melt the jacket off of
the wire and short out or even catch on fire! That sound your hearing
is the amps cycling through power up and shutting down since they need
12 Volts of constant voltage and a constant source of current flowing
through the wire it will start to power up but once both amps draw from
the wire they loose the power needed to stay working, then they do it
again, etc... Rewire your amps with large enough wire or if you are
using the correct wire then I would suggest checking your battery and
then your alternator for problems of under voltage. Hope this helps,
always make sure to place a fuse in line from you battery + terminal no
further than 18" from the connection to you battery and use a fuse that
is rated for the WIRE being used. Your trying to keep the wire from
burning up that's all that the fuse is for. The fuses on the amps are to
keep your amps from burning up they are not protecting that wire at
sure if you have a big enough power supply to keep it running! Your looking at either a car battery that will need to be constantly charged up or buying a power supply that will cost way more than any regular house amplfer wiill ever cost you unless iit's super hgh end. (I have a bad I key on my keyboard sorry about that.) The power supply needed for a car amp will have to be able to put out between 11.5 to 15.0 Volts constantly and supply a constant current or Amp ratiing between 25A to 150A to keep the amp from frying depending on how big of an amp you're talking about. A 14.4 volt 25A power supply can power a Class AB amplfer that has a total output of 250 Watts, Thats like equal to 3 regular Battery Chargers working together at full output! They wouldn't last very long if even be able to do kit for more than 1 hour before melting or shutting down. So as you see a power supply to power car amps will have to be rated very high even for a small wattage amplfer. You get up near 1000 watts and you'll go broke trying to buy a power supply that can keep it runnng, they are not cheap by any means, I cannot even imagiine what a 14.4 Volt constant 100 amp 100% duty cycle output power supply would cost, my guess would be between $500 to $1000. Even a typical stick welder s limted to around 30 Volts 30 Amps and 30% duty cycle drawing from 220 volts! They arn't cheap and what you would need has to be way better than that. So, yes, you can but how much is it worth to you to do it safely? That's why they make home stereos.
you sound like you have a loose wire if your using the stock head unit you must of had to conn.alot of wire go back through follow from the head unit.If I were you get a audio control x-over.it will kick up the pre amp power.
There is a short or wires are touching, Then again it could be because the remote(Blue wire) From amp to stereo which tells it to turn on and off has been connected to the wrong wire and is not working effectively.
Check for any shorts check all wires from both ends it shouldn't take long and make sure no wires are even slightly touching.
If it's an aftermarket stereo, there's a small blue wire (accessory/antenna) that goes to the amp. So in essence, you have the large cable going to the battery that powers the amp. However, the small power wire going into the amp tells it when to turn on, by the stereo.
It sounds like you are drawing to many amps and you need to go to a higher capacity altinator and a second battery would be a good idea as well. Start your car (do it at night makes it easier to tell) turn on your headlights without your stereo on look at head lights and see how bright they are then slowly turn stereo on and up if headlights dim you are drawing to many amps and need a higher capacity alt to charge and stop you from blowing them, and second battery with and isolator so you don't draw amps from the battery that starts your car.
Check the main amp fuse under the hood, even if it looks good just change it. Often times that light on the amp can come on just from the power amp tunon wire. Try a friends subwoofer box just to make sure the connectors on your box are good, and if that doesn't work then give me some more details....year/make/model of car, what kind of sub, what types of things do you see on the side of the amp....is there a green light as well as a red light?