We are trying to fit coving into the last corner of a room that is not completely square so the 45 degree angle is not right - what do we do? Please help we are on our last strip of coving and very desperate!!!!! thanks for your help tracy
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Re: how to fit coving on an unsquare room
You could cut A Fine Slice Of Coving, to the Missing Shape ( wedged Et,c )
Slide it in With A little Coving Adhesive, wipe the surpluss Adhesive, And you,ll never notice once it,s Painted.
Or you can fill it with polyfiller or Similar, and ripple it to look like the Covings finish.
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the slide can be angled by the degree plate where the timber sits
the blade can be angled by the degree plate on the arm that mounts the saw
so you can get a 45 degree to the timber length and a 45 degree angle cut to that angle to give you a corner mitre cut
Picture frames are very easy to make, but many people make the same very basic mistake that will ruin your frame. It is very important that you follow the carpenters rule of measure twice and cut once. If you don't cut the sides of the frame to be the same length, and you cut the angles of the corners slightly off then when you put it together the final corner won't line up.
The things that you are going to need is a miter saw, some clamps, a backer board and a drafting squares to make sure you have the right angle.
To set up take your backer board and cut off a piece that's around 4 inches to be used as a sliding marker gauge. After cutting it off attach a small piece of wood to keep the slider from shifting around.
With the saw unplugged and turned off clamp the backer board to the back of the saw. To cut the corners of the a frame you need to set the saw to a 45 degree angle. Make sure to check the angle using a drafting square align one side with the backer board and bring down the saw blade align them to make sure its a 45 degree angle. When you think that its right grab yourself a piece of scrap wood and make an initial cut. After cutting the test measure the angle to make sure that it is the right angle.
When you are ready to cut the frame itself take the four pieces of the frame and make an initial cut. Once all the boards have been cut once take your slider marker to the length that you want the sides of the frame to be and clamp it in. Take the first two sides and one at a time line it up with the backer board with the angle on the outside and the cut point against the slider. Turn on the saw and cut the other end. Repeat these steps to cut the other three sides.
After all the sides have been cut use a 90 degree angle to align the corners of the frame. Lay out all the sides of the frame and line them up as tight as you can. To connect them you can use a staple gun to staple the corners together. If you were aligning it and pushing the sides together when you stapled the corners you should have perfectly aligned corners.
Now all that's left is to sand it down and get the inside ready for a picture and stain it if you want.
using a set square , The angle if 45 degrees is machined into the handle draw a line at 45 degrees across the surface you wish to mitre cut
clamp a piece of timber along that line and use it as a guide to cut with the circular saw
hey not sure what the d51822 brand name is I work on bostitch as a service tech. so well the obvious question with the details you've given 45 degree angle? so are they bent over to get that angle? not sure how they can come out straight and get bent. ok the nose ( where the nail comes out) is it completely flat on the board? if so I would be nearly impossible to create a 45 angle. not doubting you. I work on F28WW bostitch thinking they are similar so, check the bolts on the top (loose or damaged) or the nose its self see if it is bent. it would be only slight because otherwise the driver ( what pushes the nail in) would get jammed and not fire at all .try that first thinking the nose is bent and if its bent its junk. because cracks are next and that's when really bad things happen fast.
It's generally easiest not to figure them at all - prop them in their intended position (although usually upside-down) to make the cut. Doing that eliminates any need for a compound miter saw. That assumes you're talking about crown molding. If you just want the angles for flat moldings, then remember that a square corner equals 90 degrees. Split that corner in half to make a miter joint, and you'll want 45 degrees. If you're making a half-round corner with three pieces, split the 90 degrees by three (the number of pieces) and you get 30 degrees each.
It does get a little more complicated if you're meeting one thickness molding with a completely different thickness molding - then sometimes the easiest thing to do is not miter at all, but make a "coped joint".
Make sure the blade is 90 deg vertical to the saw table. Make sure the indicator is set approprately. Raise the blade just enough to clear the table/base. Place a swanson speed square against the fence and blade. Make sure the indicator is at 90 degrees. Here you might want to tilt the square and check that the complete blade is flush against the sqaure as high up as possible. Lay the square back flat on the table and pull the blade toward you as much as possible. The teeth on the blade should ride against the square extented completely out.
Now set the square against the fence with the 45 degree angle coming away from the table and set the blade on the 45 deg mark on the insicator scale.
The blade should touch the square all the way out fully extented.
first cut a peice at 45 degrees and place it on the corner you are working on,now cut another piece (scrap peice) at 45 degrees.Now if the are not a tight fit then you will have to recut the second peice to a differant degree,per say47 dgree and then refit the peice to see if its a tighter fit,may have to do this several times to get the right degree for tight fit.Not many walls and corners in housesare true 90 degrees.Must have pateince for this type of work.
When using the gauge on your saw it is off on the 45 degree cut? If so you might have to use a tri Square every time you want to cut a 45. Sometimes the lock gauge for the 45 angle may be off some. When you put a tri square on the board you cut it is not a true 45 even though the saw says it is?
They make pipe benders for you application. They are quite inexpensive. If you want to do it your self you can. Remember the total number of degrees you want is 90. Each cut is half the angle. Example 45+45=90. 30+30+30=90. and so forth.
I don't know your application but they sell larger radias 90 degree rigid conduit elbows at Home Depot or Lowes.
Not my brilliance I'm afraid, but found the answer on another website, have copied in below - it does work!
It is very complicated to explain but i'll try as best as I can. 1- First make a small square in the top left corner.(This is the only one that isn't at 45 degrees)
2- Next go to the far bottom left corner and make a small 45 degree (lop sided) square leaving only one peg in the middle.
3- Copy the same thing as you did for the 2nd square but this time in the far top right corner.
4- Use the peg that is in the centre of the square in the bottom left corner(2) and draw a line to the peg on the far right at the very bottom. Then draw a line to the middle peg on the far right. Then draw a line to the peg that is on the 2nd row from the top and 3 columns in from the left. Then complete the square connecting up the other side.
5- Start from the peg that is on the very far right that is free and connect it to the peg that is free at the very bottom. Then connect that to the peg that is free on the far left. Then connect it to the peg at the very top (out of the 2 that are free) on the right. Then complete the square.
6- At the very top start at the free peg and connect it to the free peg on the right that is in the centre of the small 45 degree square. Then connect this to the free peg in the centre of 4 other free pegs. Then connect that to the free peg that is furthest to the left and then complete that square.
7- As there are only 4 pegs left this should be easy to see a small 45 degree square. Hope this helps and didn't confuse you too much.