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How far does your knowledge go with ignition system diagnostics? Do you own a test light and a multimeter? You will need to start at the spark plugs and move towards the distributor and to the coil. Unplug the coil wire at the distributor, connect a good plug, ground it to the engine and check for spark. If no, use the test light on the coil and test for voltage and pulse. If both are present then the coil is no good. If the voltage is gone check the fuse. If the pulse is no good. Go back to the distributor and remove the cap. Does the rotor spin while the engine cranks? Please start here and let me know if you need more instructions.
If it won't start, it is very likely either fuel or spark is lost at the engine. Is the engine getting gas to it from the gas tank? Do you hear the fuel pump turn on for 2 seconds with the key in on, not start? This 2 second period is to put pressure in the line and to the fuel injectors.
If gas is getting up to the engine, next check for spark. Buy a cheap spark tester, hook it to a spark plug wire and crank the engine over. If ignition system is good, you will see a blue, snapping spark on all of the spark plug wires. If you have spark, next check the fuel injector circuit. Post back if you need help with that.
If you have no spark, aha! your ignition system has failed. Now you really do need to check all your fuses before proceeding. Most common failure with no spark is an ignition coil, a bad ignition control module, or a bad crank position sensor. Many other possibilities, but those are the most common.
Check fuse under dash close to the ignition switch. If good .The next check will be spark .unplug wire connector off spark plug. Put a Phillips screwdriver in it and have it the screwdriver touching metal. Check it for arc or spark when you are turning the key to start.if no spark replace ignition coil. If you need anything else that I am able to do let me know I can tell you how to replace it. Free. I told my wife how to and it works perfect.
I hope that you have unplugged the range from the wall... Until this is resolved, you need to remove power from the stove. Use a lighter (long nose type is best) until this is corrected.
To identify the exact cause, you will need to expose (one at a time is ok) each of the contacts assoicated with the burner control knobs.
Each burner control knob has a setting (ignite) that closes a set of relay contacts and allows the igniter transformer to fire all of the spark-gap igniters. Since they all "spark" from any knob, you must isolate the knob that has the short circuit in it.
So do the following: (WITH THE POWER PLUG REMOVED FROM THE WALL....)
1. Expose the back side of a knob.
2. locate the press on wire on that knob.
3. Remove that wire from the know and place it on a piece of paper toweling (to isolate it from any metal).
4. Plug the stove into the wall and listen for sparking.
5. If NO sparking is heard, you have located the bad knob. If spark IS heard, unplug the stove and restore the wire. Move onto the next knob.
6. Repeat steps 1 - 5 until the spark does no appear.
7. Repair or replace that faulty knob assembly.
May be the coil is bad. have you checked the spark plug? If there is gas and spark then it will have to start.check the circuit breaker points. is there current in the cb points?
Just remove an ignition coil that you know is good, with a good spark plug and hook up to the wire were the bad one was. Have someone start your truck up for you and if the spark plug fires then the ignition coil that you took off was bad. But before you do that just try a new spark plug that may be the problem.
The stalling out part makes me want to say you have a bad Torque Converter Clutch lock up solenoid. ( TCC ) They are notorious for that. A quick and dirty fix is to simply unplug them. It wont really harm anything unplugging it but unplugging it will make the car run a tad bit warmer and your gas mileage will suffer by about 10 mpg. ( I had to do the same thing last summer )
The no spark makes me want to say check the coil pac, ignition module under the coil pac, and the crank position sensor under the coil pac / ignition module assembly which is mounted in the block. All are located centrally on the rear of the engine under the intake manifold. You will likely need to reach them from under neath.
the sparking is one of the switches under the knobs shorted you may be able to open the top and take a switch off 1 at a time and you can figure out what one is shorted.or you can just change all of them. to stop this you may be able to just unplug the cooktop from under the top.if you unplug the cooktop you should be able to light the burners with a match.
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