After install, battery would drain totally overnight. Amp and sub disconnected with no change. Removed fuse under hood for audio/instrumentation cluster and problem fixed. Returned to installer and I was fortunate that the HU was only on for around 20 minutes, as they discovered that the unit was so hot that it had started to melt wiring and they had to wear gloves to remove it. Old unit was re-installed and no more problems with battery drain. I took my chances buying unit on line and looks like I'm out a few bucks. Just curious, if anyone has experienced the same problems and is there a possible fix? The heat this HU was putting out could have caused alot of damage. Your response is appreciated. Thank you
I have the same problem with My HU of over heating especially during the hot days of summer. I am gonna try to install a pc fan(square one's)underneath the HU to cool it doqn a bit. Im also gonna run a power wire to the radio power wire so the fan turns on when i turn on the radio on. I want to see if the HU is still overheating. My HU overheats even when just sitting in the car.
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the red light drain 0.001amp. from you battery.need 1000 hour to drain 1 amp. test the battery if is any good. do drain test on the car.rust and short will drain battery overnight.after market equipment,light in the trunk or glove box, under hood light etc. disconnect the battery and install amp meter. do the drain test. your computers uses 0.2-0.4amp when sleep.anything over 0.5-.6 amp is bad. after you connect the amp meter give 1min. to turn all systems to sleep mode.Is normal the first minute to be high drain.
ones you know something is wrong disconnect the fuses one at the time and note if any changes. if the fuse you disconnect turn the amps low note what system is connected to the fuse and you will know were is the problem
Allfordmustangs.com has an article if you Web search your car with fuse 27 and 32 as part of the search. It blames the GEM as part of the problem(wiper) and also points out that the radio has several power feeds. Fuse 27 is hot all the time, but fuse 32 is only hot in ACC or Run. So as long as you can test fuse 32 to be hot in only Acc or Run, it should not drain the battery in Off position. You might want to test the ignition switch to verify it is really turned off.
The all mustangs article had different symptoms, as you did not indicate whether the fuses popped.
The wiper motor is suppose to derail and turn off. If you can unplug the wiper motor overnight and the battery stays up, you would know that it is either the wiper motor or wiper control. The radio is on the other fuse circuit. But whether the radio can drain a battery in a short time, you need to measure draw, but if the fuse pops, the battery should stay up. Again, disconnecting a circuit like a radio, and then having the battery stay up, would point to the radio circuit being at fault.
Usually if battery is good. Its usually a parasitic drain. You can use a standard multimeter, and put across each fuse top. Two little tips. If you see a voltage even a little bit. That's a drain. Find what fuse go's too. And diagnose.
when you have a problem such as this, i would try to unplug the amp over night and see if any thing changed. also you can take a 12 volt test light and remove positive battery lead. then hook up the test light in series ( the wire end with clip hook to cable that's off . and the pointed end for checking curcuits. goes to battery post. the post you removed cable from .the test light will illuminate.it will be bright if you have a large drain on this system.it should have a small drain for the memory for the ecm in the car. then start removing fuses until the test light goes out or dim.try to leave the amp unplugged during this test. maybe this will help!!
Remove the neg. cable and attach a test light to the battery, one end on the battery terminal one connected to the neg. cable, (vice grips work well) shut the doors and remove each fuse one at a time or if not possible then remove a fuse and shut the door evrey time, always put the fuse back in it's respective slot, when the test light goes out, that circuit is the electrical draw, this will locate what circuit is the problem, check glove box light, trunk, hood, interior lights, ect
sounds like the voltage regulator/rectifier is back feeding to ground discharging the battery,disconnect the wire going to battery from regulator,and then let it sit for some time,then check again,hope that works for you.
you have something draining the battery,check for any lights that might be staying on,interior light,stop light under the hood light(if any),glove box light trunk light, if you have a multimeter with amp testing capability or an amp meter you can check where the drain is by removing each fuse & put the probes on each side the terminals until you find a drainage,that way you might be able to find out what is draining the power & rectify it......hope this helps......cheers
disconnect the battery and measure the current flow.
measurement of more than 100ma (1/10 amp) will drain the battery.
if you have an external power amp connected,check to see that the "remote" is working correctly and not leaving the amp on.
If it only the deck by inself,take out it's inline fuse and see if the battery is still losing power.
Maybe the installer has made a mistake