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Re: wire to cone connection
Try using quick setting epoxy glue. just put pressure on the same spot while holding the epoxy with an old spoon lined with clear plastic wrap. after epoxy sets, remove the spoon and trim away the plastic film with a new razor blade. to be sure the connection is being made, turn sound on just so you can barely hear it before performing this so that the cone vibrations do not interfere with the setting epoxy.
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If you are talking about the wires that connect from the speaker coil in the cone to the terminals on the frame, there is nothing you can do if they are not long enough or broken. You will get the speaker re-coned. That is not possible with some speakers because of the manufacturers agreement with speaker repair places.
cut the rubber like tarr coating of right at the cone. make you a longer wire that u can put in the broken wires place and sodern the wires back up. then finish by appling a heat resistant electrical addhesive at each connection. SOLVED
Im sure that there are repair stores that will fix things like that for you...but the fix is fairly easy if you are familiar with using electrical connectors..or even soldering. You should be able to turn your subwoofer over and locate the to "copper" colored wires that run to the cone. If its what you make it sound like then one of them will be broke...you can either solder that wire back together...or you can connect wire connectors to each end of the broken wire and then re-connect it. Some of the connectors slide together and some of the connectors look like small skinny tubes...it depends on how much clearance you have to work with and how handy you are. Again...this is not a professional fix but it will work and should last for as long as you have the sub...just make sure that when you connect the connectors to the wire that they are tight connections and the connector does not slide off..give a small tug maybe. Perhaps you may know a friend with a little electrical experience that could help you. Also if you get this far and it is now working I suggest that you put some electrical tape around the connector because the connector may have the tendency to bounce off the cone of the subwoofer now at high levels of bass. Facing the connector at the bottom when remounting the sub would be a good idea as well but not necessary as it may not look right with the writing on the front of the subs matching when looking at them. If this sounds like something that you cannot do...then your best bet is to take it or call somewhere like a best buy and ask them if they do it or can recommend somewhere that does it..it could be pricey or they could just tell you its best to junk it...but ive done the fix myself and its worth doing it to get the extra life out of the sub...
Contact MMats Pro Audio at 561-842-0600. They can re-cone it for you, or sell you the re-cone kit. If that does not work for you, contact MWA Speaker Parts in Tuscon - 520-647-7193. They can sell you a re-cone kit, or they can direct you to a speaker repair center near you. A third option would be to contact Sundown Audio in Troutman, NC. They may be able to re-cone it for you.
how did he messed up? anyways, if u push the cone of the sub down and u hear a sound like "TUN!" its most likely ur sub is irremediably damaged. The cone needs to come up perfectly as a good sub would do. I need to know exactly what ur friend did b.c it is quite weird to mess a good sub by slightly switching cables
i have a problem, i dont think my speaker is blown, but , it just looks like the wiring broke on the coil at the end that connects to the cone, i think thats how i can best describe it..its a 10" pioneer IMPP w/ integrated voice coil cooling system 500w max and also it looks like where the wires broke, the coil cam unglued from the cone.. hope someone can help me..is this something i can repair on my own or is it garbage?
Hello. I do speaker reconing and amp rebuilds for a living and the L7's often suffer from tinsel leed wire breakage which can cause "poping" and "screaching" noises in the sub in various cone positions. You need to remove the sub and push straight down on the cone repeatly and determine if you can feel or hear crunching noises to make sure the voice coil and/or spider are not damaged. A faulty leed wire can usually be identified by a dark spot or obvious breakage. All of the L5 and L7 models can be successfully repaired as long as they are the older models that have a center cap in the cone. The newer capless models will have to have an upper brace cap glued to all of the cone's fingers and will have a rather ugly appearance. Leed wire overhauls usually run around $30.00 for the older models. Voice coil and spider overhauls run around $90.00.