An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: wire to cone connection
Try using quick setting epoxy glue. just put pressure on the same spot while holding the epoxy with an old spoon lined with clear plastic wrap. after epoxy sets, remove the spoon and trim away the plastic film with a new razor blade. to be sure the connection is being made, turn sound on just so you can barely hear it before performing this so that the cone vibrations do not interfere with the setting epoxy.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If you are talking about the wires that connect from the speaker coil in the cone to the terminals on the frame, there is nothing you can do if they are not long enough or broken. You will get the speaker re-coned. That is not possible with some speakers because of the manufacturers agreement with speaker repair places.
Im sure that there are repair stores that will fix things like that for you...but the fix is fairly easy if you are familiar with using electrical connectors..or even soldering. You should be able to turn your subwoofer over and locate the to "copper" colored wires that run to the cone. If its what you make it sound like then one of them will be broke...you can either solder that wire back together...or you can connect wire connectors to each end of the broken wire and then re-connect it. Some of the connectors slide together and some of the connectors look like small skinny tubes...it depends on how much clearance you have to work with and how handy you are. Again...this is not a professional fix but it will work and should last for as long as you have the sub...just make sure that when you connect the connectors to the wire that they are tight connections and the connector does not slide off..give a small tug maybe. Perhaps you may know a friend with a little electrical experience that could help you. Also if you get this far and it is now working I suggest that you put some electrical tape around the connector because the connector may have the tendency to bounce off the cone of the subwoofer now at high levels of bass. Facing the connector at the bottom when remounting the sub would be a good idea as well but not necessary as it may not look right with the writing on the front of the subs matching when looking at them. If this sounds like something that you cannot do...then your best bet is to take it or call somewhere like a best buy and ask them if they do it or can recommend somewhere that does it..it could be pricey or they could just tell you its best to junk it...but ive done the fix myself and its worth doing it to get the extra life out of the sub...
Looks like a broken copper braid that links the speaker terminal to the cone (from there on it goes to the coil which is underneath the cone).
Check the speaker connection terminals (near the magnet), you will notice that each terminal has a copper braid wire going from that terminal to the speaker cone.
Inspect both braid wires carefully at each end (near the speaker terminal and near the speaker cone), there will either be some damage to the braid at one or more of these four locations or the braid could be actually broken at any of these spots.
The braid can actually be resoldered at the point where it's damaged or broken - this task will require good soldering skills, mainly because this kind of braid wires are difficuld to solder (they are a bit difficult to clean because of their structure and solder won't attach itself well to oxydized copper), but also because some speaker cones are made of plastic which may melt if you overheat it with a soldering iron.
Besides that, when resoldering is being done, only a very short portion of the braid should be wetted with solder because the solder point will become rigid when the solder cools down, and the braid needs to remain very flexible when the speaker operates (if it's too rigid or too short, damage to the speaker cone could occur or the braid could get broken again when the speaker will be playing at a loud volume).
Hope you can have it repaired, it can be done at home, but there are also speaker repair shops where you can get it done (i'm not sure about the prices though).
Anyway, the alternative is to replace the speaker itself.
It could be one of a couple of problems. First check the speakers and see if the cone rubber has worn or fallen out. It will be very visible if it has( the most outer piece of the cone ). If this is the case you can just replcae the speakers and all should be good.
Secondly it may be a short, if one of the wires connecting to the speakers is touching steel anywhere, the stereo will short the output circuts and there will usually be no volume. Any good stereo has a protection circut, so it doesn't blow the out puts on the stereo up.
Im guessing its the first problem, those nissans have pretty budget speakers made of paper cone..
Contact MMats Pro Audio at 561-842-0600. They can re-cone it for you, or sell you the re-cone kit. If that does not work for you, contact MWA Speaker Parts in Tuscon - 520-647-7193. They can sell you a re-cone kit, or they can direct you to a speaker repair center near you. A third option would be to contact Sundown Audio in Troutman, NC. They may be able to re-cone it for you.
Hello! my speaker Alessis M1 Active 620, with a roar is very strong in the speaker, the potentiometer does not attenuate, change the volume. Ja switched capacitor C8, based on my research of other users, but got no result. When you press the power button, the LED lights in blue, and even change the color to red, producing a noise (snoring) very strong. help! Please help me!
Hello. I do speaker reconing and amp rebuilds for a living and the L7's often suffer from tinsel leed wire breakage which can cause "poping" and "screaching" noises in the sub in various cone positions. You need to remove the sub and push straight down on the cone repeatly and determine if you can feel or hear crunching noises to make sure the voice coil and/or spider are not damaged. A faulty leed wire can usually be identified by a dark spot or obvious breakage. All of the L5 and L7 models can be successfully repaired as long as they are the older models that have a center cap in the cone. The newer capless models will have to have an upper brace cap glued to all of the cone's fingers and will have a rather ugly appearance. Leed wire overhauls usually run around $30.00 for the older models. Voice coil and spider overhauls run around $90.00.