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Re: hobart lx30 won't turn on
Is the circuit breaker on?Open the door and look on the right and left side at the top.you will see 2 screws,remove them and slide the drawer out.you will see 2 boards the one on the left has 2 fuses,make sure their good.let me know.
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Not sure if you have an LXIC or an LX30.
Both have a pull out drawer at the top. Both have the main connection of power on the contactor in the front left corner. Both have control circuit fuses between the contactor and relay board.
Use caution with a digital meter to test.
This is a bad sump temperature probe. The unit will function, but will not heat nor display the wash water temperature.
This is a very easy fix. Order Hobart part number 328994 from your nearest Hobart parts dept.
Turn off and drain the unit. Kill the power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Remove the lower front cover. Locate the screw-in temperature probe at the front of the sump. Unplug the sensor from the wiring harness, remove with a 7/16" open end wrench. Screw in the new probe, using teflon tape of the threads, snuggly. It does not need to be super tight. Plug it into the harness, reinstall the front cover, turn the breaker back on, and start up the unit.
TURN THE BREAKER OFF AS EVEN WITH THE UNIT "OFF" THERE WILL BE 120 VOLTS PRESENT AT THE SUMP HEATER (yellow wires) DUE TO ONLY ONE LEG OF POWER BEING SWITCHED OFF!
The LX18 series was a compromise machine, the lack of a sump heater causes numerous rinse temperature problems due to it's increased water use (over the sump-heater equipped, fresh water rinse LX30 series).
The LX18H can be reprogrammed for true fill and dump operation. If you still need to do this, please let me know via e-mail or post a reply, otherwise a won't post the long answer!
(I worked for Hobart as a service tech. from 1994 until 1999, and have been independent since then)
I'm not a Hobart technician, but here what I founded in my manual for the LX30 error message:
LX18 / LX30 display shows E0, E2, E3 or E4
1. Low water pressure - check for clogged hose strainer; check that site water pressure meets minimum flow pressures.
2. Make sure probes are clean
3. No water pressure - main water supply valves may not be working
4. Drain valve open - turn machine OFF to drain machine, then ON. Repeat twice (this assists in clearing any drain valve obstructions). Wait for machine to reach READY mode and press WASH. Slowly open door several seconds later and note water level. Close door; 30 seconds later, open door slowly and check that water level is the same as it was. If not, repeat the OFF-ON procedure. If problem persists, call your local Hobart Service Office.
I work in the product service department for Hobart Corp. and work mainly with the Hobart dishwashers. The most common problem with what you have going on is a faulty keypad on the front of the unit. This is the component with the actual on/off/wash buttons on it. If the problem is very frequent, then you could contact your local Hobart service office and they could come out and troubleshoot the problem to be certain that this is the faulty part before just buying a part and hoping that it works. If you would like to discuss this a bit further or need assistance as to a contact for your local Hobart office, you can contact us at 937-332-2525, and press option #2.
Your problem is as straightforward as your observation, the unit is not getting enough water flow.
First, if your DW water is hooked up with a braided stainless hose, there is usually a screen in the end of it, (check both ends). It gets clogged with debris and chokes off the water. Make sure the line is not kinked.
If that doesn't work, you are likely having trouble with your fill valve. It is under the front kick panel. It has a large castle like upper cap. It is common for debris in the water to make this valve malfunction. It isn't too difficult to open up without removing. Just watch how it is assembled. If you pay attention, it's easy. If you have a booster, the hoses are very brittle with age.
And otherwise, the fill valve may be bad. REMEMBER, verify your supply water flow where it connects to the machine first. Don't assume. You could have a pressure regulator or a line strainer that is part of your supply line. They do fail. But that's a plumber's fix, not a technician.
The rinse water in a LX30 is driven by water pressure. A solenoid valve, bottom front - gold body, opens up and allows the water to flow.
If you are referring to the rinse agent pump, there must be NO leaks in the tubing or the hose that runs through the pump. And if the unit has lost its prime, using your hand to "seal" it, and forcing water from the faucet into the line can prime it.