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Help repair whirlpool GHW9250 ML1

My wife and I own a whirlpool front loader since about 2005 (GHW9250ML1). We have 2 problems: 1--it leaks from below the door--it's a slow steady leak, particularly during washing and spinning cycles. 2--the tub spins somewhat unevenly and VERY loudly with bumping and scraping. This is particularly notable during the spin cycle and we are unable to have the spin setting any higher than "low" because it is so loud and sounds like the machine might come apart. It still is functional and I'd like to get it fixed. Any diagnostic suggestions and most of all, would these repairs be something a fairly intelligent "do-it-yourselfer" might try to tackle? I already know I need a new "outer tub" because the rim of this is broken nearly the whole way around. I suspect I need a new shock absorber and well as springs but not sure what else to look for? Would appreciate any assistance.

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  • rmbpac Mar 01, 2008

    I appreciate you guidance. sounds like the cost/benefit of repair over replacement lends itself to replacement of the entire unit. If I'm looking at ~ $900 in parts before I even address the leaking front door (which started before spin problem), till I have the parts and labor to repair both of these issues, I'm looking at more than what I paid for this unit new.

  • rmbpac Mar 02, 2008

    Does that require that the whole rear tub (with bearing) be replaced? I have a repair guy coming on Tuesday to look at it. By my warranty papers, the tub should be covered (It's about $500) but still have to pay for labor!

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I have the GHW9250 Duet ... had the same problem with the spin cycle after moving to our new home. Thank goodness for extended warranty... had the service fellow in to look. Less that 20 minutes later he was on his way again.

Apparently these machines have tempermental shocks, and they will rattle loose from their secure locations. If you remove the front cover, below the door you should be able to see the shocks to the rear of the machine... if you can move them around with your hand they are not locked into their location.
Both ends of the shocks need to be secured, otherwise the machine will walk right out of the laundry room. It is a quick look and check, however be sure to turn off the breaker tothe machine... you will be reaching into a live area.

Posted on Apr 03, 2008

We are having the same problem here... I took the back off today and it is in fact the rear bearing. It looks as everybody that has owned one over 4 years is having the same problem

Posted on Mar 02, 2008

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This is not the do-it yourself job, sounds like you need a new rear bearing, only way to get is to replace back half of outer tub, inner basket, because the shaft is what rides against the rear bearing adn new pulluey assy , i wouyld check with manufacture as to possible part warr. onsome of these parts beacuse with out it your lookin at 900 in parts not ot mention the 3 hours of work!!

Posted on Mar 01, 2008

  • Ron Coons
    Ron Coons Mar 02, 2008

    rear bearing is part of rear tub, and although it is happening with tis model, it happens on all front loader models not whirlpool specific problem

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My whirpool washing machine ghw9250 has no power


Need a bit more info.
Have you checked the power at the power point?
plug a lamp or similar into the power point to check.
Are there any indicator lights showing on the front of the machine?
could be a main board, have come across a whirlpool wfs1273bd with a similar problem yeasterday with a similar issue, pwer to the main board but nothing out.

Jan 02, 2013 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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Purchased my Whirlpool front loader 4/2004, we are on our 7th bellow, new inner...


This advice is for the Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet FRONT LOADER style washing machines. A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn’t cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.

I hope you find these instructions helpful and good luck to you.

on Feb 21, 2011 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

When filling my Kenmore washer to begin a load of laundry the water enters the tub like it is going to wash but immediately drains onto the floor and the "water sensor" never tturns the water...


This either due to a detached "water sensor"/pressure switch hose or a broken drain/leaking drain pump. Disconnect power then remove the screws securing the console to the top of the machine. Pull the console forward then up and lay it back on the hinges. The screws are located at the rear of the console, front corners of the console, or at the front corners of the console under the end caps.

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Click on the link below for the detailed procedure in troubleshooting and repair of this leak problem.

Whirlpool and Kenmore Top Loader Washing Machines Leaking From the Bottom

Aug 20, 2011 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Front door leaks


The door gasket is bad this page will help http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/GE-front-loader-washer.html

I know the page says GE front loader but replacing the door gasket is the same.

Oct 05, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

I need to replace the door bellow on my GHW9250. Can you kindly forward a PDF of a service manual and/or other to gfurio2001@gmail.com Much thanks.


The following link explains step-by-step how to change the door bellow on a Whirlpool Duet series front loader:


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574186-installing_a_door_bellow_on_a_front_load


Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

I have found these sites to be reputable and provide great service. Prices differ between them, so shop and compare. The first three sites I've listed have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need.


If you have any questions about this repair, please post back and let me know. If the link does not take you directly to the instructions I provided, copy and paste the link to your web browser. I hope you find this information helpful.

May 18, 2010 | Washing Machines

2 Answers

How do I stop my Kenmore front loader from leaking around the door. I have a Kenmore HE 2plus front loader


If this is a Kenmore FRONT LOADER you need to remove the lower toe panel directly below the door to inspect the cabinet interior for the source of your leak. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576656-washer_leak__front_loader

The most common source of leaks on a front loader is the rubber door bellow. The bellow can develop cracks, rips or tears with age and needs to replaced. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574186-installing_a_door_bellow_on_a_front_load

If you have any questions about this repair, please let me know so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope this helps you.

Jan 31, 2010 | Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Leaks from bottom but only when i put a small load in


If this is a Whirlpool FRONT LOADER you need to remove the lower toe panel directly below the door to inspect the cabinet interior for the source of your leak. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576656-washer_leak__front_loader

The most common source of leaks on a front loader is the rubber door bellow. The bellow can develop cracks, rips or tears with age and needs to replaced. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574186-installing_a_door_bellow_on_a_front_load

If you have any questions about this repair, please let me know so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope this helps you.

Jan 21, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Reset whirlpool front loader


Power shd be on. Right side of control panel, "end of cycle", hold this down for 3 seconds.

Mar 21, 2009 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

3 Answers

Whirlpool Duet Washer (GWH9100LW1) Bangs Loudly during spin


how old iss your washer? do you have an owners manual. because usually there is an extended factory warrenty on the tub and basket. the only thing you would have to pay for would be the labor. Call whirlpool if you do not have a owners manual to find out. the bearing is compressed in the tub. does it sound like an airplain taking off in your house that's usually it.

Jan 04, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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