The machine is not running. The cylinder does revolve when I spin it by hand - but with some friction (it was really stuck but I manages to fix it with blunt force...). I get an error message (can't remember which one). It feels like something is stuck between the cylinder and outer casing (sock?). Can I open the machine to remove the obstacle? All the best!
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With a cylinder mower the sharpness of the blade is only part of the concern. The fixed blade is like one of the blades of a pair of shears and each "blade" of the revolving cylinder acts as the other.
As long as only grass is being cut (no stones) the blades will last a long time with only occasional adjustment to the fixed blade as per instruction manual.
After much use or in case of damage the fixed blade will need replacing or sharpening. If it is badly worn it will need removing and sharpening by a specialist with the correct equipment but otherwise the light application of a file, stone or a patent sharpener and then readjust the blade per manual.
When eventually the cylinder becomes worn or sustains damage it must be removed and machine trued and sharpened using a lathe or similar.
An accurately sharpened cylinder and a true and sharp fixed blade correctly adjusted will consistently cut paper across the complete width of the blade when turned by hand. A competently sharped and adjusted cylinder mower will cut the thinnest tissue like the finest scissors without binding.
NO dont change the belt, chances are its just the cable needs adjusting, slacken the 10mm nut on the adjuster that goes into the casing on the left side of the machine ( think its the top cable that adjusts the cylinder) after the nut is slackened off turn the adjuster clockwise so its going into the casing,you can do this while engine s running. the cylinder should stop turning as you wind in the adjuster. I would also suggest that the cylinder is turning too easily and it will need adjusting by turning the adjuster screws either side of the cylinder. turn the adjuster screws clockwise one click each at a time until the cylinder just touches the bottom blade when you spinn the cylinder by hand( with the engine NOT running!!!!!)
Serial number comes out to be a colt 1849 pocket revolver made in 1871 values range from around 300 to several thousand dollars depending on condition matching numbers and functionality The Model 1849 Pocket Revolver, a replacement for the Baby Dragoon, was the most widely produced of any Colt percussion pistol. Nearly 340,000 were manufactured during a 23-year production run that ended in 1873. Although most production took place in Colt's Hartford factory, approximately 11,000 were made in London. These pistols were available with octagonal barrels ranging between 3 and 6 inches in length. The one-piece walnut grips, and casehardened frame, hammer, and loading lever previously featured on Colt's Walker and Dragoon revolvers was carried over to the Model 1849 Pocket, however, the square-back trigger guard was replaced with a round guard, and the engraved cylinder featured a stagecoach holdup scene rather than the Texas Ranger - Indian fight that had been standard on earlier Colts. Approximately 4,000 so-called "Wells Fargo" variants, with 3-inch barrels and without loading levers, were also manufactured
things to check...Revolver Motor No Good ( if it's got a gold coloured gear it's the old type, new type has a dark grey gear ) this has been the biggest cause of CF20 i've had. Revolver Backlash ( does it rock backwards & forwards slightly when operated by hand? ) , this can be adjusted with the screws on the revolver motor. but make sure to not end up with the revolver too tight. Teeth missing on Revolver unit. ( it only takes one or 2 missing ) Colour Dev ( s ) worn Colour Dev drive gear / clutch worn ( or bushings very tight ) Colour ATS U/S Solenoid Dirty for Colour ATS ( inside ) Spring for Colour ATS return Stretched / Incorrectly fitted / Damaged I tend to check the Motor 1st, the list could go on, but these i find to be the most common causes.
Can be dirt or particles that have made it stuck with friction and so a resetting /overhauling with good oiling, degresing will resolve the matter, provided there is wearing off in the drive.
First use a degreasing spray before you can disemble.
This means the revolver (holds the 3 color toners/developer units) never returned/moved to its "home" position. It could mean a bad or dirty home position sensor or a faulty/bad logic board or possibly a bad motor (not rotating the revolver correctly) try cleaning or replacing this sensor first. if you remove the covers from the left side of the copier you will see the revolver unit. the sensor is located at the rear of the revolver unit mounted on the frame of the copier.(easy to see) there is one screw holding it and a small wire connector. These copiers are "famous" for having dirty sensor issues. If the revolver/machine makes an odd noise when starting up, caused by the revolver then its starting to turn (run the copier with the side cover open so you can watch it) then it would point more to being a drive problem.
Cant understand how the machine will revolve on the 'spin cycle' & yet you can hear the motor on the 'wash cycle' but yet it doesnt revolve!!
Nomally if the water fills, & the tub revolves without the programmer advancing, its because the heater is not working. ie faulty thermostat, heat element, or maybe a wire burned off in the 'heater circuit'. Check if you have 240 volts at both ends of the heat element, with a meter or 240 volt bulb
!! BE CAREFUL OF 240VOLTS!!