An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert that has over 500 points.
Re: 606tr rinnai silent server
You are not getting gas for some reason. Check the valve to make sure it is getting power to open the solenoid. It may need to be set to on. If you are getting power to the valve and its not getting gas, check the orifice. Sometimes a spider or other bug will get in there and plug it up. Its a very small hole, so it wont take much to block it.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It sounds like the system tried to ignite 3 times automatically then when the flame sensor saw no flame board went into lock out. Most time you have to shut the power off completely to the heater. Wait about a minute and turn power back on. You may of had air in the lines and could not get ignition or if you had gas there may be a problem with other components. I would try this again and see if you get ignition...
Is sounds like it could be the automatic ignition. If the sound only happens when you are pressing or turning the knob, I would say that is all that it is. Most gas heaters have an ignition switch under the knob. This triggers the ignition to try and spark. light the gas when the knob is depressed.
When the gas was turned OFF, air got in the line(s) and created an air pocket. This air will need to purged from the system, before the heater will light. It only the shutoff valve on the gas line to the heater was turned OFF, it will be easier to purge. If your Rinnai heater has manual ignition rather than electronic ignition. Holding the control down in the Pilot position, will eventually purge the air. If you have electronic ignition, continually trying to light the unit will do the same thing, but take longer to accomplish. Consulting your Rinnai will also help you with this situation.
Hope this helps you and thanks for choosing FixYa.
The 11 code means Missed Ignition. This is a broad error code. It just means the stove did not light when it was supposed to. I would check the fuel first to be sure the valve is on and you have gas. Next, try to start the stove with the room dark. Look into the window to confirm a sparking. This is the igniter. At the same time be sure the combustion motor is running. You should be able to hear it and feel the stove to confirm this. If the motor does not turn or the flue is blocked you will not get any gas to flow. Look outside to confirm the flue is not blocked.
I know that this is an old post but i had this same problem and i cant find a single answer to this problem anywhere on the net. Rinnai couldnt even give me an answer (let alone even call me back)
Well I figured it out. If you go onto Rinnai's website, you can download the manual, which has the codes and what they mean. Code 12 means Flame Failure. Still this didnt tell me enough. After taking the thing completely apart twice i finally figured out that the heater itself was perfectly fine.
The gas line was the problem. My gas line has a check valve on it right next to the heater. The check valve was not letting a consistent flow of gas to the heater because the heater was drawing too much gas at times, causing the check valve to start to close because it thought there was a leak (so to speak).
All i did was turn the gas valve behind the heater so that it was closed more (not letting as much gas flow through) so that it wouldnt trip the check valve. the heater now works fine and keeps a consistent temperature with no problems.
not knowing where you live or what the average temp is, it's tough to help you. If I may assume that the heater used to heat just fine and now it is not, I would look at either not enough gas supply (bad gas regulator at meter or tank), or the temperature probe is not giving the circuit board the correct reading. Remove the left side panel against the wall and look for a yellow wire with a black rubber tip. Take an ice cube and place it on the probe. The heater should turn on. Now pinch the probe with your hand. Your body heat will eventually tell the unit to shut off. If it has no effect, you will need a new probe (they call it a thermister). Have your gas company check the gas pressure and make sure it is within spec. The WTA model has some programming that may have scrambled. Reset the set temperatures by following the manual or going to Rinnai.us to view one. Hope this helps.
Well I checked and the pilot would light and then go off right away and repeat.I jumped the 24v terminal to the pv pilot valve terminal on the ignition module and the main burner lit up. I then disconnected the spark igniter and the burner shut off and it tried ti relight producing hi energy sparks from the ignition module. So I ordered the module from american hvac parts online and replaced it. I recieved an updated module and had to hook up the 24v to the th-w terminal to make it work the old module was a s86ooh And i just searched the new model number to figure out how to make it work. The new one has self diagnostics on it. It cost 208$ with shipping
There is no way to restrict the setting and keep it UL approved. If you cannot get the heater above a certain setting you have either too small of a heater, too much outside air entering the apartment or the gas pressures are not great enough.