Question about Philips 50PF7220A Television
My phillips is just outside of 1 year warranty. After watching it for any random period of time it will shut itself off and them turn itself back on, after doing this a few times it will eventually stay off and blink one long red blink and one fast red blink. When you press the power button, the green light will light up, but will not turn on.. it immediately goes right to blinking red again. aftre unplugging and plugging it back in any random amounts of times it will come on. sometimes after a few unplugs, sometimes after 100 of them , I allways leave it unplugged till the capacitors discharge... or the lights no longer blink. On two occasions the red light blinked 7 times and then then i power cycled it and it didnt come back. i originally thought it was overheating but even after leaving it unplugged for 2 days it still did it.
I also have a distinctive rectangle or block in the upper left hand corner of the screen that has a sparkly picture. And sometimes any black on the screen has red sparkles in it, ie ; a guy is wearing a black coat on a movie.. its a red tinted black.. both of these problems come and go.
I had a TV repair company coem and replace the power supply , and he said he didnt see any other problems as i couldnt get the tv to do its shutting off thing while he was here. Aftre speaking with another TV repair guy on the phone he said it sounded like a Bad Y module? and wanted a $75 dollar diagnosis charge, $200 for the Y module and $279 for labor. Sounds a little high. I have the Tv opened on my work bench, And after reading a similar post it sounds like its the Y module, can anyone confirm this or have error codes for this TV? I contacted PTS electronics and they said theyd rebuild the board for around $100 bucks. Can anyone give me trouble shooting advice to correctly identify the exact part to send them?
LOL! OMG! I have solved this problem for now. This is what worked for me. First off relax and don't think you need expensive technicians, and from blogs I read it's obvious that Phillips thinks they got their money so your waranty has expried and to bad for you, they don't care.
My problem and the run down. Bought a 50 inch plasma Phillips TV from BJ's Wholesale back in 2006 for about $1,700.00. Note I went o BJ's website to check out the Tv's as I have experienced problems and it looks to me the entire brand of Phillips is not even being sold their anymore. Ha, go figure.
Just this year early 2009, after having about three years I would watch HD cable and at times a click noise would occur where it even clicked the stereo amplifier where my surround sound audio would click as well with the tv, it would appear to go in silence, picture would go balc for about 10 seconds and go back on. This means from what I see later is that your blinking red lightb issue will be coming shortly in the future. It to me is a warning that if you are at that stage, expect to become a victim of the red light district. If this is the stage you are in, and it will still turn on and off ok, and your under warranty, make the complaint immediatly.
Then just 5 days ago, I tried to turn television on and it clicked as if it was going on and screen didn't show anything, and I got a 4 rapid flashing red lights a pause in flashing then 4 flashing red lights.
I googled these very blogs, check them all out as their are different ones and I have a 50 inch and even though the blog I took as a reference was one who had a Phillips at 42 inches etc, or different sizes it may not matter, look at flashing red light problems with all HD plasmas that are Phillips.
I have to give credit to a blogger by the screen name of Doug Mohr. Let me eloborate what his idea was and what I experienced to solve the issue.
It appears to me before all thse techs or electrical guys and TV repair men say they will fix your tv for the price in which you pretty much paid for it, STOP! Wait a minute. What if I told you you may be able to fix it for about $5.00 or $10.00. It reminds me of car mechanics that when my Mercedes shaked in idle position the dealers would be like hey you need to get a new timing belt, or a sensor, etc when all you really need is new spark plugs. Well isn't spark plugs cheaper? Yes indeed and it works fine.
Well, credit to Doug Mohr I went to my garage and looked for an older PC connection to an old computer of mine that was replaced with a new one. Apparently the same sort of connection to power up your computer is the same as the plug to your television. As soon as I saw that on a blog I went to replace the power cord.
The power cord to my old computer Dell from like 2003, looked as if the three little holes that plug into TV were smaller then the actual Phillips connection to TV, but only a little. I realized that it fir into the TV in back perfectly. I then pluged it in and damn it, it still had flashing red lights again. When it did it it again communicated to my receiver for audio surround sound which my barnd is Sony and it shut down including the volume was on only 10 seconds with no picture. So I turned off the receiver for audio, and unplugged with old PC Connecter to TV, waited another 15 seconds, and sure enough I plugged in as if I let it fail once however I may have done what is known as cycling my TV and new plug letting the TV understand that the cord is different. Try a few times. So TV on second attempt withoutr turning power on was plugged in and their was no light blinking anymore. I gave it 10 seconds and it didn't turn flashing red like it does even if you don't power it yet. So, I turned on TV and the picture showed, and then put on my audio reciever and it worked great back to normal.
Not everyone has extra PC cords lingering around, however Doug says you can pick them up for like $5.00. However take your cord out of back of TV, and go somehwere in house where you may have stored cords in the past, like I do for it comes in handy to see the shape of end that plugs into TV is the exact same as all PC connections for power.
So it may not be these Y coonection X stuff TV repair men talk of, and you may not have to go as far as taking your TV apart like I see some do. My example of don't replace your timing belt when it's a spark plug for your car, and don't be having repair men getting paid just to show up at your house. Try this it worked for me and my TV is 3 years old.
I also suggest to save your plasma TV, I was given a pointer to chnage your color temperature to cold, when you have option of like hot warm cold on your menu. I was gievn a pointer the cool color temperature will make your plasma last longer then to have in in warmer modes and it doesn't seem to really affect my 1080 picture. I did that after I plugged in my PC cord to TV. I am all set now. So it may not happen for you first attempt, so cycle and try. When I did this with original cord it was stubborn and after unplugging and putting back on it worked, then after I shut down again it wouldn't at all no matter how many times. A darn PC connection and different power supply cord did it as others in here look for an actual Phillips cord replacement whcih seems to be according to other bloggers non existant which I really don't know the truth to that. Doug said this was something Phillips Customer servioce didn't give pointers on, and the only person that fixed it was you or me. However advice is your tv gopes blnk sometimes and back on and your under warranty, call them ASAP and don't let them give you the run around to staul you deliberatly to get you passed the warranty period, from what I read is the Phillips compnay is like look, you paid us much money for your TV, and now you have the same problem everyone else does, and your warranty has expired, so in other words their attitude is take a jump in the lake pal.
It seems that the plug to PC that is now my TV power cord was more snug to rear to connect then original cord. According to Doug, the cords were shiiped from China ( go figure ) anmd their have been power issues even with Sony and much more for faulty power cords in which they are manufactured there. The PC cord was made in China, however it was a change that my TV seemed to enjoy, and I suggest you try this and give it a few attemps before you go spending 100's if not more then 1,000.00 to fix, when it usually means your better off just getting a new TV. Look the economy is bad and their are TV repair men, but that's how they make a living. For them to not get paid a decent fee to see your tv and fix it is not the way they can make their money by telling you to plug a PC cord into your TV and they get paid squat. So try that and good luck, my TV is working great. It's just some power cords over time just s#%t the bed.
Thanks Doug Mohr!
Posted on Apr 17, 2009
Blinking red light- Everyone who bought a Philips Plasma should read this. We had the whole problem everyone else did and when unplugging no longer worked we had my dad look at it. it was the two instant start capacitors that were blown (bulging slightly at the top). We ordered 2 online from Future Electronics. Part #ELXZ100ELL332MK25S, MFG Untied Chemicon Inc. With overnight shipping it came to a total of $17. Cheap!! plus a bottle of Makers Mark as a thank you to my dad. It took him about an hour and it is like new again. Be careful though- he did inform me these capacitors carry a charge even when the TV it off or unplugged so its best to let someone who is familiar with electronics do it. It seemed easy though. Just look in the bottom middle of the circuit panel and there are 2 dark blue capacitors side by side and they are a bit smaller than some of the others. It can be hard to tell but they will bulge out slightly at the top. Hope this helps other! and thanks to the other bloggers for pointing us in the right direction!
Posted on Dec 31, 2009
I had a rough go with this problem, but I feel I have some pearls of wisdom on this so please take the time to read the below.
I tried that different cord trick because as stated above, it is a rather universal cord. This did not work for me though, so I reverted to solution #7. Took your advise and ordered the exact capacitors that you stated (I would order 4 since they are $1 and if you break one you can just use another). Since I went through these steps with my dad and didn't bribe him with Makers Mark I can share some different things you want to look out for while making this change if you haven't done this before.
First of all, your going to want to unscrew the entire back of the TV off. It's a shell, so make sure you get all of the screws off (there are some tricky hidden ones so keep your eyes pealed).
After this is done your going to want to locate where the capacitors that are burned out are. There are tons of these things inside, some large, some small. Your going to want to located the mother board (the big circuit board in the middle of the unit, you can see it fairly easily in the picture above). They are located in the middle of the mother board towards the bottom. Mine were fairly easy to locate as they were the only ones bulging on the mother board.
Here is where it gets tricky. You want to unscrew the mother board from the TV itself so it is only connected by the wires that are flowing into the motherboard. These wires unclip however, so detach these wires so you can remove the entire motherboard.
Once you remove the motherboard, your going to need to remove the blown capacitors. The way this is done is to use a sodering iron on the back of the motherboard so it loosens these capacitors so they wiggle out (best to do this with two people, I did it with my dad. One person soders, the other wiggles the capacitors loose.
Once you have them out, make sure to line up the positve and the negative ends of the capacitors (there is a line on the capacitor with a different collor, for instance, my capacitor was navy blue and there was a silver strip along the side of the negative side on the capacitor). If you look close on the motherboard, you should see a positive sign, just make sure it matches the capacitor.
You may run into some trouble with the holes from sodering, because they may close. This is not a problem, you just need to loosen up the holes as you did when you originally removed the first capacitors. Once you soder the holes and open them up, feed the two capacitors into the holes.
Once they are secure into the new mother board your going to need to resoder them into the motherboard with actual soder to close it off. If you are not firmiliar how to do this, seek help. I've sodered some hot water tanks with my dad before but I let him take the reigns on this one as hes done it so many times.
Once you reconnect the wires/motherboard/screws/external shell you should be ready togo. Try plugging it back in before you close everything off though to make sure you did it correctly.
I went through this process with my Dad today, based on the advise above and nothing else. It probably took us about 1:30. Oh, and I repaid him with some Johnny Walker Black, because while Bourbon is fine...this was a Scotch kind of an job.
Best of luck, and I hope this helps a little more on the fine details posted in Solution 7.
Posted on May 16, 2010
I agree with you Ice. I think I will do that. Had my PHillips plasma for only three years and of course the warranty is expired. They charge so much for the extended that it makes it hard for the average joe to purchase it. I will contact BBB and I'm also gonna contact Phillips. I think it's sh_tty that they charge us so much for a tv that is going to fail in 3 to 5 years. My mother has a Maganvox for 14 years and hasn't had a problem yet. It might not be plasma but it is reliable. If anyone knows how to make a web site I suggest one against Phillps and their worthless tv's.
Posted on Jan 01, 2010
Ok, i have had my 50" shut off for no reason then come back on then this last week...it would not come on and the green light went to red..and blinking...I unplugged and plugged back in...that worked for 4 days...now nothing..only red light blinks 6 times slow then 3 times fast....I luckly checked my paperwork and I had purchased the extended wararnty through Best Buy..they are coming out to repair...So I will know the answer for you all......but they are not coming till March 12.....darn geek squad
Posted on Feb 25, 2009
It's most likely the Y-Sus, or Y Sustain board to be more accurate. It's located on the left side of your picture under the support rail and connected to the upper and lower Y-drive modules.
Pull it, send it to PTS and then re-install. Testing isn't an option unless you have a scope and schematics and if you had those I doubt seriously you would be needing the help.
Note: it is a rather difficult job just to pull that board and re-install it... Be VERY careful not to damage the ribbon cables connecting the Y-Sus to the Y-Drive boards.
Posted on Mar 01, 2008
Solution #7 worked. Though the language can get a bit confusing, it was actually pretty simple. Find a replacement AC cord, stick it back there and turn your TV on. If it doesn't work the first time, keep trying as the TV needs to recognize the new cord. I actually used my xbox360 cord that happens to be the same size and withstands the same electrical output. This solution works for the four blinking lights issue, case closed. Your next move is solution #9, this needs to be reported to a higher authority immediately as we (the consumers) have been robbed.
Posted on Apr 01, 2010
Solution # 6 worked for me. My problem was the same (i.e. 6 fast red blinks then 3 slow red blinks). I've summarized the solution below:
Step 1: Purchase a new power cord from Radio Shack for $10
Step 2: Plug in the new power cord and turn the TV on. It will likely turn off again and start blinking red. Unplug it completely until the the power is totally drained from the TV, then turn it on again. Do this 3 - 4 times and the TV should finally stay on. It did for me.
Posted on Mar 14, 2010
Solution 7 is correct. I did what was recommended and my TV is now working again. I want to thank the individual of Solution 7. Saved me a lot of money.
Posted on Jan 21, 2010
Replaced the power cord, as suggested by Wayland Williams, and the unit came back to life. I would try using a new power cord with tighter fitting plastics so there cannot be any loose connections.
Posted on Jan 08, 2010
Replace the main board , cost around $127,00 at ebay
easy fix .
Posted on Apr 08, 2011
I will never ever buuy another tv made from Philips. Spent over $3,000 for both TV's and both had same problem, not at the same time. The blinking red lights. The answer is bring it into someone who repairs Philips and 99% time it will be the power supply plug(box). Good luck.
Posted on Oct 18, 2010
Does anybody know anyone in Toronto, Canada that can help me with this same problem for a reasonable fee? I love my TV and don't want to buy another TV if I can save this one.
Thank you in advance.....
Posted on Jun 09, 2010
There are literally thousands of us consumers who are experiencing weird red lights that randomly blink a certain amount of time. I am one of the MANY thousands. And we all have another thing in common. We are not handling this problematic situation in a professional matter. We're just asking for help from other people on the internet to save a quick buck or two. So lets all resolve this problem once and for all. Go to BBB.org (Better Business Bureau) and complain about our problems. I have already done so. File a complaint against Philips Electronics (no address needed) because they have made a product, specifically plasma televisions, that creates problems for thousands of us. If you're like me, then you paid $1700 for a 50" piece of $#!+. I did not drop my tv. I did not hit my tv. I love my tv and it just sits there on top of my table to be looked at and to be loved. So why in the hell did it all of a sudden stop working and these damn red lights keep blinking?! Don't try to repair it. Don't bring it to a repair shop. Don't just sit there and complain. Do something about it and the best thing you or anyone can do is file a complaint. Ever hear about "ring of death" for the xbox 360 gaming console? Google it. It so happens that thousands of people who owned an xbox 360 got the ring of death (including myself) and complained about it (and its only a fourth of the cost of a 50" Philips). Microsoft had to alleviate the problem by extending the warranty for another 3 years. And if you got the ring of death then you had the option to send your xbox 360 in and get it fixed. All for free! We shouldn't let these multi-millionaire dollar businesses get away with creating a product that cost over a thousand dollars to go out on us over a three year period. TVs are supposed to last a long time especially now with the years of research and development. So you're telling me all the research and development was done to see how they can get consumers to dump more money in their business? Ridiculous. This is not a joke. Go to BBB.org and file a complaint against Philips Electronics. I already have and you should too. Please! Then all of our problems SHOULD be resolved free of charge. If this doesn't work out for me, then I will find the nearest Philips Store and leave my broken TV in front of their door (there will be a post-it note saying "here is your piece of $#!+ back") But lets say this DOES work. Philips can redeem themselves by gaining a relationship with people who have problems and fixing our problems for free (or replacing). There are many 'recalls' including car parts, toys for babies/kids, etc. and maybe Philips just doesn't know how many people are having this dilemma (i'm chuckling right now because i know, they know). SO LET OUR VOICES BE HEARD! Take 20 minutes out of your busy schedule and file a complaint (I have 3 kids and work overtime everyday so I am busy too). Microsoft did it for their xbox 360 console that only costs $300. My TV is $1700 so it better be fixed. Philips should repair or replace our TVs, or they should go out of business!
Posted on Dec 28, 2009
I HAVE A PHILIPS 42PF7321D/37 PLASMA TV POWER ON SOMETIME. SOMETIME IT POWER ON,BUT IF I UNPLUG THE AC CORD WITHOUT PRESS THE POWER BUTTON TO TURN THE SET OFF. IT WON'T POWER BACK ON WHEN i PLUG BACK IN THE AC CORD.WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM.
SOMETIME THE UNIT POWER ON AND SOME TIME IT WON'T.
ON THE POWER SUPPLY BOARD THE GREEN LED LIT UP.
WHEN I PRESS THE POWER BUTTON THE RELAY WON'T ACTIVATE. IF THE RELAY DO ACTIVATE THE SET WILL WORK.BUT IF I UNPLUG THE AC CORD AND PLUG IT BACK IN THE SET WON'T TURN ON. DO YOU KNOW WHAT COULD BE THE PROBLEM? IF YOU DO PLEASE HELP.
Posted on Sep 09, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It is your Y sus board. Most of the time one of the buffers goes bad and takes out the Y sus. If you do the repair.YOU NEED TO REPLACE BOTH BUFFER BOARDS also. If your buffers are bad,they will dammage your new board.If you have a multimeter you can check if the buffers are shorted.Check the upper buffer by placeing one lead to the first pin of the black connector and the other lead on the third pin.You should have 500 or more ohms resistance.If none,reverse the leads. If your reading is less than 200 ohms like about 70-120 ohms even reversing the test leads. Your board is bad. Testing the lover buffer is about the same,Just test the last pin,and the third to the last pin. same results apply. If you install your new Ysus with a buffer that is bad,it will short out the diode "D5018" on the Y sus.Near the upper black connector,or even short out the main IC.You can also have your board rebuilt, There is a company on Ebay. I have used them once. Worked great. And fast as hell..o delivery. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 05, 2010
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