For weeks now we have had our basement heat set to 90 because of it being soo cold outside, now all of a sudden the heat stopped working. We checked the breaker box and nothing was tripped. We even turned the breakers on and off again and still nothing. We also checked the batteries in the thermostat on the wall but it has good batteries in it. Could this be a problem with the wires behind the baseboard?? Please Help !...Lisa
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well lets start with the 2" pvc pipe. that is a combustion air intake it does not put air into the room, i hope. this is a 90% furnace and they should have installed it that way. there should be 2 pipes to the outside the other is combustion gases. the dust problem maybe caused by the air return pulling the air to that room. the bedroom normaly does not get the trafic that the rest of the condo does.so it would not have as much dust.
It is not the size of the room that is important it is the heat loss of said room. If it is a inside room, with no outside walls, it will take less btu's to heat and maintain comfort levels, where as if it is a room with floor to ceiling windows, you will obviously need more btu input. Hope this helps.
If you are referring to the outside unit freezing up, the issue is in the defrost cycle. The defrost cycle works something like this: The unit reverses the flow of freon causing the inside coil to blow cold air into the conditioned space and the outside coil is now working like an a/c unit, it gets warm to melt the frost/ice. The inside unit electric heat strips come on so you do not notice the cold air being blown in. The fan on the outside unit stops running to allow the coil to get good and warm.
Now the unit should go into the defrost cycle every 90 minutes or so. It should not terminate the cycle untill the coil is clear of frost. There is an "Klixon" type termostat that measures the temperature of the outside coil. This is most likely the problem. It is prematurely terminating the defrost cycle. I'd start there first.
Hope this helps, Let me know if I can be of any further help.
you must really love your hydro co
those heaters are a huge draw on your bill
why not install radiant heat they are cheep now in compairison
the unit is a central mount run the line in a loop arround basement and conect all the heaters in drop lines off the main line small thermostat valve for each room to control heat
cost is more for unit but savings are greater too they now make a light duty units designed for your porpose
single direct electric heaters are pigs on the hydro bell if you have gas or electric it is cheeper to run a small boiler or heat on demand system
An electric dehumidifier includes a refrigeration cycle that is very similar to a window AC units and refrigerators. They cool the air in the basement to condense and collect water and remove humidity, heat the air as a required consequence of the refrigeration cycle and dump it back to your basement.
Two sources of humidity in basements include warm outside air that naturally cools due to below grade earth contact and water passing from the ground though the floors and walls and evaporating into the basement. Dehumidifiers do most of the work in the summer when higher temperatures outside enable air to hold more water content.
In the winter, cooler outside air contains less moisture by weight eventhough it may be raining and the relative humidity in basement will be less because the air is warmed relative to the outside. The lower moisture content in the winter also absorbs the water passing through the walls and floor.
From an energy perspective, you may want the humidity set NOT below 50%. This will keep humidity below the level mold desires, but prevents the dehumidifier from doing more work and eating more energy than needed. A cheap battery powered temp/humidy meter left in your basement will help. Sources that include the "mold triangle" (temperature, water & food) often separate fact from expensive hype.
If the dehumidifier doesn't keep up, consider adding a moisture barrier to the basement walls and floors such as Dry-lock and floor paints to ****** moisture entry. Moisture barriers act very similar with water as insulation does with heat. They don't eliminate the need for a dehumidifier, but they reduce the work they do and energy they eat.
measure each room you want to heat. multiply the length x width, this will give you the square footage of the room to be heated, multiply that by 10 and that is the number of watts needed to heat the room using 220/240v baseboards.