You may have a problem with your Temp Switch or the Sensor Thermistor. Very easy to check and fix depending on your technical ability. Both of these parts are connected off the Automatic Temperature Control Board.
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Open door check wash arm position start washer for a minute
Confirm wash arm has rotated
Check for plugged spray tips at either end of wash arm.
Use small tweezers to remove
Check for rack and dishes interfering with arm rotation
Place cup in upper rack with opening up cycle washer.
Confirm that cup quickly fills with water
Not washing check water level in tub mim 1 1/2 inch
Discontinue use of rinse/dry liquid additive.
Confirm rinse/dry additive not leaking from dispenser into tub
Washer detergent contains sparkle additive and too much sparkle/rinses/dry additive will coat dishes
Try alternative wash detergent that contains minimal rinse/dry additive and use without liquid rinse/dry additive.
It will take several wash cycles after the elimination of rinse/dry to purge the oily film from dishes and machine..
If success "joy" is achieved with no additives then cautiously add back wash detergent with additives. Additives are important to facilitate drying and protecting the glassware china from leaching. The leaching process permanently etches the surface of glassware leaving a cloudy appearance.
Could be something as simple as the solenoid fill valves for the water if you using a different temp for rinse from the wash cycle (warm wash cold rinse) in that case the cold side of the valve could have failed, in which case you'd be getting hot water for the wash and no water for the rinse and, without the fill, the cycle won't proceed from that point.
I have a Sears front load washer and I also noticed that on a cold wash/cold rinse cycle the machine was drawing hot water.
Laundry detergents require water to be at a certain temperature to aid in disolve. The machine adds sufficient hot water, regardless of the cycle, until that temp is reached. If I was to use a cold water detergent the machine, because it has no way of knowing which detergent I'm using, will still add hot water until that minimum temp is released. I don't know if there are machines available which include detergent type as an option?
I was partially wrong on my diagnosis. No cold water enters on either the wash or the rinse cycles. I also heard odd noises from the inlet valves. I realized the cold water valve was not opening. I've ordered the mixing valve and plan to replace it as soon as it comes in.
When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it. Good luck!
It sounds like you have the hot and cold water lines to the washer reversed.
Try turning off the tap for the hot water then setting the washer to just cold wash and then hot washif you get nothing on the cold and cold water when set to hot they are probably reversed. Typically if the auto-temp control is broken you will only get hot or cold coming out on any setting.
is washer less than a year old? if so call reapir ..there was an issue with the temp controls on a small number of those machines they use an electronic control in what looks like a mechanical switch..if over a yr old could still be a temp switch but be sure hoses are connected correctly and on a rinse cycle the water does come in hot ..don't worry too much about wash cycles temp is controlled to to prset temps and is based on final water temp in tub after fill not incoming water temp