I have had the amp working for months i disconnecter the sub today with the power off to change the box attached the same sub in the same connector on the amp yet all i get i nothing the green lightfor power comes on and i have a red protect light that now glows i have checked and double checked the wires but nothing please help its driving e nuts
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Re: my amp is on but no sound
Did you disconnect the battery? You may have bowwn a fuse, but that prolly wouldnt give you a protect light. Protect light usually means a short circuit, probably on the speaker end, sure there couldnt be maybe a single strand of wire crossing over the positive and negative speaker or amp terminals.
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First disconnect the CD head unit from the sub amp and see if the other amp works. If yes, the problem is the wires to the amp, the amp itself, or the subs/sub wiring. If no, the problem is the head unit--probably an internal short. If the other amp works with the sub amp disconnected, reconnect the sub amp to the head unit, but disconnect the sub wires from the amp. Try the CD player. If the amp goes to protect with no speaker wires attached, the amp is bad. If the amp is OK, the problem is the subs or sub wires. Hook the wires up to the amp again, but disconnect them from the speakers. Try the player again. If the amp goes to protect, the problem is the amp wiring. If not, the problem is the subs. Check the impedance of each sub using an ohmmeter to determine which amp is out of spec. Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using Fixya.
it sounds like it could be a blown channel in the amp. if the sub was blown it would still work just sound horrible. i have blown many subs and amps. you can bring it to an audio shop near you and they can fix it. i just got one of my channels fixed for 35$
sounds like the amp is in protection mode. try disconnecting the subs and see it the light changes to green. if it does then the subs are your problem. if the light was allways red while it was working then the subs may be disconnected inside the box or have gone bad. try using a diffrent speaker and connect to the amp.
this is caused by inproper wiring from the speakers/subs to the amplifier.. an amp will still put out power to subs and speakers when it's wired improperly but it won't last for very long doing it... 6 months is longer than usual....
you most likely mess up you wiring... im not sure what ohm resistance your subs are, but if its 2ohm or 4ohm you wire straight foreward one sub all positive wires to left positive, all negitive to left negitive, and the same with sub 2 to the right terminal. BUT if your subs are 8ohm then wire it with all positives from both subs to LEFT positive and wire all negitive wires to RIGHT negitive... and see if that helps and good luck!
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage drops below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
Almost all after market amps use 12v at very very low amperage to trigger the amp on. A temporary jumper from the battery plus terminal on the amp AFTER the battery and ground wires are attached should cause the amp to turn on. I would check to see if you have attached your speaker load correctly ESPECIALLY if you are bridging. Most of the blown amps that come into my shop are due to incorrect bridging loads from the speakers. Note that a 4ohm load bridged across both outputs of an amp will deliver a 2ohm load to each of the channels. When you parallel wire two 4ohm speakers together and then attached them to a bridged amp you will be putting a 1 (one) ohm load to each channel of the amp. Please don't make this mistake. It will fry your amp in about a month. Hope this helps. Good luck.