a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You haven't said how old the unit is.. After some use the heating elements get brittle, which is not really a problem until you physically move the dryer, as in moving house. Any sudden bumps and the brittle elements will just disintegrate.
Replacing with new (quite an easy operation) will rectify the problem. If the whole dryer was new when you moved then maybe BEKO will replace under warranty.
there is a cycling thermostat in line with the high limit thermostat and timer circuit,on timed dry its disabled and the timer will run no matter what,on any sensor dry setting it uses the heat of the element to heat this cycling thermostat to move the timer as the clothes get drier as the heating element heats the timer doesn't move,when the heater cycles off from the high limit thermostat then timer moves again,you need to find out if its a bad heating element,thermal fuse or possibly even a circuit breaker in the homes electrical panel tripped out on one of the 2 phases that gives you the 240 volts required to operate the dryer element,the breaker may not show its tripped,so shut it off and back on and try this first
The fuse is located on the blower housing and if it was blown the dryer would not run at all. The limits is mounted on the heater housing and that could kill the heat as well as a blown heating element. I worked on a similar dryer not long ago with a heating problem and did a video:
The thermal cut-off , which is the small t-stat looking piece located at the top of the element housing ( on vertical mount elements ) or the far front of the element housing ( on horizontal mount elements ) , is usually the cause for no heat .
The back panel doesn't come off for service!!! Most heating and control components are available behind the kick panel below the main dryer door.. With electric dryers my normal train of thought in diagnostics is to start with source of power. Do I have 220 volts available at the terminal board where the electric cord is connected??? Quite often I find a blown fuse, etc to cause it to stop heating as the motor will run fine on 120 volts as thats all it requires, but the unit will not heat with out 220 volts to the element.. best of luck, and have fun, ttfn
Is your dryer electric? Assuming so, you're probably right that the heating element has gone out if the drum is turning but there is no heat at all.
I don't know if you are a do-it-yourself type, but if you take the model/make/serial info to your appliance parts store, you can obtain the correct heating element and install it yourself.
I hope this helps... Good luck!
Sounds like the heating element or coil is out, but it could also be the board to. At any rate, if your not getting any heat what so ever, its more than likely electrical and its best to take it in. If it gets some kind of heat, then you might try cleaning out your dryer vents really good, and also in the dryer. Hope this helps.