Honeywell TZ-4 HVAC controller; 4 zones hooked up with power up zone closure dampers ; 3 zones w/ 2 dampers; 1 zone w/ 1 damper. Worked fine for first couple of days as should have. Now will only work if all zones are calling for heat leaving all zone dampers in naturally open position. Transformer is 24 volt a/c 75va. Voltage at 26 volts to 27 volts regardless of load. When first zone satisfy's within seconds it goes into purge mode opening all dampers and shutting down the furnace. Will not allow furnace to operate again until all zones call for heat? Any ideas??
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Choose two colors of the thermostat wire, and connect them to the NO and COM and connect them to the zone control board leads for the zone intended. Almost all zone valves spring return open when deenergized. So ensure the zone valve is open with the system is off. At the base of zone valve there is a set screw that needs to engage the damper valve shaft in the open position with the motor in the spring release position. Most zone valve are 90 degree moment from full open to full shut. If you have a Carrier zone valve, they go full open to full shut in 45 degrees of motion. Your open stop need to be set so the valve stops in the full stop position.
To help understand the operation of a zone system, say you have 2 zone system and zone 1 thermostat initiates a heat or cool demand. Zone 2 valves energizes and shuts and zone 1 stays open and allow air to heat/ cool zone 1. If zone 2 thermostat simultaniously initiates the same heat/cool demand, the zone 2 valve opens and both zone heat/cool. When either thermostat is satisfied the opposite zone valve closes and when both thermostat are satisfied both zone valves open.
Hope this helps you understand zone operation. The same works for higher multizone systems.
remove cover and look for a micro switch labeled purge press and hold for three seconds all zones will reset all dampers will open equipment fan will run for up to five minutes and a yellow lite will flash
Zoned forced air systems that use multiple thermostats that can start a single heating and cooling unit from each stat and condition just that space that called it, are conditioned by the auto damper you are referring to. These dampers are normally spring closed and driven open using a small 24 volt motor (Called an Actuator or Operator) connected to the stat that operates the damper motor with a relay. Disconnect the damper crank arm and linkage between the damper and its motor and see if the damper rotates closed. See if the damper will move freely. Power and remove power from the motor to see if it works. Doing these things will probably find the problem. Good Luck. Roger
Zoning, in the A/C world, refers to different areas of the house which may be cooled to different temperatures. Zoning is accomplished by closing/opening vents.
Zone 1, 2, 3 etc. do not have any particular meaning, except to indicate zone control flappers 1, 2, 3 etc. which are physically inside the ductwork which determines the zoned area.
Just because you have this fancy thermostat, does not mean that your house is actually zoned, but I am not to sure why such a thermostat would be purchased if it was not (unless it was free).
Zoning uses dampers. Is there air blowing out of the registers?
You need to have someone evaluate the ductwork for the home. With all zones calling, there should be an even balance of airflow. And when only one zone is calling, there should not be the tornado effect you describe.
The dampers feeding each zone may be of the wrong size. It also sounds as though you are also having a problem with your bypass damper. This damper is designed to bypass excess air when only one zone is calling. It is operated typically off the airflow alone.
Have it check out. You definitely have a problem. I would recommend getting it looked at by a company other than the installing company to remove any bias judgment or diagnosis.
The power to your zone panel is from the furnace or air handler. There is a 3 or 5 amp fuse on the circuit board inside the furnace or air handler. I hope this helps. Please don't forget to give me a Fixya rating.
You will need a control to operate motorized zone dampers. In the ductwork, you will install a damper in each line going into the area you want zoned. If you have air conditioning you will also require a barometric relief damper that allows air to pass thru the ductwork and not restrict air over your A/C coil. Common controls are made by Honeywell and EWC.
If you already have the control module, you will run two or three (low voltage) wires from each motorized damper back to the control. Your thermostat wires (also low voltage) will run from each thermostat to the control module and connect to a zone relay. Match each zone by number. You will need to run power to the control module that will provide power to the thermostats as well as the motorized damper. Check on the reverse side of the control module and/or check on the web to find the wiring diagram.
No. If it's power open and power close you need 3 wires at both locations. If it has a spring you could get away with 2 wires. Depending on how hard it would be to run a new wire you do have the option of changing the damper.