1987 Toyota Camry Logo
Posted on Feb 21, 2010

Cam sprocket timing for 86 Toyota 2SE engine

My 86 Camry (256k/mi) had low power since we got it (180k/mi). The timing was retarded ~10deg but setting it correctly made engine ping badly. Took to 2 mechanics - one said timing was off and set it to specs (he never test drove it...), drove it around block and had him put it back. Took it to another mechanic, he said it needed fuel injector system flushed and cleaned (let him do it, of course didn't help). He then said it could be either distributor, engine management computer, or cam timing might be incorrect as sprocket has more than one way to install and last guy to change timing belt might have done it incorrectly - each option would cost about $300 to pursue. I decided to drive it as-is until recently the timing belt broke (yes, I procrastinated).

I used to do all my own automechanic work so decided to replace belt myself. I want to verify proper position of cam sprocket but having hard time finding clear information. Manuals say to line up sprocket w/ drive (index) pin - my sprocket has a hole or a slot that will fit drive pin (it was on the hole when disassembled). The manuals also say to line up hole in sprocket w/ marks on cam seal housing, my cam sprocket has two sets of holes about ~180deg apart (one hole has pink paint mark by it). I found on internet a copy of factory manual http://www.yotarepair.com/2-SEtimingbelt.html showing proper installation but says nothing about a hole and slot in sprocket or 2 sets of timing holes. It did say if crankshaft pulley angle was not within specifications when cam is on TDC mark to adjust the valve timing "(see step 7 on pages EM-20 and 21)". Of course those pages were not available.

I would greatly appreciate an experienced answer - I have already looked in all of the normally available manuals at the library and they all have the same basic (vague) information and no detailed pictures showing which hole or even mentioning there being more than one. My next recourse I guess would be to throw myself on the mercy of the local Toyota dealer to see if they will divulge the deep dark seceret.

1 Answer

Anonymous

Level 1:

An expert who has achieved level 1.

  • Contributor 1 Answer
  • Posted on Feb 21, 2010
Anonymous
Contributor
Level 1:

An expert who has achieved level 1.

Joined: Feb 21, 2010
Answers
1
Questions
0
Helped
1261
Points
0

Cam sprocket gear for nissan v6, I need left and right both, so this parts is for obtain more power of torque, were I found this parts?
I looking for that could move some degres when I decide.
thanks for u time, raymond m.
[email protected]

  • MartyST161 Dec 06, 2010

    i have a 2se in my 86 celica. came acrossed the same problem. pink dot equals 180 degrees off. it's the opposite hole that lines it up. what you have to do is set #1 cylinder to tdc and set your camshaft at the tdc. which is 180 of the pink dot. then when you tighten up the ajustment pulley. once the timing belt is set up. then set it to 10 degrees before tdc. set in your distributor to fire at #1 cylinder. then when all is back together. turn it on. do not tighten the distributor all the way down. so once you do start the car, you can turn the the distributor till the engine sounds the best.

    and ta da

×

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1helpful
1answer

I have a '86 toyota pickup with the 22R engine. This engine is carbureated with dual vacuum advance.

There is a fundamental problem with your explanation. You say that at 2000rpm your timing retards past 0? Your timing should be advancing. Hence the term mechanical advance and vacuum advance. Your base timing should be in the area of 10-15 degrees and with your advance, should end up close to 20 under load. Are you certain that you have an advance issue and not a power issue? A weak coil can cause missfire under load. Or check for a clogged catalytic converter.
0helpful
1answer

I m looking for torque settings for Toyota 3s fe main bearings,bigend bearing and cylinderhead bolts

A-series: 1.5L, 1.6L and 1.8L, belt-driven overhead cam motors used in Corollas, later Celicas, early Tercels, Chevy Novas (NUMMI-built), and Geo Prizms;
E-series: 1.4L and 1.5L overhead cam, belt-driven engines used in '88 and up Tercels and Paseos;
F-series: 3.9L, 4.0L, 4.2L, pushrod straight six engines used in Landcruisers;
R-series: 1.8L/2.4L, overhead cam, chain-driven engines used in rear wheel drive only Coronas, older Celicas and pickups;
M-series: 2.2L through 3.0L overhead cam straight six engines used in Cressidas and Supras;
S-series: 2.0L and 2.2L belt-driven OHC engines used in Camrys, Celicas and MR2s;
VZ-series: 2.5L, 3.0L and 3.4L V6 engines used in Camrys, pickups, Lexus ES and T100s;
UZ-series: 4.0L V8 engines used in the Lexus LS400 and SC400.
Toyota manufactures motors from the very small up to large industrial diesels, so this is only a partial listing of the more common engine families. However, hopefully this information will bring some sense of order to the confusing alphabet soup of Toyota engine classifications.
The 2.0LLet's take a look at the 2.0L used in the late '80s Camry & Celica. The code for this engine is 3SFE. The S-series engines are a mid-sized, transverse mounted four-cylinder used in Camrys, Celicas, some MR2s, and other Toyota vehicles. The first letter (after the initial numeral) is an "S" and means that this engine belongs to the "S" group of motors. The "3" signifies the third change in bore/stroke to the S-group of motors.
So, what about other motors? A 3SGE used in the Celica GTS ('86-'89) is the same as the 3SFE in bore and stroke, uses the same block, is also fuel injected, but the cylinder head is a true dual overhead cam with both cams being externally driven. There was also a 3SGTE used in Celica turbos, and MR2 turbos. This is basically the same motor as the 3SGE with the exception of the "T" which stands for turbocharged.
In the S-family of motors that were available in the U.S., there was also a 2SE used in the early Camrys. They had a different bore and stroke and single overhead cam design (no "F" or "G"). Current Camrys are using a 5SFE - externally identical to the 3SFE - except that the bore and stroke have been upped to 2.2L from 2.0L, and a pair of balance shafts were added to the lower end. Toyota's other engine families follow the same pattern. Now for a little more detail on "S" family differences.
The 2SEThe 2SE belongs to the "S"-series engine family. The 2 signifies the second revision of that group of motors. (So where is the 1S-motor? I'm assuming either it was not available in the U.S. or maybe was just a prototype that never entered production). The "E" stands for fuel injected.
The 2SE was first used in the U.S. with the introduction of the front wheel drive Camry. This was a single overhead cam 2.0L motor with bucket tappets with "hockey puck" adjusting discs. Bore and stroke were 84mm (3.307") x 90 mm (3.540"). In 1986 the Celica moved to a front wheel drive platform and it also used the 2SE motor in '86 in the ST and GT models.
The 3SFEFor 1987, the Camry and Celica base motor was changed to a square bore 86mm x 86mm and a "twin cam" head. It was still 2.0L, but the designation was now 3SFE. The 3 obviously meant the 3rd revision of the "S"-series engine family, and the "E" we know to mean EFI.
The "F" code that Toyota uses stands for twin cam or dual overhead cam, however, only one of the cams is externally driven. (Don't confuse this "F" with Toyota's F-series family straight six engine used in Landcrusiers). The 3SFE was used in Camrys from 1987-'91, and in Celicas from '87-'89.
Toyota has actually brought this motor back and it is used in the new mini-sport utility RAV4. I haven't seen any of the motors from the RAV4, so I'm really not sure what differences there are.
For now let's focus on the '87-'91 Camry/Celica version. There are some 4WD Camrys out there, Toyota called them All-Trac, and there should be some differences in the block and head. However, those vehicles should be few and far between. So other than the 4WD cars and the RAV4, the 3SFE application will pretty much fit all years.
There are a few things you should watch out for. These include the following:
•The number of flywheel bolts in the crankshaft. In 1987 there were six, and in '88 and up there were eight. There may be, however, some overlap within those two years;
•The cranks and flywheels are interchangeable. You can either have the customer visually verify the number of flywheel bolts, or you can just furnish the appropriate flywheel (automatic or manual) and not worry about the number of bolts;
•Stiffening ribs were added to the block in '89. The ribs may interfere with the larger older style oil filter. Make sure the new smaller oil filter is used if you use a newer block in an older vehicle.
The 3SGEThe Celica GTS from '86-'89 used a 3SGE motor. Still an "S"-series, it has the same bore and stroke as the 3SFE. The big difference is in the head, hence the "G" instead of the "F". The "G" is a true DOHC with both cams being externally driven, and the valves splayed outwards at a wider angle giving more of a pent-roof design to the combustion chamber. In the lower end, 3SGEs used a steel crankshaft and bushed rods along with different pistons.
The 3SGTEThere is also a 3SGTE used in the All-Trac turbo Celica ('88-'93) and MR2 turbo ('91-'95). The "T" stands for, you guessed it, turbocharged. There are some differences in the block, head, and some of the internal parts that are specific to the turbo motor.
The 5SFEThe 5SFE is a 2.2L with a bigger bore and stroke (87mm x 91mm). This motor was introduced in the Celica and MR2 in 1990 and the Camry in 1992. It was still being used in the Camry in 1997. The 5SFE added a pair of balance shafts in the oil pan driven off of the crankshaft in 1992.
That's a very quick tour of Toyota's "S" series engines. Remember the first number is the revision number of that group. The second digit (letter) is the engine family/grouping. The third digit, if an F or a G, stands for which type of OHC design.
Here's a quick rundown on what parts you can and can't interchange on the 2S and 3S engines:
CRANKSHAFTS•The 2SEs are all six-bolt. The 3SFEs are cast and may be either 6- or 8-bolt.
•The 3SGEs are steel and eight-bolt.
•The 3SGTE: I'm not sure if the turbo motor used the same crank as the non-turbo 3SGE. I think it did, but I'm not 100% sure because I haven't seen any turbo motors.
CONNECTING RODS•The 2SE and 3SFE both use the same press fit rod.
•The 3SGE and 3SGTE both use the same bushed rod.
BLOCKS•The 2SE is a block by itself. It has a unique 84 mm bore.
•The 3SFE and 3SGE blocks may be interchanged, however, be aware of the differences in the later strengthened blocks with additional ribbing.
•The 3SGTE. It would be a good idea to custom build the turbo blocks unless you know specifically more about the differences of the
VZ-FE 2.0L (78mm X 69.5mm): This 2.0L engine was used in the Japanese home market Camry/Vista models and was not available in the United States.
2VZ-FE 2.5L (87.5mm X 69.5mm): This engine was available for Camry 1988-'91 and the Lexus ES250 1990-'91. The 2VZ-FE is a 2.5L version of the "VZ" family. This motor has Toyota's twin cam per head set up, hence the "FE" designation.
North America saw this motor introduced on the FWD 1988 Toyota Camry and 1988 Lexus ES250 (which was really a dressed up Camry). Featuring four valves per cylinder; it put out 156 hp @ 5600 rpm and 160 ft.lbs. of torque @ 4400 rpm.
The design of the motor is basic Toyota from the 1980s, with cast iron block, a one-piece main bearing cradle, aluminum heads and a timing belt driving the intake camshafts, which operate bucket lifters with adjusting discs. The buckets and discs are the same ones used in Toyota's 16-valve A-, S- and M-series.
four camshafts
0helpful
1answer

How do I, set up timing gears & timing chain on 1966 chrysler 383 big block.

You use the "0" keyway, the others are for modified engines with aftermarket cams.
0helpful
1answer

Camry timing belt

I am assuming you are referring to a 2.2 liter 5SFE engine. If so camshaft timing mark is dot located on forward face of sprocket mid spoke/or a notch on inboard rim of sprocket. locate mark and paint with white paint. Locate timing mark-small raised dot on plate behind sprocket at approx. one o-clock position paint this white for easy reference. Crank shaft sprocket has small notch on inboard rim. paint white for reference. align cam timing marks, then align crankshaft mark with #0 on timing scale. Adjust tensioner and belt is aligned. I recommend changing idler pulleys and water pump when replacing belt as preventative maintenance. Also inspect shaft oil seals and replace as needed. Performing these services now will save time and money in the future.
0helpful
1answer

Idle problem

what engine? # cylinders , displacement.????????????

ok, the EFI is in charge of idle speed at all times.

low speed ,usually means the EGR is stuck wide open

the main valve. clean it ever 50k and no more.

ill list some other common, ways, (not guessing, i do tests)

1: EGR stuck.

2: someone set the ignition timing way retarded

3: the cam timing is way retarded. (zero service caused)

4: flooding,

5: starving for fuel.

6: ISC valve stuck closed.

7: horrid need of a basic tuneup. 60k mile full service scheduled parts.
0helpful
1answer

Have an 88 toyota camry. was fine when we bought it but put in shop for water pump and distributor failed. now the car has no take off power but once moving does fine. engine revs up good but feels like...

Sounds like the ignition timing is retarded too much. When the distributor was replaced it sounds like the timing was incorrectly set. Hope this helps...
4helpful
3answers

1995 toyota camry leaking oil from behind the timing belt cover. Isn't this a major repair? Is the leak more than likely a camshaft seal?

If you haven't had the timing belt replace (60,000 miles is the suggested service intervale) this is an overlap of having the timing belt replaced.
If the timing belt is not due for replacement and its the cam shaft seal that is leaking. Its a pretty easy fix. Remove the top timing belt cover , and the crankshaft sensor wiring you may have to remove the front engine mount . Set #1 piston at TDC, Loosen tensioner w/ spring slip off belt. **Remove sprocket pull out old seal with a sharp pick. Greese and install new seal make sure its flush with its bore . Reistall sprocket. Slide belt over Cam sprocket tighten tensioner. Install cover and mount (if applicable) Check timing marks by turning crank two revolutions.
** If CamSprocket Bolt is difficult to remove then remove valve cover and use a 21mm wrench to hold the Camshaft while you crack off Cam Sprocket Bolt.
You will see the groves on the Camshaft where you can place a wrench to hold the shaft.
After you replaced the seal replace the valve cover gasket ONLY IF YOU HAD TO REMOVE THE COVER TO HOLD THE CAM WHILE REMOVING ITS BOLT.

This is about as major as it gets.
4helpful
1answer

Timing marks

If u cannot obtain the itming marks, u mite have to time the engine by first pricnciple. Ensure that #1 cylinder is @ TDC (compression stroke). Install the camshaft making sure that the cam lobes for #1 cylinder are on the lower side and not on the tip of the cam. Also when installing the distributor, ensure that it's set to spark @ #1 cylinder. In modern day vehicles, the distributor can only be fitted one way so theree is no need to time the ignition timing via distributor. If this is too much, u can check the crankshaft & camshaft sprocket for distinct timing markings . This should be checked when the components are clean
Not finding what you are looking for?

1,271 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Toyota Experts

ZJ Limited
ZJ Limited

Level 3 Expert

17989 Answers

Thomas Perkins
Thomas Perkins

Level 3 Expert

15088 Answers

ROBERT GARCIA
ROBERT GARCIA

Level 3 Expert

926 Answers

Are you a Toyota Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...