Does the table spin in manual mode? Does table spin in auto mode? Does arm leave the armrest and stops then, slowing the table? If so, the cam wheel's grease has dried up. If Arm stops dead before reaching the set size and descents in the wrong position but the table is spinning? Then the size-selector is jammed. (Spring broken, dirt, dried up grease?) !! Since I'm not familiar with this type of turntable, I implore you to seek help on this with someone who has knowledge on servicing this kind of deck !!
If you're handy enough to try it yourself and you trust yourself around the mechanics of these decks:
THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE IS AT YOUR OWN RISK!
Before starting work: make sure AC IS OFF and unit is disconnected from audio equipment. Risk of shock inside!
- Lock arm in its support and remove head-shell if possible, keep safe and away from the unit.
- Remove the turntable mat and/or the aluminum piece in the center of the turntable. Underneath it or the mat, you'll find a "C" shaped clip (cir-clip) holding the spindle and table. Gently remove clip and keep safe.
- Slowly lift the table from the spindle(-bus), and lay aside so it won't get damaged. (If the table is forced on or stuck snug on spindle:
carefully slide wedges of wood in a circle underneath the turntable, elevating it slightly. Now lightly tap the spindle with a small plastic/rubber mallet until it releases.)
- We now see the spindle(-bus) and at about one o'clock right next to it, hidden under the chassis, the cam (gear) wheel to which a pivoting lever is attached which sets the record size and guides the arm, One side "reads" the cam wheel, conveying the movements according to what is "read", such as setting record size and moving the arm to the record.
On sliding the switch to AUTO. a small "cog" or latch is "inserted" into an indentation in the cam wheel, "completing" the cam wheel. The gear cast at the bottom center shaft of the platter has a protrusion which locks on to this "trip latch cog" causing the cam gear to rotate counter clockwise and run its "program".
This small piece of metal which is essential for auto play, record- change and shut off, may freeze up in time as the factory applied grease "sets" or dries up as years pass by.
- Now that you found the "wheel of misfortune": you can start disassembling the mechanism of the player...
- Gently lift the unit from/ out of its casing/ plinth and turn it upside down. Be sure to give slack to the mains cable and audio cord! Make sure the unit is fully supported to prevent damaging the arm.
- Locate the big gear or cam wheel. Which is hidden under a bunch of metal latches and bars, just left of the motor-casing.
- Have a sheet of small sticker labels ready and number those. 1 through xx.
- You're now ready to disassemble the mechanism piece by piece.
- DO NOT use excessive force to take mechanical latches apart
but look closely before taking them out or you may end up with bent parts which will become useless! Cir-clips may launch themselves into oblivion upon removal, so use a cloth covering them when removing these with a pair of small pliers or a small screwdriver. !! WARNING !!Remember tension spring mounting positions, because they are essential in an automatic record-player. If re-assembled the wrong way again this may result in negative performance with damaging results!
- Put a numbered sticker on each piece counting up. When reassembling the mechanics you count backwards (down) again. (highest number first!) Try to remember which part goes where. Even better, take a photo before you disembowel the monster!
- De-grease the cam wheel "track slot" and the small trip "cog" (trip latch cog)
Trip latch "cog" next to the spindle-bus. On a Type A it may look different. but its function is the same. Right next to it; the track slot which is "read" and what guides the size selector and arm.)
- The trip latch cog should remain free from grease and or oil since those lubricants tend to attract dust. The only thing you may re-grease is the central shaft. Before doing so make sure all the OLD grease is removed. Clean out the center hole of the cam wheel with a cloth drenched in alcohol and a Phillips head screwdriver or thin pencil, fold cloth over screw driver, drench in alcohol and slowly push it through the center hole while twisting it slowly. Also degrease the hub on which the cam wheel sits.
- The "Reader" which runs through the cam wheel "track", should also be De-greased if possible, because this contains a small roller which rides and "reads" the "track" of the cam wheel and conveys the movements to the size selector and tone-arm.
- When done. re-grease the central hub with a small dab of bearing grease covering it entirely and fit the cam wheel back on. Attach the cir-clip which holds it in place. And gently piece the mechanism back together again, (remember, highest number first! counting back down and remove the sticker). Be patient
, clean each piece before reassembling and grease the parts if necessary with bearing grease. If needed, one can apply a tiny amount (!) of Singer-oil to pivoting or sliding parts...
- When done: turn unit over and unlock the arm. Sit unit on its side with mechanism facing towards you. (Assistance may be needed) Or:
Sit unit over a mirror with the platter mounted on. Make sure mechanism is well lit so you can see what actually happens. (make sure power is still off!) Slide the rightmost switch to "AUTO" and gently rotate the platter...
!! IMPORTANT !!
Check if the mechanism works correctly by SLOWLY rotating the cam wheel clockwise. Or if the platter is mounted on rotate it slowly by hand! DO NOT USE FORCE! If for some reason the mechanism jams or gets stuck, STOP, because there IS a REASON for it! Check out any error and repair.
- When finished: and the table runs its "program" correctly. Congrats! You just repaired your Garrard Type A turntable! Happy spinning!