How can i tighten the chain ? I have used all of the available slack on the outside reel so I need to remove the cover and adjust the chain. How do i do that?

its probably like the gas model. so you remove the 2 nuts holding on the side cover of the blade side, remove the cover and the blade and chain. To fit back, slacken the adjuster screw a little bit, or if fitting a new chain then a fair amount, as you have to be careful that the pin on the adjuster fits into the proper hole on the saw bar, as you fit back on the bar, of which you have already cleaned out the grooves. supporting the bar in the slackest position, fit on the chain, making sure that the cutting edge at the bottom is coming towards the motor. Then slide the bar and chain away from the motor to take up the slack, then fit back the metal guide in the original position, fit cover with the adjuster pin in its hole on the bar, and replace the 2 nuts almost tight but slack enough to use the adjuster to set the chain to cutting position..slightly sagging on the sprocket nose type, or snug on the solid nose type..then tighten the cover 2 nuts firmly but not excessively as that will damage the machine..NB the bar & chain depends on the adjuster, not on the nuts tightness to maintain tension

Remove the tank to access the top cover of the engine so the chain is accessible, hold the adjuster bolt, loosen the lock nut, then carefully take the slack out but not too tight, then tighten the lock nut to secure the assembly. replace the top cover gasket and the cover, and re-install the tank.

Remove the paper scroll from the printer. Turn off the power and make sure the print wheel has stopped moving.

Slide the printer cover toward the back of the machine to remove it. Lift out the old ribbon and replace it with the new one by facing the black side of the ribbon up. Secure one of the reels to its reel shaft, thread the ribbon around the outside of the metal guides, and secure the other reel to the opposite reel shaft.

Tighten any slack ribbon by turning one of the reels

Replace the print cover and reset the paper scroll.

Loosen 2 nuts that are on middle of inside end of bar closest to motor, on retaining plate. Dig out shavings & dirt on outside of that plate there is a recess hole. In it is a adjustment screw to tighten chain. Screw in till it takes up the slack in chain. Retighten 2 nuts when finished.

Normal 0 This will be the basic instruction for most common saws. Check that the chain brake is in disengaged position by moving the front hand guard towards the front handle if the saw is equipped with a chain brake on the handle. Loosen the bar nuts on the clutch cover. Loosen tension screw or other adjuster (thumbscrew) to allow the bar to be moved toward the engine. Some saws have this tension adjustment built into the bar. This will provide enough slack in the chain to able to reinstall it. It may be necessary to remove the side cover to gain access to the clutch/gear assembly on the side of the engine if the chain also jumped the gear here. Remove the cover, inspect for any debris or other obstructions in this area. If none, replace the chain back over the drive gear and in the bar groove all the way around the bar. It may be necessary to turn the bar adjuster screw more to provide enough slack in the chain to do this. Once the chain is in place reinstall the cover and bar lock nuts. Snug up the nuts but do not tighten these. Turn the bar/chain adjuster screw to tighten the chain on the bar (take up slack). I usually tighten to a point where there is no slack between the chain and the bottom of the bar and I can still turn the chain easily around the bar by hand. With experience you will get the feel for this chain tension. Once the chain is properly tensioned, tighten the bar lock bolts/ nuts on the side cover. I hope this helps you out.

Normal 0 This will be the basic instruction for most common saws. Check that the chain brake is in disengaged position by moving the front hand guard towards the front handle if the saw is equipped with a chain brake on the handle. Loosen the bar nuts on the clutch cover. Loosen tension screw or other adjuster (thumbscrew) to allow the bar to be moved toward the engine. Some saws have this tension adjustment built into the bar. This will provide enough slack in the chain to able to reinstall it. It may be necessary to remove the side cover to gain access to the clutch/gear assembly on the side of the engine if the chain also jumped the gear here. Remove the cover, inspect for any debris or other obstructions in this area. If none, replace the chain back over the drive gear and in the bar groove all the way around the bar. It may be necessary to turn the bar adjuster screw more to provide enough slack in the chain to do this. Once the chain is in place reinstall the cover and bar lock nuts. Snug up the nuts but do not tighten these. Turn the bar/chain adjuster screw to tighten the chain on the bar (take up slack). I usually tighten to a point where there is no slack between the chain and the bottom of the bar and I can still turn the chain easily around the bar by hand. With experience you will get the feel for this chain tension. Once the chain is properly tensioned, tighten the bar lock bolts/ nuts on the side cover.


Some Poulan Pros have an adjuster screw on the front of the engine case right beside the bar, some have a tool less adjuster on the clutch cover, and some have a slot in the bar for adjusting the chain tension.


I hope this helps you out.

A very comprehensive OM follows:
http://www.einhell-uk.co.uk/downloads/1840_Electric_Chainsaw.pdf
See page 11, The only thing I saw lacking is a caution to elevate the nose of the bar when making adjustments and tightening the side cover else it will require frequent adjustment (slack).

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck.
Lou
Thank You for using FixYa.
It appears to be a quality product. I wish they were available here.

Depending to what model you have, the Sprocket cover tab (located on the round part of the sprocket cover) isn’t inserted into the saw body tab slot. Or your cahin is not tensioned properly. According to the manufacturer... "The adjusting block on the adjusting screw isn’t inserted into the adjusting hole on the guide bar. Reinstall and align the sprocket cover by first removing the sprocket cover from the saw. Turn tensioning screw on the sprocket cover counter-clockwise until it stops. Pull guide bar away from saw body to remove slack from chain. Insert sprocket cover tab into saw body tab slot and lower sprocket cover into guide bar bolt. Finger tighten guide bar nut onto guide bar bolt. Slowly push guide bar toward saw body until adjusting block on the adjusting screw drops into round adjusting hole on the guide bar. Securely tighten guide bar nut after properly tensioning saw chain." If these tips do not work, you may need a new chain. You can order an new chain on-line at www.masterparts.net. I hope this helps you!

Look at the rear axle. There should be marks on both sides indicating where the axle is in relation to the swingarm. Note the position of the axle, then loosen the axle. There MAY be chain adjusters at the back end of the swingarm, but not all bikes have those. If yours does, as you look at the swingarm from the rear of the bike you will see two adjustment bolts. Tighten those up, and make sure you keep the axle position indicators the same on both sides. Your chain should have 1-2 inches of slack as you lift and press down on the middle of the longest run of the chain. Often there is a sticker on the swingarm that tells you how much slack is acceptable, do as the sticker says if it is there.

way outside the recomended slack (which is 20-30mm). Any suggestions as to what could be causing this? I am thinking there are two options: 1) the chain and sprockets are shot and need urgent replacement. 2) the rear axle bolt is shot and despite being tightened to the correct torque it is loosening as I ride. Has anybody got any advice on this? Any feedback is welcome. Adjust the chain to spec then mark the adjustment slider and the swingarm at a common piont on both sides of the wheel. Use a paintpen or steal some nail polish for this. Then see if the wheel moves as the chain slackens off when you ride. It sounds like your chain and sprockets are toast though.......,,