Sears front load he4 dryer model 110-85866400 is dead

Hope this helps
By Manage My LifeDecember 30th, 2011
Kenmore Elite Dryer HE4 Quietpak 9 Model 110.85091400 has 4 dim lights showing on the console display but won't start or respond
Our dryer just quit working yesterday and I am puzzled. There are four lights very dimly lit on the display. They are the Casual button, the Timed Dry button and two of the segments in the oval time window. I have found the information online about how to test with a multimeter to try and figure out which board is bad. Unfortunately all these instructions require you to have the dryer in the diagnostic mode by pressing the More Time/Less Time/More Time/Less Time in less than 5 seconds. When we do this it does nothing and will not enter the diagnostic mode. When I am testing with the multimeter on the P3/P4 connections I am not getting any readings of voltage at all. Is this because of not being able to get into the diagnostic mode? Should I still be getting readings? I know we have power to the dryer because the light still turns on when you open the door. The cost of buying both the main control board and the front console are prohibitive for us and I would like to only buy the one that is bad. I have also tried the testing with the multimeter on the front console buttons and also get no readings of ohms at all. We have a very busy household with lots of kids and this dryer is very essential to us so the quicker we can get this fixed the better. Thank you in advance for your help.

Besides the thermal fuse, the thermistor, main control board, door locking system and the problems all over youtube and google, the dryer may last you about a year or so. That is if you only do laundry one a year. The HE4's are ****. Have both washer and dryer for about 5 years. I could now be a sears repair man with the amount of knowledge I had to digest while fixing these things. NEVER, NEVER again will I buy kenmore!

is the dryer sensing strips clean? Could be some dryer sheet goopus on them causing intermittent sensing to clothes?

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

send the model number,open the door look around the opening where you put the clothes in you should see a tag there.if you unplugged it and it worked then it's not any of the t-stats or door switch most likely a board issue or something to do with the cord from moving it,when you unplug it and plug it back in your resetting the board so this is what it sounds like but can't tell if you even have a board without model number.

In my expierence with dryers you usually have to take the back pannel off not that one.

ya, first question? they said $1000.00 to fix?wow Did the tech give you that in writing?
ok, take off the bottom kick plate and you will see a pump right in the middle. there is a trap there unsrew the cap and get the stuff out of there., word of caution have towels ready cause when you take this off the water will come out. you should get as much water as you can at first.from the tub.you will not get all the water out.
let me know what you find.

Same problem, no panel lights, nothing, but drum light works. Several postings on othe sites say the cuicuitry board is faulty. Sears, in the Phillippines, or India, do notheing. Paid lots for this dryer, live alone and really don't abuse it or even use it that much. Is the there a class action suit maybe? all I want is for it to work!

FWIW ... the Sears guy came by yesterday. The problem was apparently that the door latch was not operating to the extent that the sensors thought the door was open. He is replacing the latch next week. He adjusted the old one in the mean tiome and it appears to be working fine.

This kind of stunned me, since my wife reported an electric zap and the interior light burned out as the dryer went dead -- so I was sure it would be a fried circuit board -- but, no, a little jiggling of the latch seemed to clear it up....

f11 is a communication issue between the 2 control units and wired through and latch assy. most common i find to be is the machine controller, up under the main top of unit, check all your wires!!!!!depending on board can either be 150 , or for the top of line model the part retails for close to 300 and thats just for the part let alone the service and labor

check at sears parts department they can brig it up on the cnnputer for you