I have a dualit 72402 kettle which is not heating,when put on base, switch will stay down and neon lights possibly the element has gone but I cannot unscrew base of kettle to check it,do you sell this tool and other spares to repair this kettle Many thanks Denis Field.

Check the Bi-Metallic Strip (Thermostat) of kettle. It may require replacement.

It's the manufacturers way of telling you, the appliance you love and use everyday has been rendered useless (by liability protection circuitry). Return for warranty repair/replace.

Had the same problem with a 3 yr old 1.5l Dualit model JKT43. The problem was that the little grey presence switch in the bottom of the kettle which engages with the pillar on the base had worn. I put 2 layers of electrical insulation tape around the pillar on the base and problem fixed. However, this is not a good permanent solution.

sounds as if you have a lose wire in the base or else you element has failed. Undo the bottom of the kettle and check all wires are connected to the element. If all the wires are connect i would say your element has blown.

Sounds like a problem with the element. If it's under warranty, take it back, otherwise contact a qualified repair person.

Very very dificult to replace. I have try it but then I have purchase a new complete base with element.

The dualit all electrical parts like elements and timer switch are all manufacture in china and they are not as they used to be. I have a customer with a toaster of 25 years old and we have replace only one heating element up to now. For recent models we replace electrical parts in about 2 to 3 years, some times every year as you describe.

Two possibilities:
1:A wire has come off your toaster switch or plug top,shorted and blown the fuse, and all you would need to do was refit wire and replace fuse.or
2:The element has gone........probably cheaper to buy a new one

Hope I have resolved you question, but please leave positive feedback if so , as it still takes time to answer questions and it would just be nice to know if I have helped

If the 'neon' light is on, the power is getting to the kettle, so if its not heating up then the element must have broken.

This kettle has a little white trip switch inside the 'socket' of the kettle (not the base unit). If its not heating, light is not on and the plug fuse is OK, then poke the white trip until it clicks.

I had a similar failure with my Braun WK600. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these are the likely culprit.
In my kettle the contacts did not line up correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal switch.
I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal switch.
I have boiled a couple of kettleful's; so far so good!

Oh, and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault.