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Koolatron m# ec-23 # 0606027131

THE UNIT WILL NOT COME ON IT JUST CLICKS CONTENTIOUSLY , THE GREEN LIGHT BLICKS & THE FANS TWITCH.

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  • Anonymous Mar 29, 2008

    THE UNIT WILL NOT COME ON IT JUST CLICKS CONTENTIOUSLY , THE GREEN LIGHT BLICKS & THE FANS TWITCH.

    SAME PROBLEM ON MINE,, ANY HELP??

  • Anonymous May 22, 2008

    I guess we were lucky. We have had our unit for over two years and love it, but sigh, the fan runs all the time, and now the cooling unit isn't as cold. It would help if there were schematics with the unit so could try to figure out what might be causing the trouble on one of the circuit boards. Called custmer service and lady wasn't helpful at all.





  • Anonymous Jul 22, 2008

    Unit - green light in back blinks continuously and does not cool.

  • jerrykelso Nov 06, 2008

    I have the exact same problem. The fan just clicks and the green light blinks. Does not cool at all.

  • Anonymous Nov 25, 2008

    fan does not work, just keeps clicking. frig does not get cold and the power light just keeps blinking.

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The EC-23 machine. If it is making the clicking sound . Unplug it empty it. unscrew the 6 screws holding the back on. You will see a couple of circuit boards. You want to repair the upper right board. It has a 1000uf 13.4 volts Capacitior that has failed. You can unsolder it remembering where the negative side is and positive side. Replace it with a 1000uf and any voltage above what the cap says. Never go under the voltage specified. I put a 45v 1000uf. I found these at Radio shack. Put the new one in. Put it back together and your good to go. Most important is to put the new Cap exactly the same way keeping in mind negative and positive. I don't hope it will work. I know it will work!. lol Follow my direction and the machine will be like new.

Posted on Dec 24, 2010

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  • edisoncomput Feb 21, 2011

    I tried this and it still didn't help me. When I plug in machine I get no green LED and I hear a humming/clicking noise from the power supply. The fan doesnt turn either. any suggestions?

  • rifster Mar 25, 2011

    i did what u said and so far it is working properly i put a 1000 uf 35 volt capacitor perfect so far
    you are right buddy thanks ralph

  • Bamaaddict Mar 30, 2011

    I was ready to throw it out. However I read your solution. I spent a whole $1.50 @ radio shack on 1 Capacitor and it works Great!!! Thank you

  • Juniormig Aug 31, 2011

    I tried what you said, replace the capacitor and so far it has been working great. 4 days and it is great. Bought the capacitor for $4.50 CAD and bingo! Mine has the coin compartment inside but the outside has been covered.

  • bpxtn3
    bpxtn3 Jul 27, 2012

    I inspected the board (take of back, upper right side) described with your problem. I discovered I have a 1000uf 13.4 volt capacitor with a rounded top looking different than the other flat topped capacitors on the board. I am on my way to buy a replacement capacitor. I called Koolatron customer service helpline at 1-800-265-8456 and the Replacement board costs $65. The new EC-23 model is a push dispense with no coin vend and sells for $99 at Home Depot.

  • bpxtn3
    bpxtn3 Jul 28, 2012

    I bought a 45v 1000uf capacitor and a roll of silver bearing rosin core solder .022" diameter 62/36/2. I found these at Radio shack for $10 USD total. I heated the bottom of the board at the solder point to get out the old capacitor making sure the hole for the capacitor was clear. The negative side of the capacitor I replaced was toward an aluminum heat sink. There is a long and a short wire to the new capacitor, the long leg being positive. Put the short leg into the hole where the negative side leg was. If you forgot the orientation, my capacitor was being held in place with 2 different colored putty chunks. Re-orient the old capacitor to figure out which side was supposed to be negative. Then I just melted a little solder onto my iron tip and touched it to the where the capacitor wire and board touch on the back of the board. Don't let the drop spread out. Trim a little of the wire off the back of the board so you can re-install it. My machine works as good as it ever did once I replaced the capacitor. THANKS FOR THE ADVICE!!!

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Is there a way to check out the Coin input or an easy way to get out the tokens

Posted on Oct 14, 2009

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I have one of these same machines and the problem sounds like a powersupply. A failed power supply doesn't have the voltage or current to run the electrical componants of the machine and all it will do is make a clicking noise. If the machine is left in this configeration for too long it will burn out the main processor board and you may as well toss it after that. The powersupply that came with the machine is located at the upper right side of the unit as seen from the back after the rear panel has been removed. This unit uses a standard 12 volt (Actual voltage is 13.8VDC) but at 75 watts. I haven't figured why these manufacturers like to rate their powersupplies in wattage instead of amperage. However, you can use Ohm's law is used where Voltage x Amps = Watts to figure the correct size of power supply you will need. Or to find the Amperage you simply take the watts (75), then divide it by the Voltage (13.8) then you will get an answer of 5.4 or to round it to the nearest 1/2 it would be 5.5 amps DC. I happened to have one of the Coleman Coolers that uses the same type of technology. So I was able to just rewire the power supply that came with it to be used for this machine. I found the Coleman PS more durable and I think it will certainly last longer as it is external where as the ps than came with the machine is internal and more subject to heat buildup within the cabinet. I was able to use the existing switch on the rear of the drink machine as the On/ Off and wired the Coleman PS Through it. Please be aware that the Coleman Plugs Directly in the 110V Receptacle and the output is at the Female Cigarette lighter plug. I Cut the Cigarette lighter plug off and soldered additional wire to connect to the ground and the Hot or + side I connected to the switch so the machine could be turned of and on. You will need a DC Volt meter to determine which of the conductors that are coming out of the PS is the ground and which is the + or the Hot wire. This a 3 position switch and after a different PS is installed it will become an On/Off switch only. If you need to purchase a power supply or sometimes better known as an AC adaptor be sure that it is large enough to do the Job. You will need a 12V DC PS rated at a minimum of 5.5 amps. I would get at least a 6 amp rated to be sure that it is large enough. I have seen them at prices from 35.00 to 125.00 so they aren't cheap!! The Coleman is rated at 5.25 amps and seems to doing just fine. It is priced at about 35 00 to 40.00
It is important to use a wire size that is compatable with the current or amperage that is used. Personally, I would used nothing smaller than a #14 when using it for the power feed wires on this type of Application. Also, I always solder the connection to ensure a tight connection. Loose connections are the dreaded No No for making electrical connections. A Loose connection can cause a buildup of resistance, Resistance causes heat, and heat can result in a fire hazard. Other ways to make tight electrical terminations or connections besides using solder are **** splices, splice caps and if used properly wire nuts. I hope this will shed a bit of light on this and may even help.

Posted on Nov 12, 2008

  • Kevin Rezendes Dec 25, 2010

    Why would you go through all this trouble instead of telling them where the problem is and how to fix it. It's just a Capacitor a 1000uf 13.4v Cap to be exact This site is mostly for the do it yourselfer not rocket science.

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Bad power supply. Unit can be converted to run off of 12v DC

Posted on Jul 10, 2008

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Customer service helpline at 1-800-265-8456

Posted on May 30, 2008

  • Kevin Rezendes Dec 24, 2010

    Wow that's really helpful.....

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