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Recompose The Photo
This is probably the simplest solution. When taking a photo of a scene with very bright and very dark parts, move your camera to eliminate one of the extremes. In the case of the band, I would have either closed the curtains for the shot, or recomposed completely and photographed from the window looking at the band, and the crowd behind.
Use Exposure Lock
If you can't recompose the photograph, instead tell the camera what part of the image you would like to see. The rest of the photo will be either over or under exposed (too bright or too dark) but at least you will see your subject. You can dothis by placing the center of the image at your subject; half depressing the shutter to lock the focus and exposure; move the camera to re-compose the image; and fully depressing the shutter.
In the band image, the camera chose to correctly expose the scene outside, but even if the band member had been correctly exposed, the window would have ended up being over exposed and you would just have seen white.
Some cameras have an option called 'spot metering' to set the part of the image you'd like to be correctly exposed. If your camera has this setting, enable it before using the technique above.
Use Fill In Flash
If your scene has a sunny background, but your subject is in the shade (or has a hat on), turn on the flash (as I explained way back in tip number 9 - Using Flash During The Day). I know it seems wrong but it really does work! By using the flash, your subject will look as bright as the background. This would have worked well for the child shot above.
High Dynamic Range Imaging
This technique is not for the faintof hearted. It requires a subject that does not move; a good camera with the capability to set the exposure and output RAW images. A tripod and image editing software like Photoshop CS3 are also needed.
High Dynamic Range Imaging (or HDR for short) is a technique for placing both very dark and very light areas in the same photo. It requires you to take a number of photographs of thesame scene - each with a different exposure. First take the shot using the camera's recommended settings. Then, in manual mode and keeping the aperture at the same value as the first shot, take a sequence of shots - each shot having a different shutter speed (above and below the original). You'll have 5-9 shots of the same scene all in different exposures.
Merging the three images to the left creates the HDR image below. Thanks to Photomatix for the images.
Now import these into your favorite paint program. I use Photoshop, but you can as easily use a cheaper program designed specifically for HDR photos like Photomatix. Follow the HDR directions and the paint program will merge these images into one great looking shot!
Use a Filter
If your scene is of a brightsky and a dark ground (for instance at sunset, or on a cloudy day), you can use a graduated neutral density filter. This filter cuts out someof the light from one part of the photo (the sky). This will correctly expose the ground and the sky without needing to use HDR. These filterscan be complex to setup, so I don't usually recommend them for beginners.
Fix The Original Photo in an Image Editing Program
Finally, if you can't take another shot at the same location, you can fix the original image by changing the levels using a paint program. This works best when your subject is darker than the rest of the photo (because cameras lose detail in over-bright areas). I've brightened the band member in the top image using this technique and while it looks okay in thissmall shot, this technique can tend to amplify any noise in the image. The darker the subject, the harder time you will have fixing the image.
I discuss exactly how to use this technique in lesson 2 of my free Image Editing Secrets course. I have a tutorial for Photoshop, Photoshop Elements, Paint Shop Pro and the free Google Picassa.
- See more at: http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/140/6-ways-to-fix-too-bright-and-too-dark-photos/#sthash.58eENOTt.dpuf
I'm unfamiliar with the F80 but on models like the f65 and f75 the viewfinder screen has an lcd overlay and when the battery is exhausted or removed the viewfinder goes dark and blurry.
Looking at a picture of the f80 it looks like it's just an update on my f75 so it strongly suggests that you just need to insert a fresh battery. The lcd does draw power from the battery even with the camera turned off.
I hope that you found my answer useful, once you've tried another battery to confirm what I've suggested I'd appreciate it if you return the favour by rating my answer.
Every picture looks good on the LCD since it's small, make sure you set your camera to flash, try ISO 200 and if the flash is TTL (thru the Lens) for digital it should adjust to the shot based on your other settings - I'm not familiar with that flash.
try removing the battery for 24 hours and allow the battery to charge for that long as well unless you charge the battery in the camera with a docking station then just leave it out also take a good look at the lcd when you try and turn it on see if the image is really dark but their is still a image. one this that I have noticed while working on casio is that a lens error can cause the lcd to be very dark and you can barley see a image but it is there so it causes you to thing the camera is dead. If you do see a image then the problem lies inside and needs to be serviced but if you don't then it lies in the power source. ie battery or power circuit of the camera. after the battery shows charged have it tested with a ohm meter it can help determine if it is a good battery. you can have it checked sometimes at radio shack or a place called batteries plus if you do not have one. I hope this helps out I know it can be frustrating but it happens. good luck.
Sounds as if your diaphragm may be sticking due to either the camera or the lens. Look at the back of the lens and work the small tab with the aperture ring set to f32 (or 22). See if the tab moves smoothly but with resistance from a spring, or if it sticks or moves roughly. If it does this with other lenses too, another possibility is the aperture lever on the camera. Mount the lens and set it for f22 or so and use your depth of field preview to see if the lens is stopping down smoothly. In either case it may need professional repair.