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I have a Kenmore range that i purchased in 2000. THe main computer board has gone out for the 3rd time. A repair tech tested and told me that there was 260.3 watts coming into it instead of the required 240 ish.

I called my electric company and they confirmed that there was a faulty capacitor bank in my area and they fixed in right away.

My electric company is willing to pay for the computer board but I really think that there has been too much electric all along and that is why this kept going out.

Can you help me with this?

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Ummmm, im thinkni youvealready figured youre problem, theyve copped the issue and paying for part, less them repairing the "capacitor bank" sounds like itll continue to happen. how can we help?

Posted on Feb 27, 2008

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What does E15 fault in a electrolux stove mean?

Thank you for your inquiry, friend!

I understand that you are looking for the meaning of "E15" on your Electrolux range. "E15" stands for ESEC self-test failed, which could either mean and issue within your UIB (User Interface Board) or relay board. I would recommend having a professional come out to diagnose and repair your appliance. Best of luck. -Matt

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Good day,
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Test to see if circuit board is okay

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WHY Force the Arctica to Defrost if it Don�t Want to? Don't bother using the self-diagnostics feature to force a defrost cycle. On some models � those with control knobs - which technically are not Arctica models (Arctica models have plastic liners with touch pads � Standard GE electronic models with metal liners have knobs) servicers would have to invest in parts to build a �test� control panel, complete with touch pads and digital displays, to achieve this (self-diagnostics) function. Instead, save both time and money by following this helpful Arctica Tip: If a frosted evaporator or a �frost block� is apparent, initiating a defrost cycle may not reveal anything helpful anyway. First, disconnect power and then simply check the resistance across the defrost heater and bimetal circuit at the main board located at the backside. The two associated wires at the main board are almost always BLUE and ORANGE. The heater/bimetal circuit should normally read around 30 ohms roughly. Next, check the evaporator thermister at the main board between thermister input terminals J1-4 (Blue/White) and J1-5 (Blue) to determine that its resistance is greater than 1.2k ohms but not more than 166.8k ohms depending on its ambient temperature. If thermister resistance falls within this range according to temperature (Approximately: 6k ohms at 70�F � 16.3k ohms at 32�F � 51k ohms at 0�F) and the heater/bimetal circuit is diagnosed as good, then replace the main board.

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