- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
in most cases its not the defrost board test the defrost element/s make sure they are not blown test at both ends like a fuse you should get a resistence rating of around .2 ohm if the curcuit is open then the defrost elements need replacing maytag have very reliable defrost control boards they dont fail all that often
You have a problem with your defrost system. The defrost heater is not coming on to thaw the frost that builds up on your evaporator coils. This restricts the airflow to the ref side. You will need to find out which component needs to be replaced it could be your defrost control, defrost thermostat, or defrost heater. The heater and thermostat are located behind the freezer panel. The heater can be ohmed out with a meter and tested for continuity, the thermostat will usually be popped out if its bad. If both of these parts are good then the problem is your defrost control, my model look-up is down right now but it could be a circuit board or just a standard "timer" style control.
If the freezer is cold and the refrigerator is warm, the unit is probably not going into defrost. Remove the back inside of the freezer and see if all frosted up. If so thaw with a hair dryer and replace the adaptive defrost assembly located inside the back of the refrigerator section. Up on the ceiling of the ref where you adjust the temp. remove thc cover by putting your fingers in the back holes and pull forward. Make sure the ref is unplugged. Remove two 1/4" head screws in the front and two phillip head screws by the lights. One 1/4" head screw straight in the back. The defrost timer is located in the far right corner. A small board 2 to 3" square. It will unplug and is probably screwed in.
freezer not defrosting. probably adaptive defrost board in fridge.
take panel off freezer (inside, back panel). if all frozen, can defrost with blow dryer. best to remove fridge control panel (inside, top of fidge). access adaptive defrost board, jump test to f1 (i think) next to test. this should initialize defrost mode. buy new board.
There is no forced defrost entry for your refrig. Yours has a ADC board in the upper right corner of the control area in the refrig section. The only way to initate defrost is jump the terminals on the board. Look at the wiring diagram closely before making the jump. The board energizes the heater thru the neutral side so make sure you dont jump line to this. I believe you jump L2 to Def
If you jumped the defrost board and it went into defrost then that board is bad. I assume by "freezes up" you are talking about the evaporator is frosting up? That defrost board puts it into defrost automatically. If you have to jump it to get it go into defrost then the board is not doing its job.
tduck, what the tech was refering to is the adaptive defrost board. This is a common failure on these models. You are going to find it in the refrigerator side. Remove the temp control end knobs from the controllers. Remove the screws holding the light shield. Now in the back on each side you will see a tab that pushes in and the cover will pull straight out. This sometimes can be difficult task, those tabs are a real pain. Now you will remove the screws holding the defrost timer cover and the defrost timer will be in the back on the right side. On this defrost board you will see L1 and test right next to eachother. Using a small screw driver short across these terminals with the harness on. This will put the refrigerator into the defrost. If it goes into defrost and jumps right back out, you know it's the defrost board. The defrost bi-metal will be normally closed and open to terminate the defrost. So if your evaporator is warm, it will not go into defrost. You should be able to get a breakdown of this at Sears.com, go to appliance parts and enter your model number. Usually the adaptive defrost board is the culprit, I don't see too many heaters or bi-metals (defrost terminators) go bad. Your part number for the board is 61003990 for series 10. See if your serial number starts with 10.....Catriver..post back.