Question about Samsung LN-R408D 40 in. LCD HDTV

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Samsung LN-R408D - No Picture

Hi,

I have a samsung LN-R408D with just a blank screen. It was connected via HDMI to an amplifier.

TV powers up, and LCD panel turns greyish, so i assume power is OK, but no Image. Thought it was the HDMI port, so conneted a DVD player via RCA cable (Yellow / Red / White). DVD Audio can be heard through the TV speakers but no picture. Samsung troubleshooting talks about maybe contrast / brightness turned down to minimum by error, but even when i press the menu button on remote, i dont get anything on the screen.

So looks like a bad panel or board or something. Please help.

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  • marzoid Feb 26, 2008

    Thanks

    Have opened up the back of the TV, and will reseat the cable. Looking at the mainboard, the part # i see is BN41-00567E. Not sure if that's the same main board . Can the main board have 2 part #'s

    I also see a BN41-00562A (???) and BN41-00521B (power supply) and BN96-01805A (???)

    Will advise on the outcome after a reseat.

    Note: Looking at the power supply board BN41-00521B i see a capacitor that looks like it has a bulge. It is a Black CapXon 25v 1000uf (CM823). Don't know if this has anything to do with my No picture issue

  • msteinbock Apr 07, 2009

    I have a Samsung LN-R408D LCD TV that has a bad Thermistor (KL15L5R1). Anyone know of a place to get this repaired? It seems that this is a difficult to get or obsolete part?

  • wags7879 May 11, 2010

    I have the exact same problem. Did you get yours working again?

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My Mom's LNR408D also had sound but no picture. I was able to fix it by soldering in a jumper wire across a blown (1.5A ???) SMD picofuse on the "T-Con" board.
Consider attempting this ONLY if you: 0) Know enough to avoid the potentially fatal High Voltage parts of the power supply board!!!
1) Are a fearless hackazoid 2) know what you're doing with a soldering iron and teensie SMD parts 3) are gonna throw the busted thing out anyway so you have nothing to lose and won't be sad if you screw something up.
4) Know enough to avoid the potentially FATAL High Voltage parts of the power supply board!!!!!

Samsung LN-R408D - No Picture - 74c09f0.jpg

This board is at the top center under a close fitting RF shield. The suspect part was labeled "CP" on the board and marked with "P" on the part. It is visible above the right-center of the connector from the main board. An ohmmeter showed it as open, so I bypassed it with a jumper wire from connector VIN to the hot side of C13. One image shows the suspect part and the jumper in place.

b761e87.jpg
The other shows the TCON board placement top-center (under its RF shield). With care, it seems possible to test the fuse and put the jumper in place without removing the shield. (Obviously don't touch anything else with the VOM leads!)

Thanks to ZORBUS and Steve's TV and Electronics for the idea.
http://www.avforums.com/forums/lcd-televisions/892447-no-picture-but-got-sound-my-samsung-lcd.html
http://www.gesda.com/transformer/Fall08_files/Page336.htm
Steve C

Posted on Sep 22, 2009

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  • OZara Nov 06, 2010

    After 4 years this did the same thing. It was on then turned off a couple of times while watching TV, then a few days later no picture only sound no menu no other sources for picture. (I paid too much for this for it just to last 4yrs!)

    I've been reading about changing the T-CON chip and I didn't wanna pay $120 for the part when I can get a 50" for around $650.

    Then I saw this and ---- Yup this worked for me too. I used a wire to by-pass the fuse and it worked, It was a little difficult to work in such a small opening, I tried soldering from the connector to the C13 but ending up un-soldering the connector from the board. so I connecting the wire from one end of the fuse to C13.

    Lets see how long this last. No more Samsung after this! ( unless its free or they send me a T-CON board for freeeee!)

    Thanks!

  • vektoralian Dec 09, 2010

    I would HIGHLY recommend a fuse instead of a wire. Why did it blow? Start low and increase amp rating until it is stable. I followed your instructions but also included a 2A fuse after a 1A blew. Be safe.

  • bpolo215 Jan 17, 2011

    I am getting ready to try this fix, Man is this a extremely small area. I can't tell if the jumper is soldered the first or second VIM section point from the right and what gauge is that wire?
    In response to "vektoralian" would any 3A-32v fuse work? ( ie glass tube or car fuse) I guess I guess I better get my big magnifying glass and small very sharp soldering iron out as this is going to be a challenge.

  • bpolo215 Jan 17, 2011

    I am getting ready to try this fix, Man is this a extremely small area. I can't tell if the jumper is soldered the first or second VIM section point from the right and what gauge is that wire?
    In response to "vektoralian" would any 3A-32v fuse work? ( ie glass tube or car fuse) I guess I guess I better get my big magnifying glass and small very sharp soldering iron out as this is going to be a challenge.

  • Trey DuVal Apr 21, 2011

    I just fixed my tv!! Thank you so much

  • smbaby Apr 21, 2011

    I can't remember now which pin it was, but it was easy to figure out by following the trace from the fuse. You might be able to solder to the connector side of the fuse as well, but I didn't want to dislodge it. When I did the fix, I removed the RF shield which gave much easier access. Not sure of the wire gage. Just grabbed the smallest I had. I agree that the "right" thing to do would be to use a fuse, but be careful not to let it short against anything else.

    I'm very pleased that some folks have gotten use out of the hack. Credit to ZORBUS and "Steve's" for the idea. Sometimes the manufacturer doesn't properly account for component aging, inrush, etc when they size a fuse.

    My Mom's TV has worked fine since the repair.

    Watch out for the HV!

  • bpolo215 Sep 07, 2011

    I did this 8 months ago and it worked great all this time, the picture is great without a hitch. The problem now is for some reason the sound went after all this time, Is there another trick fir this or is it time to let this old girl go? (a shame because the picture is really working great now)

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That P type fuse is a 3 amp 32v fuse.
http://www.wehong.com/news_editor/UploadFile/20093418384247.pdf

Posted on Oct 09, 2009

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I'm having the same problem. I put a new t-con board on but that didn't fix it. What else should I try?

Posted on Dec 08, 2011

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What pin do you solder to on VIN connector

Posted on Dec 12, 2015

  • smbaby Jan 18, 2016

    Don't remember the pin number, but the fuse is the part with the P on it (labeled "CP" in on the board). You should be able to follow the trace from the fuse to the connector and see which pin to use. You are basically just bypassing this fuse. (It would be better to replace it, but that requires some fine soldering). My mom's TV is still working with this fix as of Jan 2016.

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Reseat the LVDS cable inside the unit. this is the cable from the main board to the panel. if the problem is still there then replace the main board 1st, part # BN94-00629F. if the problem is still there then the panel is bad, part # BN07-00245A. if you are not familar with TV repair have a tech repair this for you, if it is under warranty call the manufacturer for nearest repair place.

Posted on Feb 26, 2008

  • Robert Johnson Feb 27, 2008

    yes replace that cap it will cause no power condition

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