Herman88 - Can you please assist me with removing the speaker grill? I just want to make sure I'm doing it correctly, for mine does not seem to want to come off. Are there screws that hold the speaker grill on? Your help would be GREATLY appreciated! Thank you!
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some of the need the hole pannel removing but if its got a srew keeping the grill part of the speaker on it will be under neath the grill part remove this and you can sometimes remove the speaker with a bit jiggaling about and a couple of screws
If your Sony speakers are in sealed cabinets, the only way to get access inside is through the front by removing the grille and the speakers..BUT before removing the speakers check whether the speaker(s) themselves are the source of the rattle
First remove the wire mesh grill with a curved pin or lever it out with a sharp kitchen knife. Then you will notice four black screws very close the groove into which the grill fits.Using a correct size + screwdriver unscrew all the four screw anticlockwise till you feel the whole speaker panel shake loose. Make sure somebody is holding the outer frame while you are doing it or it might suddenly fall. The are red and black spring clip connectors for the speaker wires. Disconnect them foe removing the speakers completely.
Put a piece of cardboard next to the speaker to protect your boats finish. Then use a flat bladed screw driver to gently pry the grill covers off. you may need to work your way around the perimeter, with a little bit of effort it will pop off. There will be 4 screws under the grills holding the speaker to the boat which are easy to remove.
Remove the front speaker grill and then you can access the door that is held in place with one screw. The speaker grill can be hard to remove sometimes, but be careful.
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There are two screws (1/4 in. philips) located in the lower left and right front of the cabinet near the floor. They may be concealed by a plastic overlay. It can be popped off with a small screwdriver.
The speaker bezel can be removed in only two ways:
1) Somehow remove the grille in order to get a the screws which hold the bezel onto the cabinet. I tried to do this and couldn't get it to budge. Once I got the thing open I observed that Logitech used a LOT of glue to hold this thing together.
2) Drill holes THROUGH the grill above each of the 8 screws large enough so you can loosen the screws.
Once you get it open, you'll be shocked to discover what you thought was the subwoofer cone is actually A ROUND PIECE OF CARDBOARD fastened to the foam. The 4" driver is behind this fastened to a board halfway back pointing into the chamber containing the electronics.
You can get to the power transformer, but good luck removing it. The screws are nearly impossible to unfasten; more glue but more importantly incredibly awful access to the nut and screw (yes, a screw, not a bolt).
I wouldn't pay 5 bucks for this system. Luckily, I didn't.
YPMDesign is correct, but to get further into the im600 you have to peel off the cover that masks the LCD (it has Altec Lansing printed on it). Once done, it exposes 2 screws, and when removed you can pull open the whole thing, exposing the main circuitry. There is nothing that can be reseated though, as all appears soldered. There is one main board, which everything connects to, then the PCB at the bottom of the system, which has the power buttton and ipod dock connector etc. Unfortunately I have been unale to resolve my problem, where the Power buttton LED lights briefly if the battery is removed and reconnected, but getting nothing on the main display, and the power button is not responding at all when depressed. Mine is sadly bin bound..
I had the same problem until I removed the screen and cleaned the front mirror with a static feather duster. First, turn OFF power. Second, remove screws on rear at top and on both sides of the screen. Third, remove speaker grill. Fourth, remove screws on each side of the screen where screen meets the speaker area. Fifth, remove two screws in center area of speaker area under screen. Sixth, lift screen up and away from set housing and use a duster with a two to three extension and GENTLY wipe the noticeable dust layer from the front tilted mirror located behind the screen at bottom of screen. Seventh, do everything in the REVERSE and you're done. If you need to replace the lamp, now's a good time to do so. Also you should clean the dust filter located behind an access door on the rear (right hand side as your are looking at the rear) with a handheld type of vacuum device.
After I completed ALL of the above procedures my WD-62525 was better than I remember. I bought it in 2005 and the picture quality has never looked so good.
The screen is as light as a feather but 62" is awkward. It is recommended you use another person to hold the screen but I work best alone and it was a breeze.