Question about Hitachi 53UWX10B 53" Rear Projection Television

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No power all of a sudden

I have a Hitachi Ultravision TV that lost all power tonight not long after turning it on. It made a loud noise through the speakers before it went black. It then starting clicking, and the red power light starts blinking in time to the clicking coming from the back of the set. I have had the convergence problems with this set and fixed it (with the help of a friend who solders electronics), and it has worked flawlessly for about 2 years since doing it. I did smell an electrical smell after it happened, so I'm guessing something burned up. Any help on this? Great timing, but the way. The washer just started leaking, too.

Steve

My Tv power light in front blinks on and off with a chirping sound that corresponds to the blinking. There is no picture. I have fixed a convergence problem in the past. I'm not a pro so please make the answer as simple as possible.

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  • Anonymous Jul 06, 2008

    no raster or sound two green led blinking in time with chirping sound from high voltage board. I haven't done any soldering for a long time. not sure where to begin. I am assuming the chips you are talking about are high watage transistors on the neck of the tubes? Any help or direction would be helpful thx.

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  • 4,402 Answers

Im thinking you blew the chips again, i would use sanyo chips from mcm not cheap ones
This is a list of most of the commonly used STK devices and some that Sanyo made that are rarely, if ever, used. I will add links to the data sheets that I have, but some of them are not available. Some of the chips are versions made for a particular TV manufacturer, and Sanyo does not provide data on those, typically. It is generally best to use the same chip that is found in the set. However, there have been newer versions of some of these produced that are identical in performance and superior in certain applications. I will note my recommendations and the logic behind them, but I in no way, nor does HTS, take any responsibility for the accuracy of the information with regard to substitution of parts. Any substitution is your responsibility. I can only relate what I have found to work with parts that I know to be original Sanyo parts.


STK4273 replace with STK4274 if heat sink allows
STK4274
STK4275
STK4278

STK391-110
STK391-120
STK391-220

STK392-010 replace with STK392-040
STK392-020 replace with STK392-040
***The -040 has wider bandwidth and has higher current rating than the -010 and -020. I use in ALL cases to replace the older versions.

STK392-040
STK392-560
STK392-570

STK392-110 replace with STK394-160
STK392-120 Hitachi replaces these with STK394-160, for other sets it may not be a good sub. They have been fine in the Philips sets so far.
STK392-150 replace with STK394-160
***The 394 series replaced the 392 series and is cooler running. The subs listed here are the ones that I know to work in most sets.

STK392-180
STK392-210
STK392-220

STK393-110

STK394-160 (This is my choice to replace the STK392-110, -120, & -150 in most sets and are available in the Hitachi kits in the next post)
STK394-210
STK394-250
STK392-260
STK394-510

Suffixes
-L means bent pins for horizontal mounting
-E means lead free
-HIC in Mitsubishi parts simply means that it is an IC on a heat sink and is irrelevant to buying parts.


Posted on Feb 26, 2008

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