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unplug the unit and gain access to the wiring connection for all 4 elements(plates). remove the wiring from the element that will not shut off. while making sure none of the unconnected wires do not touch any metal or another wire, and plug in power cord. if the 3 non-working elements get hot then replace the none working control knob
If the phenomenon is intermittent, and you get it going and coming as you restart the oven, then it is likely a bad wiring or a bad connection. Ensure first that the circuit breaker is ok and well in place, then proceed testing wirings. Check connectors to buners, hobs, and controls panel. If all wirings and connections are OK, the what reamins is a faulty control panel or a fault on some of the knob controls.
see this guide and fix it. God bless you Instructions
Disconnect the power to the stove by turning off the breaker
in your fuse box. Test the stove to ensure that power has been
disconnected by turning on a working burner and making sure it does not
Open the oven door.
Remove the two bolts from the underside of the front of the cooktop, located just above the door jam, facing upwards.
Lift the entire cooktop to access the burners, which are attached to the bottom of the cooktop.
Remove the two screws from the brackets that secure the burner that you would like to remove, then remove that burner.
Disconnect the wires connected to the original burner, then
plug them into the new burner. The wires can be removed by simply
pulling them out of the terminals. Be sure to mark which wires go to
Align the grooves on the top of the new burner with the
grooves on the bottom of the glass cooktop, then secure the new burner
using the brackets and screws that you originally removed.
Lower the cooktop, then re-secure it with the two bolts that were removed from the bottom. Close the oven door.
Restore power to the stove to complete the installation.
The hob connectors have colour coded plug ins. They are starting from right to left the red connector is for the front right plate, the white is for the back right plate, the blue is for the the back left plate and the black is for the front left plate.
Now I am not sure of the config in your country but another way to look at this is that The red dot 2000 W (large plate) is connected to the black harness and the red dot 1500 W is connected to the blue harness. The std large plate 1500 W is connected to the white harness and the red harness is for the 1000W small plate.
The wiring onto the actual plates should be accrording to the
colour codes as follows:
The harnesses are all 4 wires and are colour coded blue white ( wiring block 1) , yellow white(block 2), white ( wiring block 3) and the red white block 4. The actual plates are numbered from left to right as 1,2,4,3. But my wiring write up takes it as standard 1 to 4 so do mot worry about the numbers on the plates as some plates have no numbers.
Hope this helps.
It can be 1 of 3 things the temperature control could be defective, you could have a burnt wire or the bottom ring of the stove cou ld be burnt. If you have a volt ohm meter you could check the bottom ring for continuaty, visiualy inspect the wirring for any burnt connector you can also check continuaty on the temperature contoller. Good luck.
Please disconnect the power to the stove befor attempting any of the above.
if you have220/240 across the house black wires put red from stove to one black then black to blackaluminum to copper should be the ground turn breakers off after you check the volts across the black and the ground make sure the ground is a ground and you will need to run a white wire back to the breaker box for the neutral then white to white
Sounds like the wires connecting your control panel to the individual heating elements have either shorted out or been disconnected. Try taking off the control panel board and testing the connections (the four on the sides of the circuit board in the middle, and the two five pin and one three pin connector on the mainboard). If they are good, then your problem lies in the control board itself and will require a replacement from Whirlpool. Depending on if you have the touch sensor board or a push switch, it can run upwards of a few hundred bucks.