Since i got this thing i have had problems now it freezes up i tryed
to unplug it and plug it back in the line moves around to a
certain point then it freezes again it is only 1 month old,
i am not happy with this product and will try what you say
to do and if i still have problems i will trash it
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Try seeing if all the cables are plugged into the right places properly. Ive noticed that sometimes when I move my screen around the plug comes out the socket just enough to stop the connection. If its none of these then it could be something more serious.
Since you said line 3 was working for #2 company, i will suggest you put the line 3 back from where you removed it from. From the look of things the line might be the only line connected to be functioning. When ever you want to switch line since it is with intercom you will need to switch both side from where it is connected to where it is connected to, so that network connection can be achieved.
And on the other hand, the other line might not be working properly, that is why it was not connected or used.
In my workplace, when you move the Nortel M7100 phone, the programmed info (extension number, etc) moves along, just like if I was rewiring all phones. Have you tried just to unplug the phone and plug it on the new location? Here the extension number moves along with the equipment... (Nortel Norstar M7208 and M7100). Good Luck!
did you tilt it when you moved it and then when u got it in place plug it in? if so youve got compressor problems, anytime you tilt a fridge you have to let it set for several hours to allow the oil to get back to the compressor or you ruin the compressor
I don't have a permanent fix, but I do have a work around:
The problem appears to be some sort of "loose connection" associated with either the power plug or how the back of the TV is mounted to the front. Try the power plug first: we unplugged/plugged the plug from the back of the TV (i.e. not the wall) multiple times, jiggling it around a bit each time we plugged it in, and did so until we didn't hear the "pop/click" (i.e. the sound we've come to associate with the problem)... Voila! It started working again.
If that doesn't work, try removing all the screws from the entire back panel, moving the back panel up/off a bit (but completely removing, and being careful not to disturb any of the connections to the DVD player, etc.), and then do the unplug/plug thing. We're guessing that moving the back panel around is essentially facilitating the unplug/plug thing.
Our repairman discovered this when he tried to fix it the first time. He removed the back panel but then the TV immediately started working, so he couldn't determine what the actual problem was. He gave it back to us, and it worked for a few months and then the problem came back. We did the panel/unplug/plug thing and it started working again.
Turn the printer upside down right underneath where the cartridge station is you will find a small white gear...sometime it may be covered with a blue rubber cover.
when you turn the gear ..the barrier in front of the cartridge will go down.
Then do a rest on the printer and then install it.
Is the compressor running? Is the coils near the compressor clean and is the fan that blows on the coils running? Does it get cold at all or is it room temp? One thing to do is to turn it on after leaving it unplugged for and hour. First access the compressor and make sure you can feel the copper lines coming out of it. Some have 4 plus a service pigtail. On the ones with 4 will have two lines the same size that circulate oil for cooling the compressor running to a small set of coils. Pay attention to the larger and smaller lines and notice what temperature they feel like before you plug it back in. Once it is plugged in and if the compressor is running less than a minute the small line should get hot, up to 140 degrees F. Check it soon as after a few minutes it can burn you...The largest of the lines is the low side or suction side and it should be very noticeably cooler than room temp and continue to get colder the longer it has been running. If both these things happen, the charge should be adequate, and the compressor is working. I would then check to see if air is circulating in the unit..Are all the fans running when the unit is on? Most common is for the defrost circuit to fail causing the unit to build up ice behind the liner blocking air flow. Unplugging the unit and leaving the doors open over night will let it thaw. Put several towels around the unit incase this is the problem as there will probably have more water come out than the small pan under neath the unit can handle. Once all the water stops dripping out, plug it back in and see if it works correctly. If so it will probably freeze up again and need to be defrosted again. If so the defrost circuit has failed....either the thermostat in that circuit, the heater coils or the defrost timer switch. Switch very common, coils next and the high temp sensor last.... let me know what you find...
Typically if you have a fridge with just one lever for ice and water and neither work, there is a switch in the door that operates either ice/water according to what you have selected. Most of the time this switch goes bad or becomes loose with use. Only word of warning is you have to take the ice/water assembly 1/2 way out of the door typically trim and a few pieces to get to it and its usually on the outside.
Bottom line if its the switch your looking around $5.00 to repair for the micro switch.
BE CAREFUL WHEN TAKING THE DOOR APART!!! If you damage the insulation around the water line you risk the water freezing in the line and you will have problems from it from then on out, HOWEVER if you damage the existing insulation a can of minimal expanding Great Stuff can easily repair the insulation.