Question about Infinity BassLink II Car Subwoofer

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BASS LINK II Won't stay running when car is running

BL II WILL RUN IN ACCESSORY POSITION ONLY ON MY 03 Trailblazer. BUT ONLY WITH THE AUTO TURN ON in the OFF position. The minute you turn the key to start the more BASSLINK II.

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  • gjc18karat Feb 25, 2008

    Looked in all my fuse and relay boxes to no avail. No wires wrapped on anything I could see. Looks like the only power wires are running right form the battery through the fuseable link to the BASSLINK II itself. Any other suggestions??

  • gjc18karat Feb 26, 2008

    OK...That says a lot. There is no remote wire run to anywhere. The remote post is empty....Whoda thunk my pro install wouldn't be so professional??

    Thanks! You guys are awesome.

  • gjc18karat Feb 29, 2008

    Thanks Buschchris 1.....The BL II was defective. I have a Bazooka 10" that works just fine. So apparently the instal was good ....the product was junk.

    Thanks, Again!

  • gjc18karat Feb 29, 2008


    I has Alpine 6.5 coax put in all the doors as well. Apparently I had a blown rear speaker as well from the factory config. Sounds pretty good. Just trying to get the sub tuned


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You have it wired to your accesories setting, you need to wire it to to your " Run " wire. Try this, Look in your fuse box and find the fuse that only has vultage when the car is on. Use a voltemeter. Then just wrap the wire around the fuse and insert it back in.

Your cars repair manual, If you picked one up, will have a wiring diagram in the back, where it shows the starting system, it will say weather the wire is "Hot" has voltage when the car is in the "on/RUN" position, or in the Accessories position. You want to plug it into the RUN wire so that its only on when the car is on and running, this way you dont drain your battery.

Make sur eyou have a fuseable link between in the positive wire thats connected to the battery so you dont fry your sub with to much voltage.

Posted on Feb 25, 2008

  • Chris Busch
    Chris Busch Feb 26, 2008

    Well, its not wrapped yet becasue its connected in somewhere else under the dashboard probably. I would take it back to whomever installed it and have them fix it. If for some reason you have to do it yourself then i would first suggest getting a repair manual from the auto parts place, a chilton or hayes repair book are good brands. This will contain the wiring diagrams and color codes for your wires.

    Everything for your amp sounds to be hooked up right except the Remote wire that comes from the Amp.

    Heres what you need to do first, disconnect your battery terminals so you dont juice your battery messing around or fry yourself.

    Go to the subwoofer which im asuming is in the trunk. Look at your amp, there should be a red wire or a positive wire that runs from the batter all the way to the AMP. usually it runs into you firewall from the battery, inder your carpeting or through a side panel all the way to the trunk or wherever your subwoofers Amp is. If your looking at the amp, that cable ( usually red) goes into the AMP, then there is a black or Ground cable that goes from the amp and is connected to the cars chasis, this ground allows for the power current to travel to your amp, now that positive or red wire should have a fuse somewhere which blows out instead of blowing your AMP in case of a power surge. Its important it has that or else theres nothing controlling how much power goes to your Amp and thus blows it out when you connect it.

    Now there should be a blue or other colored wire that thinner than the others, this is called the remote wire, it travel from the AMP back to your cars wiring in the front somewhere. Mine goes into my fuse box and is wrapped around the fuse, yours may have been spliced into the wireing directly.

    That little wire is supposed to be hooked into your radio/ accesories wire or the fuse in the fuse panel, its usually a 10 Amp fuse if its plugged into the fuse.

    In the diagram it will show the fuse as being " Hot in accessories or RUN" meaning its only providing power when the car is in run or ignition is turned to the on position but not started.

    The diagram, Mine says " left junction box becasue its in the Left fuse box where the door meets the car on the drivers side, in the dash.

    The remote wire you have is probably spliced into the wrong wire or fuse an thats why its not working correctly.

    follow the remote wire from the amp to wherever it leads into your cars wiring. once found dissconnect it and plug it into the 10 Amp fuse or the wire that is labeled as being (HOT when in RUN).

    when you get the manual, it will tell you what color the radio wires are, wether there power, speaker or ignition and so forth, the one wire that connects to the fuse box that is labeled as Hot in run, is the wire it needs to go to. I just connected it to my radios Fuse that is connected to that same wire becasue its easier than splicing it, i just wrapped it around the fuse and put the fuse back in.

    I attached a pic of what my manual shows for my car to give you an idea. The square on the left is the one its supposed to be tied into. It say 10A which is a ten amp fuse in the fuse panel. Its the radio accessories fuse. Depending on your cars year make and model it may have 1, 2, or three fuse boxes, one under the hood, one on the left and right side. Now if its older, it may be under the dash , by the steering column, you'll have to get a flashlight and get upside down to look up in there. The first pic shows the panel in my car and the light blue wire ( the remote wire) going into the fuse thats for the radio that has current when the car is on. the second is my AMP with the red wire(positive), the light blue(remote wire) and the black is the ground wire. The third pic is of the positive wire(red) hooked into the battery, the last is the wireing diagram. make sure the fuse you connect the remote wire to is the ' Hot in run wire) which you will find once you get the manual and look where its located. Let me know how it goes, oh, and the shorter the ground wire is from the AMP to the chasis, the less distortion you will get. Also if your subs in a box with the front of the woofer sticking out, depending on the size of the air port determines the kick your sub will have, smaller the hole, the more punch it will have, the bigger, the less, a more softer hit. I dont have any on mine because i like a hard punch sound effect. also, use that reflective duct tape to deden any ratling parts in the trunk, especially the license plate, they tend to rattle alot from the base and sounds getto, try putting the tape behind the license plate near the screw to prevent rattling.

  • Chris Busch
    Chris Busch Feb 29, 2008

    Glad you found that out, i use a 500w Bazzoka to power my 1024w sub and it sounds great, more bass than i need already, So keep the bazooka around, When it comes to base, a super expensive Amp isnt necesarry because its just bass. If you get one for your speakers, dont go to cheap because they put out alot more sounds and channel audio and everything else so you want good quality there. I have an Infiniti sub and all pioneer speakers and Pioneer CD player that has options for controling everything plus the base output, It sounds great and so will yours im sure. Just remember, dont show off your system in places where you park your car over night or for a long time because then people who want to steel your stuff will know wher you park it. I always turn down my music before i get home or park some place where i am going to be gone a long time.

    Just some advice:)


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