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The ST 100 microphone is a phantom powered unit. So, it receives its power by the same terminals used for its connection, not needing a separated power supply.
In general, most mixing consoles offer the option to feed the balanced microphones with 48 volt via a switch that can turn on or off its internal phantom power supply.
If you are going to use the ST100 microphone with a common amplifier or mixer, you will need to buy a separated phantom power supply. Searching the Internet for "phantom power supplies", you will find many available models and brands.
To know a little bit more about these power supplies, please check the following link:
Pop off the bezel that surrounds the switch actuator. Once you do that, the switch actuator will fall our in your hands. Remove the C-clip at the top of the microphone and the circuit board can be slid out the top.
The actuator moves the actual switch. So, if you are having problems with the actual switch, then you will need to replace it. Replacement parts can be ordered from Shure Parts at 800-516-2525.
It might cost less and be easier to simply send the microphone to Shure for repairs.
If you do not have experience in repairing these mics, you should probably have a pro audio technician do the work. The problem is an open circuit in microphone's internal wiring; either the mic cartridge is dead, or one or more of the fine wires connecting it to the microphone output connector are disconnected. Sometimes the fault is caused by a bad solder connection, or a faulty switch. As I mentioned, unless you have experience with these items, you can permanently damage a potentially salvageable mic. A goos tech should be able to identify the problem in a few minutes, and if the mic is repairable, it should be a cheap fix. Worst case scenario, a dead cartridge replacement may cost half the price of a new mic. But then, it's essentially a new mic.
I have experience with the original Passport 250 as leader of the design team. To get inside of the speaker cabinet, you will need to remove a couple of small screws that hold in the grille at the top and bottom of the cabinet face. Once these screws are removed, you will need to carefully pry out the grille from its pressure fit in the plastic noting how it is placed so you can reassemble the grill later. Once the grille is removed you will notice several holes located around the outer perimeter of the speaker panel. Inside these holes, you will find the screws that secure the front of the cabinet (part with speaker attached) with the back of the cabinet housing. Once you have all of the screws removed, you can separate the front panel from the housing and fix the wires or dislocated parts such as crossovers, etc.
Once repaired, use the reverse method to reassemble the cabinet. Don't tighten the cabinet screws excessively as they can strip the plastic.
1. clear cut off the damaged section,
2..solder or ideally wire-wound the connections,
3. insulate the wires with plastic tape, or plastic sheet,
4. shield the wires with aluminum foils,
5. wrap up the outer.