Question about Panasonic PT-53WX42 53" Rear Projection Television

1 Answer

Panasonic pt47wx49 taking out board A to replace IC on heat sink

Ok, so I did some investigation after I flipped the power on my 6 year old
panasonic pt47wx49 projection TV and it went off multiple times, after continuosly trying to make it stay on, finally its on! but now the green color is bowed on both sides, I have tried service mode, and know its got to be the conversion ic's.
The middle picture is fine if you flip to 4:3 the bowing is hardly noticable, but I don't want to watch my TV in that mode plus I know its not recommended for this set.
So I did some investiagation and found that the conversion IC (located on the heat sinks) go bad after 6 years? Panasonic and the dealer both failed to tell me this at time of purchase which is another story!!!
Thx to fixya.com I was able to pick some up some new ICs and I am going to attempt to replace them...
I am some what skilled with Jamma and done minor replacement soldering. Upon opening the TV set I noticed some white clips (tracers) connect board A to the power board..I am unfamiler with these power clips? Anybody know if I can just take out Board A to replace the IC or do I have to remove the whole chassis? I dont know how the disconnect the white tracers that go to the power board, I download the service manual (once again thx fixya!) and it show the dude taking the whole TV apart, I think thats a little much...and I dont want to start pulling tube plugs!

Please help! Anybody give me a walk through? Also I want to get a new solder iron so i don't damaged the board, will the cold shot work well??
Please any insight...I dont care if I bust it, in my eyes its already garbage.

Posted by on

  • Bublenutz Feb 25, 2008

    STK convergence modules (the black things attached to the heat sinks) I picked up where on Ebay, I got the same exact number that was on the origianly part # so I have those already...

    I am stupid and dont know how to get the A board out??

    On the right side of board A the are four sets of tracers (white clips) that connect the two boards...How do those clips deattach?

    I was already to switch them out, had everything label and ready to go, but I can't loosen the white clips and I don't want to force them?

  • sanderella May 11, 2010

    As a gift to my parents, I
    purchased a Panasonic Rear Projection Television in the summer of 2001. I paid approximately $2,200 and thought I was
    getting a great deal as I had always thought of Panasonic as one of the leaders
    in consumer electronics.






    About 2 to 2 ½ years into owning this TV, the red convergence
    started to malfunction. I contacted
    Panasonic and was told that my limited warranty was exactly that, LIMITED. It did not cover convergence problems. So I took this issue into my own hands and
    called for repair estimates. The
    cheapest estimate for labor and parts came to a whopping a $350.






    Reluctantly, I hired a TV
    repairman and agreed to pay this exorbitant amount of money. He checked various components inside the TV
    board and proceeded to replace 2 convergence amps plus the associated
    resistors. There was some soldering
    involved and the whole process took about 2 hours. Finally, he adjusted the convergence and
    other data with the remote and the TV was back to normal. I was satisfied.






    Fast forward another 2
    years, my green convergence is out. Now,
    the cost of parts and labor are up to an average of $400, I’ll blame that on
    inflation. I bite the bullet and hire
    another repairman because I was too cheap to throw this unit away and buy a new
    TV. I should have just invested a little
    more money on a brand new TV set, but hindsight is 20/20.






    This time, I ask the
    repairman a lot of questions like a student and watch his work like an
    eagle. He was very sympathetic and tried
    his best to educate me on this issue. I
    learned that these particular convergence amps (also known as IC’s) get very
    hot and blow out after a few years. He
    also noted that over 80% of rear projection TVs will have convergence problems
    due to this faulty convergence amp. The
    problem has become so prevalent that many repairmen are using an upgraded
    version of this part. The original
    installed part number is STK 392–110; the upgraded part number is STK 392–180. Apparently, the STK392–110 lacks in thermal
    performance. Simply put, they get too
    hot and finally they blow. Another thing
    he mentioned was that when this part was originally installed by Panasonic, the
    folks at the manufacturing plant were not applying the thermal compound grease
    on these ICs efficiently, thereby causing more heat to build on the IC and
    again causing it to blow.






    Fast forward to February 2008. My horizontal blue convergence is out! I’m not paying anyone to fix it! I want Panasonic to take some responsibility
    and remedy my situation. On a whim, I
    googled my TV’s model number on the internet, PT47WX49E. There were hundreds, if not thousands of
    others with the same problem. There were
    way too many posts and forums regarding this issue. I was appalled to find that the convergence
    was blowing out on average of 2–4 years.
    It wasn’t just my particular TV model; several other Panasonic models
    were having the same problems. Now, would
    I have purchased this unit for over $2,000 if I knew that it would have
    problems after 2 years? That would be a
    definite NO.






    I’ve called Panasonic at
    800–211–7262 several times to absolutely no avail. Though they were somewhat polite, they were
    not helpful at all. In fact, I felt as
    though I was talking to a recording each time.
    The so–called reps knew nothing about the products they were selling to
    the public! All they could say was that
    the TV was no longer under warranty or there are no known recalls on this
    particular model or something similar in nature. They suggested I hire an authorized Panasonic
    repair technician!






    I am well educated, but I am
    not wealthy by any means. I don’t have the luxury of paying $400 every 2 years
    to maintain this faulty TV. Even if I
    did have the money, this is principally WRONG on every level! This is purely a manufacturing defect. Panasonic used a faulty part. No one buys a TV with the expectation of it
    lasting less than 2 to 3 years. I feel
    terrible inside. My parents are out of a
    TV for the third time. They are in their 70’s, and this is pretty much how they
    get their source of news and entertainment.
    I just can’t afford another TV or another repair for that matter.






    At this point, I am at my
    wit’s end. Has there been a class action
    suit against Panasonic yet? Or is it in
    the works as I write this? I refuse to
    sit back and take this from Panasonic.
    Who wants to file a class action suit against them with me? I’ve spent way too much time, money and
    energy on this issue. We need to be
    compensated.







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  • 579 Answers

You have a problem with the STK convergence modules. They're on the center circuit board attached to an aluminum heat sink that's about 8" long and 6" tall. You may be able to recreate the problem (hour glass effect) by gently moving the heat sink (which the modules are connected to). This gives the hour glass effect on the picture and the advanced convergence screen. This is an indication that the modules pins aren't solidly connected (meaning soldered) properly. Remove the circuit board (not sure what you mean by white clips, but you should be able to take out just the convergence board) and clean the old solder off & resolder the modules pins to the circuit board reconnected the board and then retest by again pushing on the heat sink. The "factory" job was good enough for 3-4 years but the heat (and these modules do create a lot of heat) and stress created from repeated use eventually takes it's toll, weakens the pin connections and our problem occurs. take the appropriate cautions working around the high voltage of the set & use a non-conducting piece of plastic to push the heat sink when doing tests.
If soldering doesn't help, then the modules have died and need replacing. Don't buy the $10 cheap ones. Most of them have an upgraded version that is stronger. Also look for any burned resistors in the vicinity of the modules.
Best of luck, hope ya fix it.

Posted on Feb 25, 2008

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1 Answer

Correct convergence ic chip for panasonic PT-47X54J


Original is stk-392=110

It works fine and you can use the 150 which is a higher current device--forget using any others===the chips fail not because they cannot handle the current but because the heat sink compound which transfers heat from them to the heat sink dries out over time from the heat being transferred in the normal process.

Make sure you get all the old white grease off and clean the metal with alcohol etc---old grease left behind can actually inhibit the transfer of heat.

Pretty simple but a lot of folks seem to miss that fact.

Always someone who wants a BIGGER or more POWERFUL part---either chip will have a five to eight year life on average (heat compound will be dried out again by that time.)

Jun 13, 2012 | Panasonic Televison & Video

Tip

How to find and replace a defective vertical IC.


When your TV works, has sound, good indicator light but all you have for a picture is a horizontal line across the screen, you have no vertical drive. This can be caused by the IC overheating or a power spike. In addition if you have a newer TV (projector) it may not turn on and will only blink an error code.

This is not a difficult fix but requires patience, good soldering skills and dilligence. Begin by unplugging the set and removing the rear lower area. Around the perimeter of the section you will see screws. Some will have arrows pointing at them. Remove all these screws and remove the rear cover.

Now you should be able to see the entire chassis. It will be mounted on a plastic frame and will consist of two or more circuit boards. The one, usually on the left, will be a small signal board. The one on the right will be the low voltage power supply, high voltage power supply and you guessed it, the vertical drive section.

The vertical IC is located near where the wires from the yoke which are red,green,yellow and blue terminate on the main board. The yoke is a large coil on the rear of the CRT which spreads the beam. It is slid over the glass CRT. Follow the wires (which should be green, yellow, blue and red to the circuit board. This will be the vacinity of the vertical IC. It will be mounted to a large heat sink and generally the designation begins with "LA" followed by 4 numbers. Panasonics generally begin with TDA.

Once located, remove and replace the unit. Removing the unit will probably require removing the circuit board. This involves removing all the screws around the perimeter of the board and any which you find in the center of the board. Do not force it, if it will not move easily look for and remove more screws.

You can get the replacement parts at http://www.encompass.com . Make sure you clean off the old heat sink compond and reinstall new heat sink silicone also available at the same web site. The heat sink compound facilitates heat transfer to the heat sink and keeps the IC cool. Generally the ICs are run at a high output and get very hot.

After replacement of the IC check all the safety resisters near it for continuity and also any and all diodes for integrity. These parts would be in the vicinity of the heat sink. Removing the IC may require prying it off the heat sink as many times the heat sink compound acts like a glue.

If everything checks ok you should have a working set.

If you do not have vertical drive, you will need a schematic to find the power source for the IC and test the circuit to see if it has the proper voltages.

You can sometimes get schematics from http://www.encompass.com but they do not have all of them. If you do not mind paying about $16.00 US you can get any service manual from http://www.servicemanuals.net .

Once the proper power is supplied to the IC you should have a working set.

Remember to use an isolation transformer anytime you are going to check voltages in the set. Modern TVs have the chassis attached to neutral making a 60 volt difference between the chassis and hot side. This means that if you do not use an isolation transformer and apply a DVM with a low path of resistance you will cause a direct short and blow the fuse, if you are lucky. Also remember to be careful when measuring voltages as there are lethal voltages in a TV when plugged in and running.

Thanks for using FixYa and for the great rating.

hardrocko

on May 11, 2010 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

When you try to turn the tv on, all you get is a blinking red light, if you unplug for awhile, sometime it will come on.


Symptom: tv turns on, tv clicks once, red light comes on. Then, tv either works for a while, followed by a click, no video, normal sound and flashing red light; or, tv immediately clicks, no video, no sound, red light flashes. If that is the problem, you need to replace the convergence ICs. I had to do this twice. The two convergence ICs are mounted on palm-sized aluminum heat sinks. The heat sinks are soldered to the main circuit board. There are 4 pins soldered to the board for each heat sink, and 18 pins soldered to the board for each IC. Some of the heat sink pins are a bit difficult to desolder. The pins for the ICs are not difficult to desolder, but you must be careful not to overheat them. The heat sink and the IC come out as a unit, after all pins are desoldered. The IC is screwed to the heat sink. The correct replacement IC is a Sanyo STK392-110. I got mine from B&D Enterprises. They were not expensive. The new ICs need to be mounted to the heat sink with a heat transfer paste. I used Arctic Silver from my computer processor heat sink. Installation of the heat sink/IC assembly is a bit tricky, since you have to align all 18 IC pins and the 4 heat sink pins. When all the pins are visible through the holes in the circuit board, resolder everything. The TV should now work. Be sure to replace both ICs. My first repair was done by a technician, who obviously only replaced one. That repair only lasted a couple years, before the problem returned.

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Your TV is experiencing a convergence issue as indicated by the 3 blinks. The only way to fix this is replacing the convergence ICs. It is not a hard task to replace these ICs. You just need to know how to solder and work on printed circuit boards.

The convergence ICs are mounted on a large heat sink and are marked with codes starting with the letters STK and there are two of them. You need to replace both.

Look for the heat sink with two ICs mounted on it and check the markings.

Once found, cut the IC legs with a small side cutter and unscrew it from the heat sink. Remove the legs left soldered on the board.

Take note of the IC markings for ordering the right part and how it was installed. Don't forget to buy along with the IC a thermal compound.

Check the pico fuses on the same board. Most likely you will find a blown one. These fuses look very much like a resistor, not like the usual transparent fuse, and usually yellow.

Once you have the replacement ICs, put it on the board in the same way as it was installed before. Make sure the screw holes are aligned before soldering the legs into the board.

Put a reasonable amount of thermal grease/compound between the ICs and the heat sink and fix them with the screws.

Double check the board for any splash of solders that might cause a short circuit and damage the board.


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Trty re-soldering the circuit board that contains the STK convergence modules. They're on the center circuit board attached to an aluminum heat sink that's about 8" long and 6" tall, about dead center in the circuit board. You may be able to recreate the problem (hour glass effect) by gently moving the heat sink (which the modules are connected to). This gives the hour glass effect on the picture and the advanced convergence screen. This is an indication that the modules pins aren't solidly connected (meaning soldered) properly. Remove the circuit board and clean the old solder off & resolder the modules pins to the circuit board reconnected the board and then retest by again pushing on the heat sink. This is a caused by a minimum effort (a.k.a. minimum cost) solder job, probably done in some 3rd world sweat shop. The "factory" job was good enough for 3-4 years but the heat (and these modules do create a lot of heat) and stress created from repeated use eventually takes it's toll, weakens the pin connections and our problem occurs. take the appropriate cautions working around the high voltage of the set & use a non-conduting piece of wood to push the heat sink when we doing tests. Best of luck, hope ya fix it.

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