Question about Panasonic NN-T993SF Microwave Oven

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Door switch part number

The wire connector which connects to the door switch/cutout (turns off power when door is open) fried and i need to replace. The connector rund from the little black door switch down to the base of the unit, presumably into the motherboard. My problem is i have no idea what the actual name of this particular part is or the accurate part number. If there is a wiring schematic somewhere, i could easily identify it. Thanks for any help.

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  • Panasonic Master
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Normally these use what are called "Postive Lock" terminals, but regular "FastOn" terminals in either 3/16" or 1/4" size will work just fine too.

They are available at most hardware stores and stores like Home Depot and Builder's Square.

It may be inline or right-angle, insulated or non-insulated. But none of that really matters as long as it will fit without interference or shorting.

You can take one of the old ones with you to match it up.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Door switch part number - 592f1d0.jpg

Posted on Feb 25, 2008

  • William Miller
    William Miller Feb 25, 2008


    Sorry that photo got cut off - here's a better version:

  • William Miller
    William Miller Feb 25, 2008

    Only helpful??

    Need more info?

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BEFORE DOING ANYTHING DISCONNECT OVEN FROM POWER. I do NOT recommend doing repair by yourself, if you NOT are really very familiar with electric repair, or have at least basic training in electric device repair and maintenance.
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This is mostly caused by loose connections on wiring socket, and can be anywhere inside. Check security micro switch on door latch. This switch normally disables only running the oven when door is open, for security reasons. In your case, it seems that opening door disconnects oven from input power. Sometimes the switch is loose, or wires are not firmly pushed in the socket. If the power line wiring is loose, and by opening door looses contact with socket, it can touch metal housing inside, cause short, electric shock, serious even mortal injury and fire. This is dangerous high voltage switch, and to access it one must open oven from the back and take off the cover. I do not recommend doing it by your self.
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Seriously, check those door switches again (especially the top one and bottom one). Check them in place with the door both open and closed, and make sure you have continuity in 1 case (door closed) and open circuit in the other case (door open). You probably need to pull off the wire connectors to make sure you are getting an accurate reading.

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1. If door latched:
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  2. Check wires and connectors from control to door switch, then from door switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step 3.
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You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number with suffix from the tag here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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It is likely a bad door switch or mount. See the help file here.

On some models, the door switches, fuses, and TCOs / thermal cutouts / thermostats must be checked, too. See photo below.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit - behind the back, behind the control panel, or hidden on the left side behind the grille - which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.


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I finally was able to fix similar problem. The "primary" door switch (top switch) had a burned contact inside the switch body, as well as burned surrounding plastic. It would no longer "click" and tended to stay in "closed" position. [The switch is a "normally open" design (NO).] When this occurs and the door is opened, the "monitor" switch causes the fuse to blow out. GE wants $50 for this part. However, I was able to find a universal design of microswitch at Fry's Electronics. It had the same rating (15 amp at 250 volts), same body size, both NO and NC terminals, but with a lever arm which I had to remove by opening the case. Cost was $2.47 + tax. (PRICELESS!). So far so good. I also had to buy a set of Torx driver bits for tamperproof screws to be able to remove the oven cover. (The hole in the end of the bit goes over the tamperproof pin of the screw).
I also viewed a YouTube video which was helpful at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsWTCnACqdY

Oct 21, 2010 | GE JE2160 Microwave Oven

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When I turn on my oven for cleaning it shows a f9 problem...could you help me with that


An F9 error code on a General Electric oven indicates that the oven's electronic control system has detected a problem with the automatic door lock. The automatic door lock mechanism prevents the oven door from being opened when the oven is set for "Clean" mode. The malfunction may be a jammed door lock mechanism, a pinched or broken wire, a faulty lock switch or a fault in the control board itself.

Things You'll Need:
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  • Phillips screwdriver
#step1

Disconnect power to the oven.
#
Step 2

Open the oven door. Remove three screws from underneath the oven's control panel. Lift the control panel straight up to disengage the mounting pins on the top corners of the panel, then tip the panel toward you.
#
Step 3

Inspect the door lock mechanism. The mechanism is in the lower left area of the space behind the control panel. Rotate the cam on the door lock mechanism to be certain it moves without binding. Replace the mechanism if its mechanical parts do not function properly.
#
Step 4

Inspect the wires that connect the door lock mechanism to the control panel. Check for pinched or broken wires. Check for wires with frayed insulation. Repair wires as needed if defects are present.
#
Step 5

Locate the six-pin connector on the door lock motor on the right end of the door lock mechanism.
#
Step 6

Rotate the cam on the door lock mechanism to the unlocked position. Test the resistance between Pin 3 and Pin 1 of the door lock connector with the ohmmeter. The resistance should be 0. Replace Lock Switch 2 of the door lock mechanism if the resistance reads other than 0.
#
Step 7

Rotate the cam on the door lock mechanism to the locked position. Test the resistance between Pin 3 and Pin 2 of the door lock connector with the ohmmeter. The resistance should be 0. Replace Lock Switch 1 of the door lock mechanism if the resistance reads other than 0.
#
Step 8

Contact a certified repair facility if the source of the F9 code has not been discovered.
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Do not perform troubleshooting on the oven with the power connected. Personal injury and damage to the oven can result.

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If those and wiring are okay, the board's low voltage transformer should be getting power.

(
We regularly repair such control units for customers nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week or so with a one-year guarantee.)

We have the service / repair manuals for these models and have uploaded them to our site here and here for free download to help you.

They will give you safety info, step by step help in disassembly, troubleshooting tips, and part numbers.

Most computers will open this document automatically, but you may need the free Adobe Reader.

You can order parts from Encompass here or you can call them toll-free at 866-779-5835.

Let em know if I can help further, otherwise...

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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