Re: service to Whirlppol MH7130xez-1, circuit breaker...
Water may have leaked inside unit causing a short.the transformer output is about 1400 volts that feeds a large capacitor. a direct short can blow the transformer instantly or any support parts without time to burn something. creating little or no smell. I never sujest that a person
to try to repair a microwave oven because
the capacitor can still be charged and very lethal.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If it went dead almost
immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted
high-voltage capacitor. See here.
If it went dead
several seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a
high-voltage transformer. See here.
it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open
the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch
mount. See this file.
You can find
exploded views and order parts by entering your model number (from the tag in or on the unit) at the Sears
BUT once you have the
part number from the Sears site, you can often get the parts
should also be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating
our Web site, we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating
of our answer.
It appears your magneto or power supply has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing. I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information. RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell. In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
Model number is on the side of the control or along he bottom of the frame. The control panel should be removable with a screw or 2 and sliding up to unlatch. the fuse is behind there. To remove it off the wall there is 2 screws coming down from the cabinet above and the unit tips towards you and lifts up off a lip on the back plate. Eric
Thanks for responding. It is a EWave KOT-152UW. I think EWave is part
of Magic Chef. I think it is the door switch. When I opened the
microwave, the circuit breaker tripped. I reset the circuit breaker,
and it worked for several days, but the last time, the microwave went
dead. The reason I want to use the same bracket is it has through the
wall (horizontal) venting to the outside, and I am not keen on trying
to cut more holes.
First (and most likely) the circuit is being overloaded. This kitchen circuit may be shared with another appliance (like the refrigerator) which is drawing enough power when both are running to trip the breaker. A Typical kitchen circuit is 20 amp with #12 wiring. So an 1800 watt microwave might draw 13 or 14 amps while a fridge compressor kicking in can surpass 7 amps before it levels off. If this is an older home the kitchen may have a 15 amp circuit with #14 wiring. If the circuit is a 20 amp you will have to split the appliances onto separate circuits. (Under code a kitchen must have a minimum of 2 separate appliance circuits). If it is a 15 amp you might be able to split them as well or may be looking up upgrading the breaker and the wiring from 15amp #14 to 20 amp #12 (but you could still have the same problem).
The other possibility is a short or loose connection. If splitting appliances onto their own circuits doesn't fix this you would probably want an electrician to come in and check for other underlying causes which could represent a fire hazard.
IF YOU HAVE THE MICRWAVE PLUGGED IN AND THE CIRCUIT BREAKER TRIPS IMMEDIATELY WHEN SET,
CHECK THE DOOR HOOKS THAT TRIP THE DOOR SWITCHES. BOTH SHOULD BE SPRING LOADED. THERE SHOULD BE TWO HOOKS ON THE DOOR. IF O.K., CHECK THE DOOR SWITCHES. THERE ARE AT LEAST THREE. IF ONE OF THEM IS SHORTED CLOSED,
THE MONITOR SWITCH WILL CAUSE A DEAD SHORT ACROSS THE FUSE. THE FUSE MAY BE HOLDING BETTER THAN YOUR CIRCUIT BREAKER.