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Re: False fish readings
False fish readings are commonly caused by electrical interference such as alternator noise, and by air bubbles flowing across transducer.
For starters make sure your fishfinder is on an independent circuit and not on one powered by your ignition switch. In other words, you should be able to turn your fishfinder on, even though the engine is turned off. Ideally the fishfinder should be wired directly to the battery with an in line fuse.
Try running the boat at a speed slightly higher than trolling speed, then kill the engine, as the boat slows down to trolling speed do you still see false echos? If yes then the problem probably lies with how the transducer is mounted, or where it is located on the hull.
If you don't see the false echos when the engine is off, it may be necessary to reroute the transducer cable to keep it away from the boat's ignition wires. You can get transducer extension cables if necessary. Also there are filters that you can buy that suppress alternator noise buy attaching between the battery and the engine.
Another common cause of false echos from electrical interference is a transducer cable that has been cut and spliced.
I hope this information helps. Please reply if you have any questions about my response.
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I would use slip rings to tie existing cable to prop motor support shaft and mount transducer to motor housing. 'slip ring'--metal ring a little bigger than shaft with a nipple the size of the cable. OR call the bird at 1-800-633-1468 or www.humminbird.com/Category/Company/Contact-Us/ and use some southern/country slang when talking. Best of luck 'you all'.
Pay attention if depth readings shift during times when moving from spot to spot at higher speeds. If this is the case then you have air bubbles disrupting your sonar signal causing inaccurate readings or a loss of bottom lock for the unit. If over this weeds in shallow water, this at times creates havoc with sonar readings because of the wide variance of signal returns.
check the voltage at the head unit.You should have a minimum of 11.7 volts. 12.5 to 13.5 is optimal
lower power input can affect the overall performance of your unit.
The transducer installation is more important than anything.. next to correct wiring! You must make sure the mounting is good,,, if its outside the hull, make sure its sitting 1/16th below the hull with no obstructions.. if its inside the hull, the medium you used to fix the puck to the hull must be porosity free and the puck sitting as level with the WATER as possible..
Now, take the manual to the lake with you and DO NOTHING but read the manual and apply what you read to the unit,,, read -repeat - read-repeat.. forget about fishing... now read-repeat and learn... IF nothing seems to be reading correctly.. its probably the transducer installation.. YOU DID use a/the transducer specifically for this unit!!
When my depth finder acted like this I found out it was the sender that had not done well over the winter and was giving me false readings especially when the boat was at speed. The sender and cable only cost around 30 or $40. The hard part was since I have a pontoon boat getting under the Pontoon and replacing the wire in the spring when the water was cold.
Check the transducer for any damage on the front part. Also make sure there isn't any damage on the bottom of the boat that is causing air bubbles to cross the face of the transducer. If it works at slow speeds there is definitely something causing air bubbles.
Hello. Your observation is spot on and it is actually a characteristic that is always true when using sonar. Yes, your Lowrance uses the same sonar as a nuclear powered submarine does. The two factors you focus on, water depth and boat speed are perhaps, the two biggest factors when it comes to the quality of the fishfinder. The boat's engine should be in gear at an idle or just above. Experiment with your boat to find the best throttle location for good arches. Usually, a slow trolling speed works best. The depth of the fish can determine if the fish will arch on the screen. If the fish is in shallow water, the fish is not in the cone angle very long, making it difficult to show an arch. Typically, the deeper the fish, the easier it is to show an arch. If you would like a complete tutorial on Lowrance sonar, go to this link. Enjoy. http://www.lowrance.com/Support/Tips-and-Tutorials/Sonar-Tutorial/
Are you looking for the little fish symbols? Press MENU, down arrow to SONAR FEATURES and press ENT. Arrow to FISH SYMBOLS and press ENT. Press EXIT twice. Any significant return in the water will now show up as a fish symbol.
Are you looking for the fish arches? You won't get any arches unless the boat is moving and of course there are fish passing within the transducers signal. The shallower the water, the less area you are covering and less likely to get a fish return.
There is an OK guide to understanding what you see on the sonar screen at the link below. It if pretty technical but parts of it may help you out.
I don't think your old fish finder is the LMS-332C GPS Receiver listed above in the description. You don't need the speed wheel for the fish finder to function just the transducer and transducer mount. You should mount that on the back of the boat towards the center but not too close to the motor and not too close to the side of the board. Don't let it hand below the level of the boat. That should keep it from getting hit by the trailer or dragging on the bottom. Try to make it as level as possible. The green and white wires may be for the speed wheel but i'd need a model number for clarification. Hope this helps.