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Earthquake PH150.2 4chnl amp???

I bought a used Jeep and this amp came with it. Is it any good? It looks a little older, works great but cant find any info on it? Know anything about it?

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  • Brail Feb 25, 2008

    i have a 1800 watt power acoustk amps in my car and it has been working great. when i unhooked it to clean my car out and put it back in it didn't work. i put new fuses checked my hot and ground wire to see if it was hooked up and looked to see if i burned something inside the amp, everything good but nothings happing.

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You look for a dedicated fuse in the engine compartment? No shorts at all, speaker leads, ect, hook up the remote power lead form your reciever?

Posted on Mar 01, 2008

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My 2000w TNT amp blows fuses as sooooon as I put a fuse in. What is the problem with the amp. is it internal external? I also checked my wires and they all look good


Sounds like you're grounded out somewhere. I'd check your main power wire again, make sure there isn't any abrasions or cracks in the insulation. I had a Fosgate amp that would blow fuses everytime they were put in. turned out to be one of the screws to mount the amp to my floor board was grounding it out, pulled the screws and has worked fine ever since

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Your power supply is toast. Might be repairable at a electronics repair shop. But for an Earthquake amp I wouldnt waste the money.

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Fuse for power cable on earthquake PH D2


I would go with a 40 or 60 amp fuse, this should be ok, you will hardly every run the amp to full capacity so its better to be safe than sorry.

Dec 02, 2009 | Earthquake Sound PH-D2 Car Audio Amplifier

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My amp earthquake ph d2 output mosfet number...rfp 40n10


Hello luistecnico2,

Those cross-reference OK. Go to www.mouser.com and do a search on both numbers. You'll find that one of them was manufactured by STMicroelectronics and is currently obsolete. The other is manufactured by Fairchild Semiconductor and is available at a cheaper price than the original.

Hope this helps.

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4 AWG amp wire


For that amplifier you need to be running 0 gauge wire . Also check your ground to make sure you have the best connection possible.

May 16, 2009 | Power Acoustik A2400DB Car Audio Amplifier

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What would be the best amp to run two kicker cvr 12 12" subs. would i need a second battery?


Do not buy a second battery without first upgrading your alternator and wiring for the added draw. Adding another battery will make the already stressed alternator work even harder. Find an amp that has sufficient wattage to drive both subs at rms. If your subs are each rated at 600w rms then look for a 1200-1400 watt amp. Good brands are a dime a dozen these days and you don't necessarily need a kicker amp. If you wish to upgrade alternators i would suggest searching for OhioGen or Ohio Generator. .They make alternators for high current demanding systems and multiple alternator system solutions. As for amps look at names that have been around for a while like Mbquart,Soundstream (older stuff like rubicons...) ORION (older HCCA models are great) and such.

May 02, 2009 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

Went through the checklist you gave me.


Ok... but just remember this AMP is rated 750w x 1 @ 2ohms or 375w x1 @ 4ohms RMS So its a mono driver AMP works great with a single sub.

But I see kicker 750's that put out 850 sometimes 900w RMS
I do recommend using at least a 2 farad CAP and a really good battery like at least 800 cranking amps... I usually use like Yellow or Redtop(Optima) batteries 850-1400 cranking amps for kickers+ a single 2farad cap. What happens is a low amp battery will not provide enough "BAM" to keep the AMP working properly at its required voltage/load.. This is why your AMP is not even getting hot/warm its turning off to prevent "Low-Load damage"

What is the cranking AMPs and what type of battery do you have because kickers without CAPs and great batteries can destroy an Alternator reguardless of your current problem.

You should easily be able to pound your chest open and **** the oxygen out of the cab of the truck with a single sub... and the fact it went into protection mode later in the day... not right when you hopped in the truck in the morning tells me the battery might be the culprit... Not saying buy one but.. they are cheaper than a new alternator lol... and if you do blow your alternator make sure you get a higher rated alternator than recommended for your jeep. I think your wiring up to the AMP is fine... Was that sub hitting in the morning?? did it take your breathe away? What type of speakers and what size?

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Cant figure out my car audio problems!!!!!


There are a couple of tests you can perform. I'd first recommend checking the shield ground. You'll need an ohm meter. The details can be found on the following page.

RCA shield ground test

You can also test the output with the multimeter. Set the multimeter to AC volts. If it's not an auto-ranging meter, set it to a voltage range of ~2v AC. Disconnect the RCA cables from the head unit. Touch one meter probe to the outer ring of the head unit's RCA jack. Touch the other probe to the metal contact in the center of the RCA jack. With the head unit near full volume and a clean signal source, you should read at least one volt on musical peaks. If you have a bass disc or a test tone disc (~60hz sine wave), use those.

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Earthquake ph-d2


The PWM IC is an SG3525. Which IC are you calling the protection IC?

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