I bought a fusion amp ( fp-1002 powerplant ) and 2 10 inch pioneer premier subs ( 350W RMS , 700W max each ) from my uncle for cheap , and i got them professionally installed at a local car electronics dealer , and about 5 hours later when i was listening to my music ( was testing settings out ) subs suddenly stoped ( i assumed it overheated so i gave it a few minutes ) , but the status light( red light ) on the amp stayed on and the subs only made small noises , my 6x9s were making more bass .... i went to the place where i got them installed at and they tested my amp connections and told me my amp was fried , but the two ( 30 ) fuses were still in mint ?? , i need to know if there is anyway to fix my amp without having to buy a new one
Re: car amp ( fusion fp-1002 powerplant ) is fried
Blown capacitors. take to a friend or electronics repair that can replace with better capacitors. had same problem with an old comp 1200 amp. friend of mine replaced with better capacitors and wooohh mamma!
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I have installed car audio equipment for over 40 years on end off. End can see you don,t have the slightest clue what in the hell your doing, Speaker wire doe,s not have to do with it cuting out, It is because of the way you hooked your subs up, That no one can explain to guys like you in writeing,How to do it properly, Number 1, That amp is 2( OHM) Stable, You should be useing 2 (OHM) subs on it,Not 4 (OHM) subs, Take it to some one that no what in the (Hell) There doing (Before) you fry your amp.
Your Directed D2400 amp is CEA2006 Compliant. It is stable at 1ohm and will produce 1,200 watts into that load. So you want your subs wired as close to 1 ohm as possible.
The only 3500 watt Pioneer Premier series subs I could find were the models number TS-W3002D2 and TS-W3002D4 with dual 2ohm and dual 4ohm voice coils respectively. The wiring options for the D2's result in 0.5ohm (too low), 2 ohms, and 8ohms. Your best option would be the 2ohm configuration which would be voice coils in series and subs in parallel. Options for the D4's result in a 1ohm load and a 4ohm load. Your best option would be the 1ohm configuration which would be voice coils and subs parallel.
To see the wiring options, try Rockford-Fosgate's "wiring wizard".
Select 2 woofers and the appropriate voice coil impedance and quantity and click "search". It'll bring up all of the possible wiring configurations along with the final impedance load.
The 230 watt amp is a little small for your subs. They'll work, but if you are looking for max SPL, you won't get it. To push those Audiobahn's to their potential pavement shaking max, I would recommend an amp in the range of 500-600 rms (2-channel bridged) or 1000 watts rms monoblock.
you are going to need an amp that can supply the right amount of rms power to make it sound good. these sony subs are rated for 380 watts rms. so in order to find an amp that will supply two, you must multiply that figure by two. so you will need an amp that can supply around 500 to 750 watts continuously (or rms). also you are going to want an amp that is either class d or class ab rated. these amps are built to push subwoofers exclusively and will give you the best efficiency and sound out of your subs. you will also want to get an amplifier is a monoblock amp, and not a stereo amplifier. make sure the amp can put out that rms rating at 2 ohms as two 4 ohm speakers equal 2 ohms wired in parallel. i have a kenwood kac9152d that puts out about 2000 watts max at 2 or 1 ohms (900 watts rms) that i used with my two sony xplod 10's for about 2 years. it was kick ***! now i dont know if you need that much power but they will handle it as long as you dont push them too hard for long periods of time, otherwise you might end up blowing them up! (depending on the box size that is, and the quality of it as well...)
i have years of car audio installation experience and can help with setting up and wiring any mobile entertainment system you can imagine. may i ask what kind of music you listen to and what kind of box do you have for these subwoofers?
bignatedabal: You can't get something more out of a device than it's rating. In other words, if you have a 400W amp that's all it's going to produce. For example if you're looking to drive both sub spkrs @ 350W each then buy a sub amp with a rating of 700W @ 2ohms & connect your 4ohm spkrs in parallel to the amp. Each spkr will produce 350W of sound if everything is installed correctly.
1 thing to look for in amp mfg's. Look for those who rate their amps in RMS power. This is the true output rating. Many amps are rated in peak-to-peak which seems great but doesn't tell you the real story, unless you know how to do the math to determine the RMS. The better mfg's will take the time to test their amps & rate them properly. Also look for massive heatsinking (the cooling fins). I consider cooling fans to be a benefit as well.
I do not reccommend that you push the Pioneer speakers over 100 watts. The jenson will already drown the car with bass through your pioneers so much you will want to turn off the bass boost when playing some low bass hip hop songs. It changes from one venue of song to another, so I just keep the jenson bass boost off and use my head unit to adjsut the sound to fit my listening prefences. I am telling you man, you will be blown away . Hook up the pioneers straight to the Channels,. do not bridge. I put Subs in my truck though. I used the Pass output to send the audio to me Jenson 2 Channel 600W amp. I drive one 10 inch enclosed JBL Class A/B Sub. I bridged the output of the 600 W amp to the 10 inch sub in my Z28. The pioneers never get drowned out. I did smoke my 2 channel Amp one time. and also took out a MTD 10inch sub. I am talk shooting flames and smoked the whole car up. I think if you bride the XA4150 to the pioneers, you will have the flaming smoke problem in no time.
it will depend on how you use the 2 alpine subs,, do you know what there individual impedance is [ ohms ] and how you intend on wiring them,,,in series, in parallel, in any case you must maintain the min load in order to load the amplifier properly,,,otherwise the amplifier will operate improperly and allow DC [ direct current ] to pass and fry your subs...so what I really need is more in formation