Question about GE JGRP17 Gas Single Oven

4 Answers

GE XL44 Gas taking long time to heat - oven flickers off after being

Broiler of oven works great.

Baking oven starts no problem, but than after about one minute gas flickers on and then almost off. When its on it seems to be coming out nice and strong but then it almost turns completely off for about 5 seconds or more.

Oven type:
Self cleaning gas ge xl44

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  • 2 more comments 
  • oesterlein Feb 25, 2008

    if the broiler is working ok would it most likely be the oven sensor? ...i guess the question I'm asking does the broiler use the thermostat when operating?

  • oesterlein Feb 25, 2008

    you think it's the igniter even though it ignites perfectly fine...it seems like it would be a sensor before the igniter

  • oesterlein Feb 25, 2008

    johnychel,

    yes glow bar ignitor glows bright red and the oven lights no problem...the problem is that after it has been lit for a few minutes it flickers off for a few seconds and then comes back on....so i think the safety valve is opening...are you saying the safety valve will close and reopen if the igniter needs replacing

  • Anonymous Mar 18, 2014

    It takes already 3 times longer for it to heat up than when it was new. The model is XL44.

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  • Master
  • 1,894 Answers

The problem with your oven is the igniter.
>> The igniter is wired in series with a safety valve.
>>The safety valve monitors the amount of electrical current flowing through the igniter
When the igniter gets "weak" it won't allow current to flow through it properly, this will keep the oven from heating.

so to solve this you will have to open the oven

here you go

Getting inside a microwave oven You will void the warranty - at least in principle. There are usually no warranty seals on a microwave so unless you cause visible damage or mangle the screws or plastic, it is unlikely that this would be detected. You need to decide. A microwave still under warranty should probably be returned for warranty service for any covered problems except those with the most obvious and easy solutions. Unplug the unit! Usually, the sheet metal cover over the top and sides is easily removed after unscrewing 8-16 philips head or hex head sheet metal screws. Most of these are on the back but a few may screw into the sides. They are not usually all the same! At least one of these includes a lockwasher to securely ground the cover to the case.
Note that on some ovens (I've heard that some Sharp models do this), there may also be one screw that is slightly longer than the others to engage a safety case interlock switch and prevent the oven from getting power if it is not present or one of the shorter screws is used in its place. So, with the cover removed, nothing is powered inside (which is a good thing for safety!). But when the cover is replaced with the screws in random locations, there's a high probability that the oven no longer works at all. Kind of like Russian Roulette. And, if it's then taken to a service center, they will know someone has been inside. If less than entirely honest, they can make any sort of claim they want as to what might have been damaged even if all you did was remove and replace the cover without touching anything inside. "The repair will be $195 because you blew out the touch panel by removing the cover."
Therefore, it is essential to make note of any differences in screw types so they can be put back in the same place. The cover will then lift up and off. Note how fingers on the cover interlock with the main cabinet - these are critical to ensure prevention of microwave leakage after reassembly.
Please see Typical Microwave Oven Electronics Bay for parts identification. Not all ovens are this wide open. If yours is a compact unit, everything may be really squeezed together. :) Details will vary depending on manufacturer and model but most of the major components will look fairly similar to those depicted in the photo. Note that for this model, the oven lamp is actually inside the electronics bay right next to the high voltage on the magnetron filament - light bulb changing here is really best left to a professional if you would otherwise not go inside!
Discharge the high voltage capacitor as described in the section: Safe discharging of the high voltage capacitor before even thinking about touching anything.
A schematic showing all of the power generation components is usually glued to the inside of the cover. How much of the controller is included varies but is usually minimal.
Fortunately, all the parts in a microwave can be easily replaced and most of the parts for the microwave generator are readily available from places like MCM Electronics, Dalbani, and Premium Parts.
Reassemble in reverse order. Take particular care to avoid pinching any wires when reinstalling the cover. Fortunately, the inside of a microwave is wide open and this is not difficult. Make sure ALL of the metal fingers around the front edge engage properly with the front panel lip. This is critical to avoid microwave emissions should the waveguide or magnetron become physically damaged in any way. Confirm that the screws you removed go back in the proper locations, particularly the one that grounds the cover to the chassis.

Posted on Feb 25, 2008

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  • GE Master
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It could be the oven sensor, door switch, thermostat. This link should help you.
check also this and this link .

Posted on Feb 25, 2008

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  • Master
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From the research that I've made I believe your problem is the igniter. There are replacement instruction here:

http://www.fixya.com/support/t142219-ge_jgrp17_gas_oven

Good Luck!

Posted on Feb 25, 2008

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  • Master
  • 796 Answers

Hello sir

Posted on Feb 25, 2008

  • isaac johny
    isaac johny Feb 25, 2008

    are u sure that there are no blocks in the gas pipeline

  • isaac johny
    isaac johny Feb 25, 2008

    more than likely your glow bar ignitor has stopped working or at least pulling enough amps to open the safety valve.take the floor out if a diffuser is on top of the burner remove it. the
    glow bar ignitor is mounted on the burner turn the oven on and watch it
    should glow bright red and in about 30 secs open the gas safety valve.
    If it does not glow you may want to verify power to the ignitor, more
    than likely the ignitor is the problem. If it glows but does not open
    the safety valev still replace the ignitor not pulling the required
    amps to open the safety valve. just put a little dish soap on the
    screws to the ignitor to help from srtripping them out

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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