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Upper and lower oven elements

Both elements went out at the same time. there is no evidence of a break on either, and the convection fan will still come on.

Is there a thermal fuse on this unit?

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  • steve4reno Feb 25, 2008

    The model # is KERC506HBS3

    Kitchenaid range with convection.



    We had an eletrical storm and I had to replace the 50 amp breaker, even though the range still worked and the oven EL and Broil EL stopped.



    I did pull out the stove and took the back cover off nothing looked fried, could it be the Thermostat?



    It didn't appear to be affected? I wouldn't think there would be a fuse hidden in between with the insulation?



    I am baffled.



    Any help would be appreciated. I am getting hungry lol

  • Ron Coons
    Ron Coons May 11, 2010

    depends who manufactures and model if avail

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  • Kitchen Ranges Master
  • 2,651 Answers

Deosnt appear to be a thermal fuse, or an over limit thermo on this particular unit. should be straight foward wiring,first ck incoming power, black to white 110,red to white 110, then red to black 220v. if thats not what you have you have electricl prob still. 110v feeds one leg of bake element, second leg comes from clock assy when bake is started( a relay closes sending power to second leg of element.good luck

Posted on Feb 26, 2008

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Immediately you have a problem by the sounds of it that is related to the heating element that is inside the oven. This is evident from the fact that you say the convection van is rotating but there is no heat being produced. Now in the case of gas ovens, yo WILL CERTAINLY NEED AN APPROVED AND ACCREDITED GAS ENGINEER BY LAW. however, electric ovens are not necesessarily regulated. If the problem is in relation to a gas oven not heating, then either your gas supply or your element/ flame emitter may either be blocked or interrupted. IF THIS IS THE CASE, STOP USING THE DEVICE AND CALL OUT A GAS ENGINEER.

The other possible problem with this device could be to do with the electronic gas regulator (if your oven as one) and this is preventing gas from being recieved into the combustion nozzles within the oven. This regulator controls the amount of gas and the temperature to which the oven is to be heated to. Should this componen malfunction then it is defaulted to switch off, for obvious safety reasons.......These units are replaceable, but may cost a small fortune, and on top of this, it is advisable to call an engineer to fit this part.

You mention that you can notice the fan rotating on the digital display, but if the fan is not actually rotating, then your problem then poiints to an electrical fault which can happen if your appliance is powered on for excessive periods of time (thermal damage). Yet again, the electronics behind ovens are fairly straight forward, and usually its either the replacement of PCBs or elements that will recify many of these faults. But if you do decide to DIY jobby the repair, at least get your work checked out IT COULD SAV YOU ALOT OF MONEY AND EVEN YOUR LIFE!!!

I wish you all the best and I hope that this information was satisfactory, please do not hesitate to contact me here if you have further comments and questions, as im always on hand to answer your questions 24hrs a day 7/365 days a year. Once again good luck, and please let me know what happens

regards

oz

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