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Indesit nbr 5000 wd

Hi, i need a fan motor assembly for the dryer section of this machine i would also like to order the heating elements for the same unit. if there is a parts manual available i would also like to purchase it as well

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  • Help Tee Mar 11, 2008

    Have an Indesit NBR 5000 WD is all it says. Also says DIS 118950278. This is a washer/dryer all in one for a motorhome. I think the heating element is bad & also the door lock handle is broken. Any idea where I can find anyone who knows anything about parts for this thing?

  • nite71 Mar 25, 2008

    I have the same washer/dryer combo in an RV. Looking for an owner's manual. Also, I don't think the blower/fan is working.



    As far as I can tell, Indesit is a European company.

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5 Suggested Answers

  • 1294 Answers

SOURCE: need a user manual for lg washer dryer wd 12331 ad

Click on washing machines, (below FIXYA) on this site, find your model, type in your model number & search. You will get a shortlist; click on your model, below the page u will get Manual/Guides. Click on the blue, you have your manual on line.
And dont forget to rate me on this great site.

Posted on Jan 21, 2008

  • 55 Answers

SOURCE: My 7 year old Malber WD 1000 won't dry - Where to order heating element?

pete5runner back again: The check you should make is to disconnect the two wires to the heating element carefully (with unit unplugged). Then connect a 110 voltmeter to the two wires. The plug in the machine and start a dry cycle. If you see 110 volts on the voltmeter, then you know that power is getting to the heating element, and you have isolated the heating element as defective. If you need a heating element, I got one in NY by calling 718-767-7396. New element was $29, shipping included. I don't know if he will ship to where you are located. Good luck, and let me know what happens.

Posted on Mar 21, 2008

  • 1462 Answers

SOURCE: Washing machine door lock

undo clamp holding door gasket on cabinet and peel gasket back in the area of the door catch.

door lock is just held in by 2 screws from the outside and will come away when these are undone. on some models, there is also a small diameter pipe going to the door lock and take this off. note where wires go before removing them

Posted on Jun 25, 2008

  • 29 Answers

SOURCE: Need service for Malber 1000 heating element..

Hi. Mike here. I repair Malbers in the Washington D.C. area. The most likely problem is not the heating element, but the hi-temp (or "brown") thermostat. They cost about $25 and are very simple to install. A "Torx 1.5" screwdriver (asterisk tip) removes two screws, in back, holding top on. Lift off top, and (from the front) see silver-foil-wrapped heating assy. At lower right will be a small philips screw holding a thin wire "hasp" which holds the thermostat in place. Remove screw and hasp (without dropping in machine!), unplug two "quiik-connect" lugs (orange & red wires) and pull out thermostat to the right. New one slips right back in. Replace wires, hasp, phillips screw and top -and you're done! This is 90% sure to fix. The heating element is only about 5% likely.
One last thing ... when re-inserting new thermostat, you'll have to "wrestle" with it a bit, as the tip needs to slip into a tiny (hard to "find") hole. Keep trying, and eventually it'll fit ALL the way in, so the hasp can hold it. To purchase part, call Joel (at Malber): 800-600-8913
Oh yeah, one MORE last thing... That red wire may be burnt a little, or completely burnt in two. Radio Shack and Home Depot sell "crimp-on" lugs (1/4") like these (female). Trim back the wire, crimp a new lug on the end, and push it back onto lower terminal on thermostat. If wire is too short, of course, add a few inches of 16 guage "stranded" (lamp cord). The same stores also sell tubular "crimp-on" wire-connectors (little blue tubes) to join the old and new wires. May God bless.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: indesit washer-dryer wd125 manual

Hi,

I've been looking for these instructions and have just stumbled across them . Just inside the door there should be a barcode. On the top right check the model no. mine is WD 12S, despite the model no on the outside being WD125.

If so, look here http://imagebank.indesitcompany.co.uk/brochures_online/pdf/indesit/Laundry/WD12S.pdf

ATB

The Mighty Lev

Posted on May 24, 2009

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If that dryer is clear of lint then most likely you just need a new heating element. If it has lint buildup in the vent and lint inside the machine I would suspect a tripped safety limit is the problem. If it appears yall have a good element and all of the safetys have continuity then you might have a bad timer. Most American models have 120 volt motors however the element is 5000 watts and works on 240 volts. If the breaker was bad the dryer would run but you would have no heat. Rare but it happens.
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No heat in dryer, sparks coming from heater


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. The symptom you describe is typical of a broken heating element. The heating element on GE models comes as an assembly. Item 1215 of this link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=208108&diagram_id=21357126#d21357126

Your dryer has a single element and I do not know of a single element "re-string" element kit for the single element dryers. You may be able to contact a local appliance parts & repair source to find the roughly $40.00 element only replacement part. As far as I know the "element only" has been dis-continued. Sadly this reults in a substantial cost to the consumer to purchase the whole assembly at $160 - $172.00. There may be new old stocks still on the shelf somewhere for the element only. I would at least make a few local appliance repair parts calls before ordering the assembly.
Just doing the math as to what you may expect to have the dryer repaired by a technician.
Costs:
Service call $50 - 75.00
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Part: $160.00 + shipping / tax
Your looking at nearly a $300.00 repair on the low end of costs and they only go up from there. (Just being VERY honest)
The can be additional problems that are found like a belt, idler, drum guide, or a blower fan. Often elements fail due to poor airflow that is caused by either blocked air flow or a broken blower fan.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly


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I need to change the heating element on my dryer. how do I do this?


The exact process will depend on the model of dryer. I would suggest starting by looking at the assembly diagram for the dryer. You posted the question in the Kenmore section, so assuming that it is correct, you can get these diagrams from the Sears website. You can also order a new heating element there.

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Need instructions on replacing heating element in whirlpool gold dryer model GEQ9800LW


For the model number you have listed, you can replace the heating element by following these steps:

1. UNPLUG the dryer. Dangerous voltage is still present inside the dryer even when it is shut off.

2. Remove the lower toe panel under the dryer door. The panel comes off by inserting a putty knife along the top seam of the panel about 2 inches in from each side. There is a retaining clip on each side that you must depress in order for the panel to pop open. Open the panel and remove.

3. Open the dryer door and remove the lint filter. NOTE: You cannot remove the blower fan duct assembly with the lint screen in place (next step).

4. Locate the screws that hold the blower fan duct assembly in place and remove. Remove the ground wire and auto dry sensor wire as well (if attached to the duct assembly).

5. With the blower fan duct assembly removed, the heating element should be easily accessible on the right hand side.

6. Locate the Hi-Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) located on the left-hand side of the heater box (these are the two small components on the outside of the heater box with wires attached to them on the left hand side. Disconnect the wires. NOTE: Make sure you label where they go.

7. The entire heater box with all components attached will come out by removing a single screw on the front bracket. Remove the screw and the entire heater box will pull free of the exhaust duct in the rear.

8. With the heater box removed, the heating element will pull out from the front by removing the mounting screws along the side of the heater box.

You can view and exploded view diagram of what I am describing by going to pcappliancerepair.com. The heating components are listed under Section 3.

The list of components are as follows:

Heating Element - Item 14
Blower Fan Duct Assembly - Item 45
Heater Box - Item 46
Thermal Cut-Out - Item 47
Hi-Limit Thermostat - Item 48
Heater Box Bracket - Item 50

If you have questions, please let me know.

NOTE: If you are experiencing problems with the dryer not producing heat, it may not be the heating. If you've confirmed the heating element to be faulty, great. If you haven't, please read through the following:

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.

The part numbers you may need are as follows:

Heating Element - 3387747
Thermal Cut-Out/Thermostat Kit - 279769

NOTE: If a replacement power cord is required, you can purchase them at any hardware store.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

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If you don't hear the fan running then the fan motor has gone bad. If the fan motor is bad then most likely your element has burned out. If you hear the fan motor than probably your element has gone bad..

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Take off the back plate of the drier to expose heating elements. There you will find two thermo switches, one with a hole in the middle of it. Push something like a pin into this hole until you hear a click. Re assemble back plate and it should work now

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