It seems to have tripped out my whole system and this was incorrectly diagnosed by Cancom as a fault with the power supply in my G5. Having sent it off to their service centre at great expense I was told that the system is 100% ok. It wasn't until I got it home after 2 weeks away & tried plugging the monitor back in when it became apparent it was the screen. The power supply in the Mac just makes a 'click-click click-click click-click' noise, whether I have the screen plugged in on switching the mains on or if I tried to plug the screen in while the Mac is running. My limited electronic experience leeds me to feel this may be a fuse problem in the monitor & the G5 has a safety cut-out built in, but I'm just guessing.
I do not really wish to pay a large sum to ship it to Formac only to find it is non-repairable (as I have already done so with Cancom). It would of course make me particularly unhappy if I find I do need a new screen as it is still under 4 years old & at £410 that's over £100 per year running costs which I find unacceptable.
Any help or advice you can offer would be most appreciated.
Right I got my formac monitor open by removing the Bezel, it's tricky
but not too hard. The casing is suprisingly flexible and forgiving. The
clips are backed by a double sided tape on all four edges. Start from the top and give the tape time under tension to come unstuck, it will, a bit like a plaster. Oh yes, unplug before continuing. Inside there are four HEX #4 (5/64 inch) screws holding the display inside the chassis. These can be removed, on the back side of the panel is the power/controller board. And remaining in the chassis is the Cold Cathode power board (long thin one on one side). This can be unplugged to get more range on the cables. (remember which way it goes in, I use a marker pen over the plug and socket to show me where to put it back) The Controller board has a number of power components. Firstly there are 5 power diodes, they all seem to respond properly under a meter in my screen. There remains one linear voltage regulator LT1117 and two 500Khz Step down switch mode regulators, LT1374. These devices are most suspect for causing the over current draw. Replace them if you can do this with ease. However most regulators have inbuilt protection. So it is also possible that a support component such as a resistor or capacitor has failed causing the other components to operate outside of their intended parameters. I will post some pics of the board later.
what happened to my G4 is--as i was on it, it just gave in--tic tic tic..black image on the screen and no more power. the computer turned off with the Formac monitor turning black, and then i could not get the mac to turn back on. turns out it was not the computer, it is the monitor: i can turn the mac on IF the monitor is not plugged into it; but if it is, it'll act as if there's no electricity; and if i attach the monitor while the mac is on, it will turn off the computer at contact.
could this be the same as above, or still a different issue? no idea on how to procede..
thanks for any advice,
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Code P0463 refers to the fuel gauge sending unit circuit and P0499 refers to the Canister Purge Solenoid circuit - two totally different circuits.
The reference to "good trip equal to zero" requires the use of a scanner that is capable of reading the data stream from the various Circuits. Many inexpensive scanners are really only "code readers" and will output only the fault codes. They cannot provide you with much of the information required to properly diagnose and repair the problem.
The way a circuit is diagnosed changes completely if the problem is an intermittant problem and is not occuring at the time the circuit is being tested. The data stream will give the fault code and tell you how many trips the vehicle has made without the failure reoccuring. For example, if the circuit failed three trips ago and worked on the next three trips, the good trip count will be "3". If the good trip count is "0" this means that the circuit is failing right now. The troubleshooting charts will send you to different steps depending on whether the fault is current or whether it is an intermittant fault.
There is a lot of misconception in the general public about what fault codes actually do. A lot of people think that you simply plug in the "Magic Box" and it tells you exactly what is wrong with the car and what parts to replace. If anyone finds one of those please let me know...I WANT ONE!!!
What fault codes actually do is give an indication that one of the circuits or systems that are monitored by the computer is malfunctioning. They NEVER tell you what parts to replace. It is up to the person making the repairs to diagnose the malfunctioning circuit or system to determine if any "parts" are actually even needed. Many codes can be fixed by making a simple wiring repair (like cleaning a connector) without replacing any parts.
My arc fault breaker trips in my bedroom when ever a load is put on line. The trunk line comes into a three gang switch box and feeds the entire room. At times I can turn my ceiling fan and light on for 10 to 20 minutes before the breaker trips. Other times the breaker will trip when either switch is first turned on. I plugged a 4 watt night light in a wall receptical, without the ceiling light or fan on, it also trips the breaker. I have had other plug in lamps, 60 watt, work in other recepticals for a while. The problem seems to appear in all recepticals and lighting in the room.