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Presario 6330us push button power switch

The two wires (1 red, 1 black) broke off of the push button power switch on the front of computer. Is it possible to solder the wires back on to the power switch. If so how would i know which wire went where?? I can see the 2 posts on the back of the power switch where the wires broke off. Just unsure which color wire goes to which post. Thank You!!

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Hello!

If you know where the two connection came from then You can solder it vice versa because can be connected either. That is reversible connection as long as connected parallel from the motherboard. there is no problem with that just connect onto post1wireblack, post2redwire.

May this help.

best regards, Melnavz

Posted on Feb 24, 2008

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Our 7788F keeps going into a ground fault condition. Need help troubleshooting. John


Ground Fault ???
Troubleshooting Ground Fault

Troubleshooting a ground fault circuit interrupt, or GFI, breaker is pretty straightforward. Troubleshooting the circuit itself can be quite time-consuming.
The GFI breaker is designed with a test button incorporated into the breaker itself.
Pushing the test button should trip the breaker.
On GFI-style breakers the neutral wire going into the house's outlets is connected to the breaker's neutral connector, the white neutral that comes out of the breaker is connected to the neutral bus in the panel, isolating the neutral bus from the neutral wire going into the house.
The test button actually shorts the neutral wire feeding the circuit to the neutral bus in the electrical panel creating a ground fault that should trip the breaker.
It is considered a ground fault because the neutral bus in the main electrical panel is actually connected to the ground bus through the panel's metal casing. What to do if the test button isn't tripping the breaker
1
Push the test button on the GFI breaker.
The breaker should trip.
If the breaker does not trip, then it may be that the breaker has already tripped and just looks like it's on.
The position of the switch may only move slightly from the on position towards the off position when tripped.

2
Push the switch on the GFI breaker all of the way toward the off position.
It may take some force to get the breaker to reset.
Turn the breaker back to the on position.
When the breaker has been reset properly you should feel some resistance when pushing the switch back on.



3 Push the test button again and the breaker should trip.
If the breaker still doesn't trip then you should test for power at the screw connections inside of the electrical panel.
Remove the screw that holds the dead front covering the breaker's connections.
Remove the dead front cover.

4
Test for power with your voltmeter set on AC volts on the highest scale.
For a single pole GFI breaker, touch the black lead from the tester to the silver screw on the GFI breaker and touch the red lead from the tester to the brass screw on the GFI breaker.
You should see 110 volts on the tester. If voltage is seen but the test button won't trip the breaker, then the breaker is bad and should be replaced.

5
Test for power on a two pole breaker by touching the red voltmeter lead to one of screws with a black or red wire connected to it.
Touch the black lead to the other screw with a black or red wire connected to it.
You should read 220 volts or close to it on your voltmeter.
If you read voltage and the test button won't trip, the breaker is bad and needs to be replaced.

What to do if the breaker won't reset and keeps tripping when turned on
6
Unplug everything that is plugged into any of the outlets on the circuit in question.
Try resetting the breaker again by pushing the switch all the way to the off position and then turning it back to the on position.
If it won't reset and trips when the breaker's switch hits the on position, it could be a bad breaker or a problem in the circuit itself.
7
Use your straight-tipped screwdriver to loosen the brass connection screw or screws on the GFI breaker.
Pull the black hot wire, or wires, out of the breaker's connectors.
Loosen the silver screw the white wire is connected to and remove it from the GFI breaker.

8
Push the switch all the way to the off position.
Turn the switch back to the on position.
If the breaker still won't reset, then the problem is the breaker itself and it should be replaced with a new one of the same size, brand and model.
If the breaker resets normally and the test button trips the breaker when pushed, the problem is in the circuit itself and an electrician should be called to find your ground fault.

9
Reconnect the black wire, or wires, to the brass screws on the GFI breaker.
Reconnect the white wire to the silver screw on the GFI breaker.

10
Replace the dead front cover into the breaker panel.
Install the screw or screws that hold the dead front in place.



http://www.hilo-electric.com/blank?pageid=63

Aug 14, 2013 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

I need to find a new power button for my acer t690 . the old one craped out the spring and now cant use my desk top <sad and cryin> please help


Making a (DIY) Do It Yourself switch will cost you less rather than replacing it with the same switch, if you cant find one.
Tool's
Soldering Iron Soldering lead Desoldering tool (Optional) Shrinkable tube. Wires (Optional)
it might still work, most casing switches looks like this
Figure1: Power Switch with cable and female header pcsyke_33.jpg

Motherboard pcsyke_34.jpg

1. Open your casing, trace the wires of your Power Switch. cut and replace the power button if found defective. some samples of PS buttons.. pcsyke_37.jpg
pcsyke_39.jpg
2. Solder the black and red wires to your new power switch. put the shrinkable tube, apply heat to shrink.
pcsyke_42.jpg


Hopefully this helps. Sorry I don't have actual images.
Thank you for posting.

Jul 07, 2011 | Acer Aspire T690 (AST690UP820A) PC...

1 Answer

GE Timer #15086 has red, white, green, black wires. Wall has white, black & black wires and switch sits between 3 other light switches. (I am replacing the current timer which only has 3 wires and...


GE 15086 programmable timer replaces single-pole switch only.
Single pole means 1 device turns Load on-off.
3-way is where 2 devices turn Load on-off, for example 2 switches located in hallway.

Your existing timer has white, black and blue wires.
Your new timer has white, black, red and green wires.
Green wire connects to bare ground wire in every occasion with every wiring device.

Electricians don't guess, they test the other wires.

Remove old timer.
Separate wires for testing.
Turn on power.
Tape ordinary tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on Hot wire. The Hot wire will connect to timer black wire.
Now test Hot wire to each other wire (except bare ground)
Tester will light up on Neutral wire. Neutral wire connects to timer white wire.

The remaining wire connects to timer red wire.
After connecting timer, push manual override button to check that Load turns on-off.

Manual override on 15086 is the door that covers buttons > use door as push button to check Load.
Next, program the timer.
Programming is straightforward and similar to other timers.
If you have a problem, add a comment.

You can also take advantage of Fixya phone support. Expert will walk you through the steps for a price.

Dec 22, 2010 | Hardware & Accessories

1 Answer

GE digital timer. Instructions say to: 1) connect Hot/live wire of main to black wire of timer, 2) connect neutral (White) wires together, 3) connect Hot/live wire of load to red from timer. 4) green to...


Find the Hot wire:
Your switch has 2 wires. One of these wires is Hot, and one goes to load. Disconnect wires from switch. Turn on power. Do not stand on wet surface. Test each wire to bare copper wire. When tester lights up, that is Hot wire. The other wire goes to load.

Connect wires:
Hot wire goes to Black timer wire
Wire to load goes to Red timer wire
White wire connects to white wires that are twisted together
Bare copper wire connects to Green wire from timer

How to connect white wire to white wires that are twisted together.
a) Strip white timer wire so you have 1-1/2 " of bare wire. Stranded wire will wrap around other wires easily.
b) Remove wire nut. DO NOT UNTWIST wires.
c) Hold all whites together so bare copper lines up. Wrap stranded copper around the twisted wire.
d) Replace wire nut, or use larger wire nut. Twist real tight. Do not use tape. You can solder the connection.
e) When done, pull on white time wire to make sure it is held tight. Push whites back into box.

Sep 25, 2010 | UPM Programmable Wall Switch Timer

1 Answer

Front power switch broken. Bezel won't come off easily. Thought we could just get a switch and install on the back but don't know which of the colored pairs of wires go to the original switch in the...


I would suggest this generic Power On switch,

1) http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html,

and the Red, and Black twisted pair of wires go to the Power On switch.

Your statement of ,"....don't know which of the colored pairs of wires go.....", leads me to believe you may have all of the Front Panel wires disconnected.

How about information as to where ALL the Front Panel wires go?
(Provided I have correctly interpreted your statement)

Back in the time that the eMachines T2542 was made, TriGem was the motherboard manufacturer.

The Model Name of the motherboard is Imperial, and the Model Number of the motherboard, could have been one of four variations offered.

Model Name: Imperial
Model numbers could be G, GL, GV, or GLVE
(Imperial G, Imperial GL, Imperial GV, or Imperial GLVE)

ALL four variations used the same Front Panel header.
(The connector on the motherboard the Front Panel wires connect to, is named the Front Panel header)

I would like you to view this page,

http://www.e4allupgraders.info/dir1/ecase/support/front_panel_header_support.shtml

Scroll down to the heading -
Trigem Imperial Front Panel Header Pinout.

A) Pins 1, 2, and 3 are for the Power On LED light.

B) Pins 5 and 6 are for the HarDDrive activity LED light.
(Pin 4 is not used. NC. No Connection)

C) Pins 7 and 8 are for the Power On switch

D) I wouldn't connect any wires to Pins 9 and 10, nor Pins 11 and 12

E) Pins 14 and 15 are for the Reset switch. (The button you press to restart your computer.
If the T2542 doesn't have a Reset switch, don't worry about it. There are many other ways to restart your computer)

F) Pins 17 18, and 20 are for an internal speaker.
This speaker is used for BIOS Beep Codes.

In the chart to the right, you will see GRD used many times.
GRD stands for Ground.
ANY Black wire in the twisted pair of wires, is a Ground wire.

Most of the eMachines I have worked on, use a Red, and Black pair of twisted wires for the Power On switch.
I could be mistaken on the T2542.

Best method, is to follow the color code of the wires that come from Pins 7 and 8, and be sure.

Aug 17, 2010 | E-Machines T2542 PC Desktop

1 Answer

Compaq Presario SR1620NX Desktop won't turn on


I may state too detailed, and over simplify in my solution.
This is not to insult your intelligence, but an endeavor to explain thoroughly.

To bypass the Power On switch, one uses a jumper wire to jump the Soft Power On wire, to ANY Ground wire.

The Soft Power On wire has Green insulation, and is located in the 24-pin ATX main power cable.
ANY wire that has Black insulation is a Ground wire.

To explain:

This is HP Support, and the Motherboard Specifications page, for the Compaq Presario SR1610NX desktop computer,

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00378480&tmp_task=prodinfoCategory&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&lang=en&product=1127350

I would like you to scroll down the page, until you come to the motherboard illustration.
(Under the - Motherboard layout and photos - heading)

This illustration represents the motherboard from a top view, and with no hardware components installed.
(No Processor, Ram Memory modules, power cables from Power Supply plugged in, and so on)

At the top right of the motherboard is a small rectangle, with an inscription in it.
(The tiny printing reads - SMSC with LPC47M997NR under it)

Immediately below this small rectangle, is the 24-pin ATX main power cable connector.
Two vertical rows of 12 socket holes.
(Next to it is printed - ATX 1)

Now here is a much better view of a 24-pin ATX main power cable, and the corresponding connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

The photo to the far left, shows a better view of the 24-pin ATX main power cable connector, on the motherboard.
(Yours may be an opaque whitish plastic. It also will not be located on the outside edge of the motherboard)

The photo in the middle, shows the 24-pin ATX main power cable not plugged in.

The photo all the way to the right, shows the 24-pin ATX main power cable plugged in, and shows the Green Soft Power On wire.
Also shows the Black ground wires.

The 24-pin ATX main power cable is left plugged into the motherboard.

Looking at the middle photo once more, note how the power wires come into the connector.
This is the Back of the connector.

Each wire ends in a metal terminal.
The metal terminal is approximately 1/2 inch in length.
This means the power wire goes down in the connector pretty deep, before it ends in the metal terminal at the Front of the connector.

I use a wire that is approximately the same size, (Gauge), as the power wires, for the jumper wire.
Strip around 1/2 inch of insulation, from each end of the jumper wire, then twist the wire ends.

The jumper wire should be around 3 inches in length, and bent into a U-shape.

Power supply unplugged from power, insert one end of the jumper wire into the socket hole that contains the Green wire.
(Soft Power On wire)

The jumper wire end is stuffed down into the socket hole with the Green wire, right next to the Green wire. You are pushing the bare stripped end past the insulation of the Green wire, with the intent of touching the metal terminal end.

Insure that the stripped bare wire, is touching the metal terminal end, as best as you can.
The stripped end may have to be longer than 1/2 inch.

(An alternate form of jumper wire is a paper clip straightened out, then bent into a U-shape, with wraps of tape in the middle for insulation. I have used this method also. I just don't recommend it for solutions)

Power supply plugged back into power:

With the one end stuffed down into the socket hole for the Green wire, hold the jumper wire by the insulation, and touch the other end down into ANY socket hole that has a Black wire. (Ground)

Warning!
There may be a spark. You may wish to wear a glove on the hand for the jumper wire.
The voltage is 5 Volts (DC)

Two common flashlight batteries are 3 Volts. (DC. Each battery produces 1.5 Volts)

To me it isn't a big deal if there is a little spark. Wanted to advise you beforehand, so that you would be aware, though.

The Power On button that you push is made of plastic. Located inside it is the Power On switch.
With finesse the Power On switch can be removed, and a new one inserted.

(I use a hair dyer on low heat setting, and move the hair dryer back, and forth to gently soften the plastic, so that tabs can be eased to one side, and the Power on switch removed.

The Power On button/switch assembly can also be lowered, {Removed from computer}, into a bowl of very, very warm water, to soften the plastic Power On button. The switch will be removed, and thrown away. The plastic Power On button is then dried, and readied for the new Power on switch)

(Barring the worst case scenario, if a correct Power On switch cannot be obtained, a Power On switch can be used by itself, and would just hang outside of the computer. Not very aesthetically appealing, or professional, but the computer will work again)

I have found that this generic Power On switch, seems to be a correct substitute for most computers,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

Ebay may have one in Computers and Networking>Computer Components.

Older computers, used a different method to turn the Power Supply on.
(PSU - Power Supply Unit)

The Power On button pushed against a long metal rod, which in turn pushed against a Power On switch, located in the Power Supply.

The Power Supply in your computer always has a constant 5 Volt standby power, when the Power Supply is plugged into power.

When the Power On button is pushed, it pushes against the Power On switch.
Inside the switch is a convex shaped thin disk of metal.

The 'plunger' of the switch, pushes against the middle of the convex metal disk.

The outside edges of the disk are connected to Ground.
When the convex disk flattens, the middle touches a Positive connection.

This contact is Momentary.
The Power On switch is a Momentary Contact Switch.
When you let go of the Power On button, the disk resumes it's convex shape, and the brief connection is broken.

The Power On switch wires connect to pins on the motherboard.
The area the pins are in, is the Front Panel header.
(A connector on a motherboard is referred to as a Header. The plastic piece on the front of a computer is a Front Panel. Sometimes referred to as a Front Bezel)

To remove the Front Panel to your computer, far enough to easily access removing the Power On switch, the Power On switch wires will have to be disconnected from the Front Panel header, on the motherboard.

So will all the wires leading from the Front Panel, to the Front Panel header on the motherboard.

Looking back at the motherboard illustration, the Front Panel header is located on the very bottom right of the motherboard.

JFP1
(Junction Front Panel 1)

You will note that there are two rows of pins.
Four across the top row, five across the bottom row.

BEFORE (Not shouting) you attempt to remove the Front Panel, it would behoove you to make a drawing, and notes as to where those wires go.
If wires come loose, I don't have a way at present to tell you where they go.

It has been a while since I have worked on this series of Compaq Presario's. The wires from the Front Panel may just end in a single connector, that you simply line up with the corresponding pins on the motherboard, and plug the connector in. (On?)

The connector is oriented, by the pin in the Front Panel header that is missing.
Four pins across the top, with one missing.
Five pins across the bottom.
The connector will also have one hole blocked off, to match the pin layout of the Front Panel header.

The other wires from the Front Panel though, may not end in a single connector.
These headers are for the audio connections on the Front Panel, USB ports, and so on.

I'll await your diagnoses to see if a new Power On switch is required, or a new Power Supply.
If it is a new Power Supply that is required, I will give recommendations, and why, if you wish.

Should you have any questions, I will try to reply as speedily as possible.

May 23, 2010 | HP Compaq Presario SR1620NX...

1 Answer

S5100NX PC Desktop Problem When I push the power button it feel's soft. No response from the computer at all. Is it possible to replace this switch?


It's possible that the spring that makes the button "firm" may have popped out. Take off the front cover and look for it. It's easy to put back in. While you have the front cover off, push the little (usually black) start button to see if the computer starts.
If the switch is not repairable, your best bet is probably to find a Used Computer store/repair shop. They should only charge a nominal fee, if anything. Computer booths at flea markets are good places to look for stuff like that too.

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Broken wire from wire housing to top control panel of AC Unit


bad stuff dude, you are going to pay about the same for the part as the unit, unless you learn to bypass that and put it on a light switch, black wire to fan and black wire to compressor on one side of the light switch on the other side the "hot" wire bringing power in, best of luck

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1 Answer

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I have an iQue 3600 apart right now. One of my screen wires has come off the board. There are two large solder pads to the left of the left-most white push button. Red wire goes to the left solder pad; black wire to the right one. You need to strip a little insulation from the wires and solder them back on. If you have not soldered before, find someone to do it for you!

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1 Answer

Front Power switch wire is broken


As long as the rating is the same as the power supply you should have no problems
Make sure to check your wiring and all the connections are correct or you could have one expensive paper weight.

Dec 29, 2008 | E-Machines T2893 PC Desktop

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