Question about Viking VIPR101 Kitchen Hood

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Viking downdraft ventilator electrical problem.

I have a Viking VIPR101 domndraft ventilator that has completely stopped working. Blower and lifting motor are both inoperable. I have checked that there is power to the unit, and it is not obstructed in any way. This would appear to be a blown fuse or circuit breaker inside the unit. Where is the fuse and how do you access it??

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  • Anonymous Jun 15, 2008

    Same problem - over $700 to fix (ie. replace) mine. Rip off big time.

  • Anonymous Oct 28, 2008

    viking is a ripe off big time, I had the same problem the switch is broken and the whole piec needs to be replaced $600, no way will I give viking any more of my money they do not stand behind there products.

  • clajmes1 Apr 20, 2009

    I have the 6" VIPR161 downdraft and similar situation.  Actually hasn't worked since before Christmas, but I hardly ever us it so I put off having it repaired.  I practically fainted when I heard how much it was going to cost: Part: $666 + tax another $47.  Labor $89.  I paid $647.00 for the downdraft five years ago.  Absolutely ridiculous.  When one part costs more than the entire unit, something is seriously wrong.  I will never buy or recommend another Viking product.  

  • Anonymous May 07, 2009

    uuuggghhhh, the same thing happened to mine two days ago

  • Viki Aug 29, 2013

    I have a VIPR162RSS control on the top, replaced it two years ago. Guess what doesn't work any more.

  • Viki Aug 29, 2013

    I have VIPR162RSS, replaced the switch control on top under warranty.

  • Viki Aug 29, 2013

    Guess what two years later, it doesn't work anymore. So much for a Viking product :((


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I just took mine a part due to the same problem. I am an EE, so I have some experience in this matter. The problem was indeed the membrane ON/OFF switch. This switch is basically just stuck on the panel like a sticker. You can literally just pull it off and stick it back on. Underneath it is 3 metal "buttons". When you press it, one of these buttons presses on a flex circuit to complete continuity. This send AC line current down to the lift motor under the gear box cover. The lift motor starts moving. After it starts, a cam hits a relay switch, which completes the circuit thru the relay. This is what keeps the vent moving up after you let go of the On/Off Switch.

At first, I through I could just clean the switch up. I figured crud got down in there. But it did not work. I looked at the switch under a microscope, and the problem is the flex circuit was actually burned thru. This is usually caused by a weak spot in the flex combined with too much current. My best guess is this switch is undersized for this application. The switch will also allow current to flow even when the relay takes over, based on how it is wired. I'm not sure I like this, as if one tends to hold the button is all the way up or down, then that just more current thru the switch for a longer time which means more heat and better change of burning thru. Of course if the switch was better quality or design, it wouldn't matter in he first place.

Anyway, I'm going to take the switch to my lab and try and put a jumper wire across the burned area. This probably will not work or it will just burn in another place in the future. So I'll probably have to get another switch. The problem will be finding a good looking one. All one needs is a Single Pole Momentarily ON switch for the application. From it, run the 2 wires the control board connector (polarity does not matter). It is all pretty apparent once you take the top cover of the vent off (4 screws, 2 each side). The cable that runs from the control pad to the unit below uses a S-Video type connector and is keyed, so you can't get it back on incorrectly. Total cost in parts will be very minimal

For you DIY, remember there is AC voltage levels running thru this switch. Make sure YOU TURN POWER OFF when working on it and know what you are doing. You can get shocked.


Posted on Jan 31, 2010

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  • ShortthePig Mar 27, 2010

    Further update:

    Well I fixed my downdraft this week. I ended up using a switch I got from Digikey (online). Digikey P/N CKN1657-ND. ( Mfg and mfg P/N is: C&K P/N 8531J81ZQE22). The nice thing is, it is a very nice looking, low profile, black switch. The bad thing is it requires a square (0.5" x 0.6") mounting hole. Square holes are harder to make of course. I marked my square hole, drilled some small holes at the corners, and used a dremel cutoff wheel to make the hole. I then cleaned it up with a file.

    From the switch you run 2 wires to the 2 pin header on the board (where the flex cable used to go). I have a lab where I had a mate connector to the header and pins and a crimper to make a connection. But you may be able to find the connector with pins and wires already done and just solder the wires to your switch. The 2 pin head is a VERY common connection type and would cost a few dollars (maybe Digikey P/N AE9884-ND and cut off one end). Or, you could just solder your wires directly to the connector.

    Hope that helps. Not the easiest fix, but total cost to me was $6.26 for the switch. The rest of the stuff I had laying around.


  • ShortthePig Jun 23, 2010

    Mark and Karen,

    Good find. That is the part. I looked it up and it is also available from for about $50. The replacement switch will be easy to hook up since you just stick it on and connect it up. The down side is that it is way overpriced and WILL burn thru again.

    Now the big question: why is the Viking repair not using it and instead replacing the whole top half of the unit?


  • HeineJeffrey Sep 13, 2011

    I agree with Mark. I did find the part at All Viking Part PV3000182

    Thanks Jeff

  • Dan McCarthy
    Dan McCarthy Jan 27, 2014

    My motor is humming briefly so I don't believe the switch is bad. It seems to me that whatever is supposed to activate the vent raising is the issue. The gear motor cover looks like it can be taken off, but is there anything I there that I can look at to help troubleshoot.


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We had the same problem and read the responses above. We did not want to spend $700 so we contacted the Viking Authorized Parts retailer in our area (Call Viking and they will give you the number). In Dallas, the retailer's number is 866-778-1122. You want part number PV300182 (for model number VIPR161SS) and our price was $43.20 plus shipping. This is the replacement switch on the top side of the ventilation unit. Very easy replacement that takes around 30 minutes and doesn't require much expertise. The part plugs in. No wiring.

A note: The switch tends to wear out quickly if you keep your finger on the switch as the unit rises and the button then remove your finger.

Mark and Karen

Posted on Jun 23, 2010

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  • Smitherswow Oct 30, 2011

    Please explain how you replaced it.

  • Jack Tang Dec 03, 2012

    Hi, same problem here and just ordered the part, but could you explain how it is replaced? It seems that you have to hold the downdraft up to remove the top control panel. Then if I remove the top panel, the rest of the downdraft might just "drop" into the countertop and might be hard to fish out again. Any tricks to removing the control panel itself so the switch can be replaced? Thanks!

  • Michael Sacco
    Michael Sacco Jun 05, 2015

    please give us detail on this repair.


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After replacing the Viking switch several times at $60 a pop, I had to do something different. Terrible design flaw.

I read Mark's comments above about using a "Single Pole Momentarily ON switch".

I used this one $6 from amazon and installed it today - and it works very well!

I removed the existing membrane switch. When you unplug it, there are two "wires" or connectors sticking out. I soldered and shrink wrapped wires to those connectors. Then I connected the wires to the newly purchased switch.

I then drilled a 1/2 in hole on the side of the vent hood where the original membrane switch is stuck on. It looks great, looks original, and it works for very little money.

Thanks to Mark for his advice. Good luck, this is very easy.

Posted on Apr 17, 2014

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Thanks for the advice on the switch. I ordered based on the above recommendations and fixed it in 15 minutes and $50!

Posted on Oct 30, 2012

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Thanks to this thread, I was able to replace the switch. and now I have power. With the on/off button, nothing happens, but I can hear a "buzz" in the downdraft. Also, the "Filter Reset" light intermittently now comes on, and I have to just press it to turn the light off.

I assume I need to replace the motor now, but I would like to confirm first.

Posted on Nov 04, 2015

I just had a repair guy over for the same problem. He ran several tests and came to the conclusion that it was the control pad to the downdraft that was malfunctioning. The On/Off wasn't working.

Unfortunately, you can't just replace the on/off button. You have to replace the entire top piece of the the vent - not surprising. My repair guy told me that Viking said this is a common problem.

The cost of the top panel for the vent and labor is over $500. I am not a happy camper.

Posted on Mar 19, 2008

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