Remove the tomtom from the power source get a small paper clip and on the underside of the tomtom you will see a small pin hole it syas resetthe hole is where it looks like a sd card or something goes (but nothing goes there)
push that little reset button (in the hole) with the paper clip
hold it down for atleast 3 secs
then power the unit on give it a second itl be fine
remeber this happens a lot so keep that paper clip handy i keep it in my car all the time
hope i helped you
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If you are looking to connect this radio at home, you will first need some kind of 12V DC power supply with an operating range anywhere between 9-16V. You can purchase these online or at most electronics retailers (Radio Shack, Fry's Electronics, etc.). Simply connect the constant memory power wire (yellow) and switched accessory power wire (red) from the Pioneer's wiring harness to the "+" terminal on the power supply and the ground (black) wire of the Pioneer to the "-" terminal on the power supply. Make sure to have at least one speaker connected to the speaker output leads of the Pioneer for sound. The speaker connections are as follows: Front Left + (white) FL - (white/black stripe), F Right + (gray) FR - (gray/black), Rear L + (green) RL - (green/black) RR + (violet) RR - (violet/black). And that's it! Sound at home with your Pioneer radio! I hope this information was helpful.
5" x 7" Doors
Left Front (+)
Left Front (-)
Right Front (+)
Right Front (-)
5" x 7" Side Panels
Left Rear (+)
Left Rear (-)
Right Rear (+)
Right Rear (-)
You can not connect this to an A/C voltage. The radio will not work. In fact it will destroy many internal parts. It must have a D/C voltage supply of about 14.4 volts.That is what it was designed for.
But if you like smoke and fire, it could be fun to watch (just kidding).
Seriously now, what you need is a D/C power supply that is rated for about 10 amps.
The accessory and remote wire does not need to be connected to anything if you are using it in your home. But it does need to be insulated from contacting anything conductive.
The negative ground wire (black) need to be connected to the negative (black) terminal of a power supply. the yellow and red wires are for the positive (red) terminal of the power supply. Then you just need the speakers to be connected and the antenna plugged in. You can use an old car antenna that still has the cord and jack connected to it for the antenna. The speaker wires are color coded in pairs, white and grey are front and the green and violet are rear speakers. The wire with the black stripe is the negative speaker wire and the solid color is the positive.
I hope this was helpful to you, and if it was a good rating like"fixya" is a great way for you to say thanks for the free advice.
Would you be aware if there is a pre-installed external amplifier attached to the old head unit?
If yes, the speakers are connected to the amp and not to the new CD player. There should be a pair of shielded wire with RCA male connectors that should go to the head unit and the other ends would be attached to the amplifier. Additionally, there is a trigger wire from the head unit that switches the power of the amplifier to ON aside from the power B+12 and GND.
If no, on the Ford pls verify that: Green/Yellow - always on B+12VDC (positive battery terminal) Yellow/Black - switchable +12 (ACC terminal of your IGN switch) Black/Light Green - chassis ground Orange/Blue - remote trigger on for power antenna or external amplifier(s) Light Blue/Red - park light
Speakers Orange/Light Green LF+ Light Blue/White LF- White/Light Green RF+ Dark Green/Red RF -
Pink/Light Green LR+ Dark Blue/Orange LR- Pink/Light Blue RR+ Light Brown/Red RR- (R-right, L-left, F-front,RR-right rear)
On the head unit, often, the yellow normally goes to the always on B+12 such as the + terminal of the battery, the red to a switched B+ such as the ACC of the IGN switch and of course the black to the chassis/ground.
Hope this be of help/idea. Pls post back how things turned out or should you need additional information.
The only way to be completely sure that the problem does not exist in the power cabling is to run BRAND NEW power straight to the battery and/or ignition cct on the cars fuse block. This then ensures that you have solid power supply If you have checked the wiring and are completely confident that it is ok, then it is possible that the unit has dry solder joints. Power switching is done by devices mounted to the chassis of the unit and they often dry joint as a result of the heating and cooling cycle of operation. You could check this too by disassembling the unit and looking for failed solder joints and repair. Good Luck. :) Happy to chat more about it if you wish :)
get a volt meter or a test light and check which wires from the car are constant 12v and which are switched with the ignition. I think that usually the red is constant 12v and yellow is switched. You might want to try switching the two and see if that helps.
it sounds like you have an externally amplified system and the amplifier remote switching wire is connected to the electric aerial output which is a blue wire and it should be connected to the amp remote wire which is a blue with a white trace