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Re: Hot water doesn't come in only cold
Before you replace the contol i suggest you shut off the hot water going to the unit and remove the hose from the machine end.. inside the water inlet valve there is a small filter screen it may be clogged...try that first then if that is ok we can move on to checking the controls..let me know
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This video will show you how to find that leak on any front
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G'day, simple solutions is to swop your hoses at the back around, you can do this at the taps...
If you only have one hose going into machine, you need to make sure the hose is on the cold water. Some new machines heat water internally, hence they don't need hot water going in at all.
Sounds like you are putting hot water only into your machine.
If you only have a hot water tap in your laundry for washing machine, this cold be a problem as the machines don't cool down the water. If this is the case you might have to look at other plumbing solutions...
Hope this helps, let us know how u get on
Turn off the water to the machine. Disconnect the cold water hose from the back of the machine and put it in a large bucket. Turn on the water to see if you get full-pressure cold water from the hose. If not, the shut-off valve or other plumbing has a problem.
If you do get cold water from the hose, check the strainer inside the hose fitting on the back of the washer. Clean it if it is clogged. If you still don't get cold water in the machine, you have a problem with either the solenoid valve or the cold water fill contacts in the timer (the timer won't start until the tub is up to the selected level, but if the valve isn't opening or the supply line is otherwise blocked, the machine will never fill). Sometimes in this case you can hear the solenoid valve humming (normally the sound is masked by the running water).
If the problem is a clogged strainer, clean out the hot water strainer also.
I find I get better wash results with warm water (runs both hot and cold for the wash cycle). The soap is more active than in cold water, so I don't need quite so much, and the machine doesn't take as long to finish a cycle since it fills faster. Of course, the cold water has to be running to get the energy savings compared to hot only.
If you want to connect up a washing machine that uses hot and cold water but you only have a cold water supply (such as in a basement or garage) you can use a Y Piece connector to connect the hot and cold fill hoses to a single cold water supply (external link to 4Washerhelp spares). The washing machine will then work OK. Simply screw the Y-Piece onto the tap, and then screw the hot and cold fill hoses to the Y-piece and connect the other end of the fill hoses to the washing machine. (You may also be able to buy this part from a DIY store like B&Q) If you don't connect a water supply to the hot valve (and simply connect the cold water hose to the cold valve leaving the hot valve with nothing connected to it) then some wash programs may not work as some programmes only fill with hot water. However, some washing machines will work OK with only the cold fill hose connected. You can always try it and see. The worse that will happen is the washer could either stick on the odd wash programme or may abort on some. If you do this though it's possible for water to drip out of the hot valve on some machines during fill. It's best to use a y-piece if possible.
The fact that you have connected cold water to the hot valve is irrelevant, the washing machine will not know any different and will just heat the water up to the correct temperature. The washing machine may use slightly more electricity but if it's less than 10 years old it shouldn't be significant unless you use a lot of 60 or 90 degree washes. On 40 degree washes, manufacturers argue it's more efficient to fill with cold water only and slowly heat up the water to 40 degrees.
I think you will find that all washers are able to heat water. If they are hot and cold fill, they use the heater if the hot water supplied is not hot enough for the particular wash. If they are cold fill only then they need the heater for all non-cold washes.
If you purchase the washer you are thinking of and it is cold fill only, it will have only one inlet hose, the cold water one and it is a straight forward installation- hose from washer screw into cold supply tap.
If it is hot and cold fill you have a choice- either go to the expense of plumbing hot water to it OR purchase a 'Y' 'tap' adapter. The adapter screws onto the cold supply (by the 'bottom' of the Y) and the hot and cold hoses which go to the washer are screwed into the (top) 2 ends of the 'Y'. The washer opens its hot valve, gets the only water supply which is cold through what it thinks is the hot hose and heats it up accordingly. When it wants cold it opens its cold valve and gets the cold water through what it thinks is its cold hose- which it is!
I hope this clarifies the situation for you and if it has please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
The F20 error is a no water detected entering machine error and yes it is related to the hot water not being hooked up.
Newer washers sense and control the incoming water temperature. If you select cold wash and cold rinse you may think that it will not ask for hot water so you don't need it hooked up but you can't do that on this washer.
Even on a cold wash the temperature sensor will read the temperature of the incoming water. If your cold water is 60 degrees then the control will sense this and it may cycle the hot water on to bring the temperature up to 70 degrees.
Your machine probably has several temperature settings, right?
So-- when you set it for COLD-- it fills at the normal rate?
When you set it for WARM-- does only COLD water still only come in?
And if you set it for HOT-- Nothing comes in?-- correct?
Now lets get to the pipes in the back: Is there a Laundry sink, or a hose or something nearby, so you can be sure you have HOT water to the Washing Machine?-- Is the Hot water flowing good and strong nearby the WASHING MACHINE-- WHEN YOU TEST IT?
And the Valve is not shut at the Washing machine-- (Hot shut, but cold open?)
If you are sure that you have a good supply of HOT water to the machine,--- If you have tested that you actually have a good flow, -- say with the Hose removed, and you run the Hot water into the machine (by-passing the internal control valve!!)-- Then it sounds like: Either the control is not telling the internal solenoid valve to open-- or the valve needs to be replaced.
Do you want to attempt this repair-- or do you want to call for help at this point?
Let me know what you find-- and how far you want to go by yourself.
Why has nobody mentioned the fact that if you “draw off” hot water
using a tap beside the washing machine you can get “instant” hot water
to your hot-fill. I have been doing this for years – now that all my
hot water is heated by a crabon-neutral energy source (either wood or
solar) I feel it is even more energy efficient.
As for water consumption, my house has a secondary return pipe on the
hot water circuit with a temperature sensor fitted to the pump so that
it only switches on when you turn a hot water tap on – you than turn
the tap off, wait 5-10 minutes while the water circulates, then turn it
on again, by which time the hot water only has ashort distance to
travel and you don’t waster much down the drain.
However, I have been interested to read about the pros of cold fill
only, especially the arguments about such a small volume of water being
used anyway and the possibly improved wash performance? Also, I was
dismayed to read that washing machines with hot and cold fill don’t use
the hot wate very efficiently.
So would I be better off going for a hot and cold machine while they’re
still available or going for a high-efficiency cold fill only machine?
I am still minded to get an LG with hot and cold fill… comments please?
Make sure the hoses are connected correctly to the water valve on the machine. The connections will be marked with an "H" and a "C".
Given they are correct, most current washing machines have and auto temp feature on the water fill. It allows even cold water settings to bring in some hot water to make sure the water temp is hot enough to efficiently disolve your laundry detergant. The preset temps are usually around 75* for cold, and 105* for warm. Hot water comes in at whatever temp your household water temp is.