Brilliant Saved me £120 fee at fixation in london.
As a little more clarity:- the cover over screws is quite thin and there is a small hole (2mm diameter) in it: centre towards the front of the camera. If you insert the sharp object in that hole and gently lift and slide the cover off to reveal screws.... you will need mini phillips screw drivers as they are small screws....... took about 3 mins to fix.
I had the same problem and fixed it within a few minutes' time. I'd like to clarify the process a bit, however. To "free it at the front," it's best to insert small sharp object and LIFT a small amount. Then slide the thin metal plate backwards to reveal the four tiny screws. My 580 EX II now fires properly. Thanks very much!
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I just saw a picture of your Olympus and it is clear it isn't fitted with a flash but a variety of flashguns can be fitted to the hotshoe bracket.
A standard flashgun has a fixed flash and must be diffused or bounced if it needs to be toned down.
There are programmable flashes available but these are more suitable for manual cameras.
A model-specific computerised flashgun can communicate through multiple contacts of the hot shoe with a computerised camera and should provide the flash duration/intensity to suit the camera's settings.
Maybe your flash isn't fully compatible with the camera.
A sync cord between the camera and the flash is usually more reliable than the hot shoe. Before getting a cord though try cleaning the contact in the middle of the hot shoe and the contact on the bottom of the flash with an ink pen eraser. They are more aggressive than a pencil eraser but still won't hurt the metal contacts.
If you know basic soldering, Open the old hot shoe from base (4 screws).Note down the position of the wires. Try to fire the flash with shorting two trigger wires,most ly it will fire. If the springy contact is adjustable do it.If it is not repairable, you can get metal hot shoe from ebay easily. Caution: metal hot shoe will short circuit 4 TTL contacts (on digital camera) ,so you need to put cello tape at bottom of hot shoe with only center hole. Hope this solves.
Have you tried cleaning the hot shoe contact? If the contact is dirty it may not communicate with the camera. The "contact" Its the metal "circle" in the middle of the hot shoe. Using a pencil eraser, rub the contact gently until you create eraser crumbs, then gently rub the "circle" with a soft cloth. See if this fixes it.
Either the internal thyristor charging circuit has failed or the flash capacitor is unserviceable.
Neither fault is worth repairing. Buy a small auto-exposure flashgun and use it in the hotshoe; they're dirt cheap and there are plenty of used ones for free if you ask on FreeCycle.
You'll need to go into the DSC-V1 menus to enable the hot shoe on the top plate of the camera and you'll find that even the smallest and least specified flashgun will give better results, but try to get one with at least two aperture settings within the range f2.8 to f8. Anything outside that range is useless to you as that's the entire aperture range on the DSC-V1. You'll also need to ensure that when taking photos, the camera is set to the same aperture as the flashgun. To do this set the camera mode switch to "A" for aperture priority mode and use the thumbwheel to select the correct aperture, the camera will choose the appropriate shutter speed. You can also use "M" for manual mode in which you set both the aperture and choose the shutter speed. At night, choose 1/60 but the actual exposure will be measured in the thousandths of seconds in which the flash is illuminated.
If you're rich or lucky you'll get a Sony HVL-F32X flashgun; it dwarfs the camera and is very powerful but everything is fully automatic with no manual overrides. For this flashgun, the hotshoe menu setting must be "OFF".
Using Vivitar 3200A flash gun on a DSLR is risky for the following reason. The trigger voltage of a DSLR at flash hot shoe that takes it to its TTL (through the lens) circuit is less than 10 volts, it is about 6 to 8 volts in the recent DSLRs. The trigger voltage generated by Vivitar 3200A at full charge flashing is around 180 volts (max). That is a fatal dose for a sensitive DSLR TTL circuit. This high voltage flash gun will work endlessly, the only damage is to the TTL flash circuit. When you attach a TTL flash to the DSLR after using Vivitar 3200A for sometime, your TTL flash will not communicate with your camera. It will be just another ordinary flash without any auto functions. There is a Wein adapter that you can fix b/w your cameral hot shoe and the vivitar flash gun that is said to reduce the trigger voltage that passes into the camera. Try it if you get it. Without this gadget it is better not to use non recommended and non TTL flashes on latest DSLRs.